After more than half a century in business, the iconic Hilltop Steak House, with its hundred foot tall illuminated cactus, is closing its doors. I can’t believe it.
This place really is a landmark, with excellent food and its Wild West-themed rooms. Outside on the lawn is a herd of fiberglas cows (one of which was stolen and found its way to the top of the Great Dome at MIT. It’s still in the MIT Museum). They dressed the cows for special occasions. It’s a sign of the times that they’re not now sporting their pointed black hats for Halloween – the restaurant will be closed before then.
Route 1 north of Boston, especially where it passes through Saugus, is a bastion of 1950s-style tackiness. When Pepper Mill first came up to visit, I drove her past the miniature golf course with the orange T Rex with fluorescent green eyes, Weylu’s Chinese Palace on a hilltop, Kowloon’s Chinese restaurant in the shape of a giant Polynesian thatched hut, the Sake Japanese restaurant, Prince Pizzeria with its Leaning Tower of Pisa, The Ship Restaurant, in the shape of a rigged sailing ship, the next-door Christmas Tree Shop built to look like the New England Fishing Village it docked at, the Full of Bull roast beef place ---- and the Hilltop.
Frank Giuffrida’s place started as a butcher shop, and the Hilltop continued to operate the butcher shop behind the restaurant. The entire store was refrigeratede – you had to wear a coat or a sweater in there. His restaurant grew over the years into a two-story center portion and two wings, each section named after some Western locale, so the wairess would yell “two for Dodge City” when your turn came.
And you DID have to wait. There were lines outside the building until very recently. The outside walkway where the line formed was enclosed many years ago, so you could wait in relative comfort if it was raining or cold outside. One reason I didn’t go more often was that wait, every day of the week.
But food habits change, and the Hilltop’s clientele has been going elsewhere or dying off. Route One has always had other restaurants, including other steak houses, but something has been eating into the business. Recent reviews have been complaining about the quality, as if they’re skimping to make ends meet. And they’ve been having more Special Events to pull people in. I’m surprised how fast it has fallen.
Giuffrida’s name is on the local YMCA, to which he was a big donor.
We’ll have to go sometime soon. if nothing else, this news will undoubtedly bring back the crowds until the Oct 20 closing (some places say the 21st) for one last dinner.
I assume they’ll tear it down. I can’t see anyone else making a go of a huge restaurant here. And it would be a shame to have it sitting empty and decaying.