You can take it up with the shop manual
Which along with everyone else identifies them as Intake side and Exhaust side plugs
It might be on the exhaust side, but surely it fires on the compression stroke. Wouldn’t do anything on the exhaust stroke, would it?
If it worked like that, my truck would be running right now! 
And when did I say anything about the stroke it fires on? I said it has an extra set of spark plugs on the Exhaust side to clean up the emissions.
no. the air-fuel mixture either ignites or it doesn’t. dual spark plugs make sure it’s more likely to ignite. it can’t make it ignite “more.”
I mean, look at this video:
the entire combustion event is over in a fraction of a second. another spark plug firing later isn’t going to do shit.
Not sure if I’m disagreeing, adding a useful data point or just making noise here, but I guess I’ll point out that my motorcycle has two spark plugs per cylinder, and they don’t always fire at the same time.
No, it’s not that hard. The coils are on a rail above the spark plugs and you need to remove the coil rail on the passenger side to get to the #8 plug. Remove the coil rail using a 10mm box end wrench, ideally one with a ratchetting box end. Or just a regular 10mm and a lot of patience and scraped knuckles. Doing it by feel.
It is the coil rail nut on the very back that is the hard to get one. Once you get that out you just put it in your tool box and don’t put it back in. Every time after that will go easier.
The LS1 engines in these cars are actually very easy to work on. The problem is that the rear of the engine in the Firebird/Camaro is stuffed back under the firewall making access to the rear a real problem. The LS1 in the C5 Corvettes sit more toward the front and out in the open.
So, boys and girls, today’s issue is pre-cat oxygen sensors.
The BMW 530i is throwing a code for oxy sensors and the SES light is on. I have new OEMs in hand.
I can’t get the old sensors out to save my life. I’m using the special slotted socket (to get around the wires; it’s the socket recommended by BMW) and a big-ass ratchet breaker bar.
No dice. These things are freakin’ glued in.
Should these be my next steps?
-Douse the critters in WD40, let the car sit overnight, and heat up the engine shortly before trying to get them out again?
-If still can’t get out, have a mechanic blowtorch 'em and do their magic. (A torch in my hands would be extremely dangerous, I draw the line at this procedure 
).
Don’t use WD40, that isn’t what it is made for. Go get a can of PB &Blaster.
Will do, do I leave it on overnite?
I have a 2002 Honda Accord that needs a new lug stud because I boogered it up while changing the brakes. I can replace it one of two ways: the super-cheaty grind the side down method, or pay someone to replace it and the wheel bearing that will get screwed up as they pull the hub assembly.
Or, maybe, there’s a third way. Can I just pull the hub out a few inches without screwing everything up, put the new stud in, and simply push it back? Is that even possible?
Anyway, I hate that Honda made it so that a $1 stud will cost $150-200 to fix it properly.
Whiskey Dickens, the GM smaller cars like the 70’s Chevy Monza (not the Corvair one, these were based loosely on the Vega) had to do that when they stuffed a V8 in there, the steering shaft was so close to the rear plug on the driver’s side that you could sometimes not even get the boot off the plug without pulling the left side engine mount. If they had only used the engine mounts from 60’s they could have made it better, as the older mounts disconnected on their own.
You might need to get that exhaust good and hot to get those O2 sensors out, but that is always a suck job.
I quit changing them long ago. They are expensive and fail with depressing regularity.
But, yeah. Try the PB Blaster route first.
we never bothered using the special O2 sensor sockets to remove the old ones. the “slot” in the socket for the wire to pass through means the socket will spread under any reasonable amount of torque. we would hit it with rust penetrant (PB blaster is a good one,) cut the wires off of the old sensor, and remove it with a 6-pt box end wrench or 6-pt deep socket. use the special socket to install the new one, of course.
I mean, if the sensor is no good, cutting the wires isn’t going to make it worse