The Traveler Returns, or I Know What It Means to Miss New Orleans

Well, New Orleans was quite an experience. My friend David has a lovely two-story 1835 house on Ursulines Street, between Bourbon and Royal, right in the heart of the French Quarter. He’s lived there off and on since college, so he knows every inch of the town and we did things and went places most people don’t know about (alleyway bookshops, out-of-the-way restaurants). Gorgeous town, I love decaying old ruins [feel free to insert joke here]. Did the usual tourist stuff, of course: Garden District, cemeteries, a few historic house tours. The wax museum is hilarious: department-store mannequins in dramatic poses. One vignette presents Sarah Bernhardt, Enrico Caruso and John Wilkes Booth all performing for Jenny Lind. The Divine Sarah is curtseying and her head is hanging on by a thread, to Jenny Lind’s evident amusement. I think really bad wax museums are so much more enjoyable than really good ones.

New Orleans is a very gay town—at least the Quarter is—so we went to drag bingo and a gay strip joint (it was very hard finding someplace to tuck a dollar bill!). Had dinner with some friends of David’s, and to a loft party, where I met the drummer for my favorite local group, the New Leviathan Oriental Foxtrot Orchestra! Also chatted with a teenage go-go boy and a lesbian circus dwarf. David happily agrees that at least 50 percent of a vacation should be spent lying there like a lox, so we did sit up in bed and eat ice cream from martini glasses while watching tapes of Sex in the City.

I also managed to attract the only cute heterosexual man in the Quarter, which locals agreed was quite an accomplishment. David and I happened to be passing Harrah’s, and as neither of us has ever been in a casino, we decided to stop in for a look-see. David said, ‘cute guy at 11:00, checking you out.’ I zeroed in like a heat-seeking missile. He was indeed cute: a PR guy for a medical firm, he was at a Spinal Injuries Convention across the street. We got on like a house afire, but he was leaving the next day (at least, that was his story and he was sticking to it). He said he’d call me when he’s on one of his occasional New York business trips. I might be able to help him place a story in my magazine, so it’s in his best interests to call even if it’s just for business reasons . . . Though I got the distinct impression he’s up for some social fun, too.

The trip ended on an exciting note . . . Friday I woke at 3:30 a.m. when someone bumped into the bed and grabbed my leg for balance—David on the way to the bathroom, I thought. Then I saw him climb out the window and down the balcony. Oop! I waited till he was gone and woke David up—he’d gotten my pocketbook and David’s briefcase. The police arrived four hours later (‘busy night’) and of course there’s not a thing they can do, though a little sympathy and shoulder-patting wouldn’t have come amiss. Thank goodness I had my plane tickets in my suitcase; he got my credit cards, camera, cash, watch and lipstick (thank goodness I had an extra lipstick in the bathroom!). David lost his social security card, passport and all his financial info. By the way, when they tell you it’s easy to cancel your credit and ATM cards 24 hours a day, they are LYING. I suppose I should be happy he didn’t slit my throat on his way out . . . Other than that little adventure, it was a lovely trip.

So, what did I miss here?

I had a grat time while in New Orleans, (about three weeks ago) however since I was there on business I didn’t get to go on any tours. I did, however stumble in to a haunted bar called The Babylon Club, very weird. I too had a great time and was vastly impressed with the amazing food. It was SOOOOOO good. I did not think they had an overly large gay population, maybe they are just more flamboyant. I met quite a few cute hetero men, but of course I have a guy at home, so I politely declined.

Q: What can make a Monday morning worse than normal?
A: Hearing about Eve geting along “like a house afire” with a cute heterosexual guy who doesn’t have to be me! Where’d I put them weapons of mass destruction…

Welcome back Eve. The boards were empty and listless without you. In fact, everyone stopped posting around Thursday or so. Glad to have you back. I mean, a woman so glamorous that even a cat burglar can’t avoid feeling her up…

Thanks for posting about your trip. I’m going to New Orleans for Thanksgiving weekend and I have made a few notes about places you mentioned. Glad you had a great time (except for the robbery).

Dammit, Eve, ya coulda been KILT!

I toldja not to go down there without suitably arming yourself. I hope you brought along the pearl-handled revolver I gave you for your birthday.

Welcome back, Eve! Your trip sounds great.

I want to hear the real, dirty details as soon as possible in person!

Thanks, all. I am not nearly as freaked-out by my near-demise as I should be. Either it hasn’t sunk in, or I really am One Tough Cookie.

GolfWidow, I can recommend the jambalaya at The Gumbo Shop; the breakfast beignettes at Café du Mond (thanks for the tip, Ike!); La Librarie on Chartres Street (if you like dusty old second-hand bookshops); the Bourbon Club for great male strippers; be sure to see at least one of the above-ground graveyards—and the wax museum is a laff-and-a-haff.

I did buy a lovely garnet necklace at a voodoo shop. It’s supposed to attract men, but they never mentioned it attracts 'em right through your bedroom window at 3:00 a.m. . . .

Hey, I just got your post card! Cool! Thanks!

Hmmmmm…nice picture of a N’Awlins cemetery on the front…and on the back it sez

“Wish you were here! – Eve.”

Well, har-har-HAR-dee-har-har.

Not only dat stuff above, but dis here from 'nother thread:

You runnin’ roun’ on me, woman? I gots my harpoon right here, I tell ye 'bout it.

[harmonica intro]

My woman, she don’ mind me
She run roun’, she so mean
She treat me like a dirty ol dog
When she go down a New Orleans.

[harmonica riff]

My woman, she gots me drink’n
She wan’ nuth’n, no mo’ a me
She brung me down an’ she spun me roun’
Till I gots down on my knees.

Mmm Hmmmm [impressive harmonica riff]

Dat woman, she a devil
She shakes this, she wiggles that
She keeps my mojo right in her pocket
So’s I don’ know where I’s at.

Dass right [harmonica solo]

Woman o’ mine, she lef’ me
I got the blues, I got my hurt
She say she don’t care whe’er I comes or gos
Cause I don’t know how to flirt.

Oh yeah. [even more impressive harmionica riff]

Dat woman, she hard hearted
Meaner woman you never seen
She get to runnin’ roun’ on me
When she go down a New Orleans.
Yeah, when she go down a New Orleans.

Dats right, baby. I gon’ lock dat door on you, you don’ start actin’ like a good woman should. You know I treat you right, but you leave me here wid nothin’ but this ol’ hound dog fo company, an’ he near 'bout dead. I tell you ‘bout dat in my nex’ song.

Oh, good lord, APB, was that your mojo in my pocket? I put that skirt in the washing machine and . . . Well, I’m afraid I shrunk your mojo. I really am sorry, you should have told me earlier. Thanks for the serenade, toots.

Just talked to David and he’s ritually cleaned his whole apartment to try to exorcise the burglar. Just got the photos back and . . . Well, Ike, remember when you saw a photo of yourself and murmered darkly, “the camera puts on ten pounds” and I replied, “only if you’ve just eaten one, dear?” Well, you have had your revenge. I am NEVER setting foot in front of a camera again.

Last week’s “People” has a cover story on dangerous crash diets and eating disorders, but do they give us any handy TIPS? Damn “People.” Useless rag.

Well, I hope Mr. Golf doesn’t mind waiting out on the sidewalk for a few hours. Thanks for the tips.

Honey, you leave him out on Bourbon Street on THAT corner, you’ll never see him again!

Promises, Promises!

Hi Eve!

I’ve always wanted to go to New Orleans, it sounds like a marvelously fascinating city.

I’m so glad you had fun, so sorry you got robbed, and very happy you didn’t lose more than your credit cards and etc.

I’ve always wanted to see Savannah, too~what say we have a world-wide DopeFest there sometime?

Scotti

Scot—Savannah is my second-favorite Southern city, next to New Orleans! Really lovely pre-Civil War buildings (Sherman didn’t torch the jernt as he did Atlanta). The whole town is set up around a series of beautifully landscaped parks.

New Orleans looks just like the pitcher-postcards: elegantly decaying 1830s buildings with lacy cast-iron galleries, narrow streets, fascinating shops, cat burglars climbing through your window.

Hijack

Scotti - I have to say that Savannah is my favorite city in the whole country. I’ve been there three times and if I had a choice, I would definitely live there. You should make it a point to make a visit there.

hmmm - Savannah is an easy day-trip for me… methinks I should make the trek… I’ve got an anniversary coming up next monthand we have yet to do something exciting for our anniversary…

Savannah has that bad-smell thing going on. Don’t they have a horsefat-rendering plant downwind on the river?

Charleston has Savannah beat all hollow. It’s an easier city to walk around (Savannah really requires a bicycle), and the history is just as cool, the gardens just as lush, the buildings just as beautiful.

The layout is more of an eclectic jumble than a carefully planned deal: Charleston is like a southern Boston, Savannah is like a southern New York.

Savannah is just better-known now because of the media boost from MIDNIGHT IN THE GARDEN OF GOOD AND EVIL.

Wrning to those going to Savannah-do NOT be suckered into taking Uncle Sam’s Riverboat Cruise. It goes right past the oh-so-scenic paper pulping plants. You’ll have terminal lung cancer by the time you reach shore.

Paper-pulping plants! THAT’S it! THAT’S the smell!

The natives would probably consider the aroma of horsefat-rendering to be as of lilacs and petunias in comparison!