A what in the WHAT now?
By the way, my first thought when I reached the end of your checklist was, “Great. Now I hafta pee.”
If I had to wear all that, I might add “adult diaper” to the beginning of the list!
You brought back memories of watching people skiing topless/bikini tops over Spring Break, when it was baaaaaaaarely cold enough to maintain some snow, and conditions were slushy as hell.
Judging from the screams when they fell, even semi-thawed slush is still damn cold on bare skin. 
Which means there is a thinner one and a thicker one, maybe even a super-duper thick one. So, four sizes of codpieces. How would you ever choose?
I keep track by charting ambient temperature and windchill. Think of it as driving down the highway with your hand out the window on a nice winter day. If you are just idling along on the shoulder a thin glove will keep your hand warm, but you will need a thicker glove if you are travelling at highway speed. The same applies to skiing. The problem is that if you wear too thick a glove your hand will overheat and sweat, but that moisture will conduct heat away from your hand, making the glove worse than useless as it increases heat loss.
You brought back memories of watching people skiing topless/bikini tops over Spring Break, when it was baaaaaaaarely cold enough to maintain some snow, and conditions were slushy as hell.
Judging from the screams when they fell, even semi-thawed slush is still damn cold on bare skin. 
[/quote]
The folks in that group would enjoy that. The were Outdoor Leadership university students who enjoyed mentally and physically working their way together through adverse challenges.
Any advantage to wearing a mining style helmet or those LED headlamps? Might help a little.
Never gone telemark skiing in Canada or anywhere. But if you like deep powder than Northern Japan is really great, cheap and easy to get to from Tokyo.
Holly Blefgen, the Doyenne of Canadian telemark skiing, was promoting telemark skiing to people in Japan and Japanese powder to Canadian telemarkers starting in either the late 80’s or early 90’s – I can’t recall which.
Unfortunately, I managed to harm Canada-Japanese telemark relations in ’96 at the Worlds. There was a bit of a juggling act to find appropriate accommodations for all the volunteers and all the teams. The Japanese team were placed in a truly lovey large two story chalet. The there was a writer from Powder Magazine whom the organizers wanted to bunk with me, so unbeknownst to me they bumped the Japanese team to another chalet. The Japanese team quite rightly raised holy hell about being disturbed like that.
A couple of days later I made matters worse when in one of the races I botched a jump landing and went off course into a jump landing judge who happened to be from Japan. I screamed a warning when I bounced but she didn’t have chance. The Japanese team registered a formal complaint against me alleging that I had deliberately run her over. The complaint was rightly dismissed based on it being more likely that I was incompetent rather than malicious. I’m just very thankful that she was not injured.
“Any advantage to wearing a mining style helmet or those LED headlamps? Might help a little.”
I suppose you could bolt a couple of 100,000,000 luman LED lights to your helmet and shove some batteries inside your clothes (just hope that you don’t fall head first and that a battery doesn’t leak or explode), but it makes more sense for the hill operator to install floodlights.
For cross-country skiing pick the trails that have streetlamps. If there is no illuminated night skiing in the area, go out on non-cloudy nights, for once you get used to the dark, the starlight will be enough to keep you from running into trees, but the bright stars and the universe above you is so beautiful that you will look up – and run into trees. 
If there is tree cover above the trail a head mounted LED can help a lot and it doesn’t have to be that bright.
“If there is tree cover above the trail a head mounted LED can help a lot and it doesn’t have to be that bright.”
Exactly. And while floodlights are great, you were on a “poorly lit pitch”. I went camping a lot when young and could see “a thousand shades of black” in the woods by moonlight. But I don’t know if I still could. I know my dog can.
Still, you’re right about the clothes, and especially the socks. I was once part of a military study on cold weather exposure. We proved soldiers could remain warm and have good dexterity in their hands without gloves or warm clothing - by applying warmth to only seven small but important areas of the body.
I have occasionally thought that I should give seminars on winter-walking - as Muffin has explained, winter exercise isn’t all that straightforward. One of the things that would probably surprise most people is how underdressed you should be. I use a headband rather than a toque because I overheat with my whole head covered, but all my winter parkas (of three different levels of heaviness) all have hoods.
The same with my gloves - I use knitted gloves instead of mittens because my hands overheat. If my fingers are getting chilly, I pull them into the main part of the gloves and tuck my hands inside my long sleeves.
I don’t use heavy winter boots - I always wear hikers with some breathability for the same reason - overheating feet. My socks are just plain polycotton sweatsocks.
If you’re experienced with being outside in seriously cold temperatures, you know the difference between, “My fingers are getting chilly,” and, “Okay, sticking my hands in my armpits now because I’m in danger of frostbite,” or, “My scarf is around my neck should I need it” and, “Covering my face now because my nose and cheeks are freezing.” Because I walk in a city, I plan my routes when it is really cold so I can go inside a store and warm up if I really need it (this doesn’t happen often at all - only with EXTREME windchills).
Well, let’s throw a monkey wrench out there:
My job requires me to 1.) be outside, and 2.) count money on the spot.
So far, fingerless gloves have done the trick - albeit with very chilled fingertips.
Anyone got any better ideas?
Sounds like you need mitten-gloves. Uncover your fingers for counting money, cover them up again when you don’t.
Or pockets. Pockets that let your hands get close to your body core when you aren’t actually counting money.
Mitten-gloves, as has been suggested; and/or silk glove liners under heavier fingerless gloves. Silk liners are thin enough that it’s possible to do precision stuff in them, while still holding significant warmth.
Yes, my parka has a hood, but if I’m doing any exercise, I just wear ear-muffs, and leave the hood down. I use thin leather driving gloves, with no lining, or minimal lining. If my hands get cold I put them in my pockets. And I wear thin wool socks in walking shoes. My shoes do have a thick sole, though, to protect me from the cold of the ground.
I also leave the parka partly unzipped if I start to get warm. The worst thing is to get hot and sweaty – then it’s hard to warm up again if you cool off.
And you could have those hot pocket things in your pockets.
I’ve had to work with my fingers exposed in -20 and below replacing tiny screws on a waveguide. I placed hand warmers on the inside of my wrists secured by the cuffs of my winter coat and that was enough to keep my finger tips warm enough to get the job done and also for longer periods with only mechanic’s gloves on.
Is there still a tiki bar in Muskegon?
[quote=“purplehorseshoe, post:251, topic:928663, full:true”]
My job requires me to 1.) be outside, and 2.) count money on the spot.[/quote]
Get gloves that have the pads of the thumb and index finger coated with silicone. This type of glove was created for using touch screens. For example, https://arcteryx.com/ca/en/shop/gothic-glove
The silicone will be a bit grippy – not unlike dishwashing gloves, so you can count money easily.
Take care that the thumb and index pads are coated with silicone rather than woven with a conductive thread, for if the latter, they will not be grippy.
They can be found in various thicknesses from various manufacturers, from very thin glove liners to typical winter gloves.
Good winter parkas will have large, deep side pockets where you can keep your hands warm when you are not using them. At post 224 in this thread I set out a link for Baffin Polar Mitts that are a lined leather outer mitten and a thick fleece inner mitt. For the coldest of days, layer by wearing light liner, fleece liner, outer shell. For cold but not brutal days wear the outer shell. For not quite warm days, wear the light liner.
The leather shells are on lanyards, so when you take a shell off it will dangle rather than fall to the ground. If it is busy, just stuff your liner wearing hands in your pockets and let the mittens dangle. To avoid entanglement that could result in you being dragged, the lanyards are only lightly stitched in place, so don’t pull hard when you take off a glove.
Insulation only works well when it its dry, so air out your gloves, socks and other clothes whenever you have an opportunity, and do not over-dress to the point of perspiring.
Glove is a generic term for both mittens and gloves. The Arcteryx gloves are finger gloves, The Baffin Polar Mitts are double mittens with an inner mitt and and outer mitt.
For the same materials, mittens will be warmer than finger gloves because they keep skin against skin.