Those pesky USB ports

Factual Questions
1

I have a Dell Inspiron 1764 that’s 4 years old (I know, I know…I’m looking into new ones within the next 6 months). It has 4 side USB ports, 2 to a side. I tend to use an external hard drive when I’m gaming (I keep the games themselves one the external drive for space issues, and just use the RAM when I play).

To the best of my knowledge, the hard drive has only ever worked in one USB port (call it passenger’s side rear…closest to the user on the right side). I have a base/cooling fan that I always keep plugged in to the laptop.

I’ve developed a loose connection in the USB port (diagnosis based on the “wiggle” test and connectivity issues) that I always had the hard drive plugged into. The cooling fan works in that port, but no other port acknowledges that the device is plugged in. I’ve tried following the instructions I found here, with no success. I also have problems with getting any of the USB ports to recognize the USB iPhone charger.

I suppose it’s possible that I also have a loose connection in the hard drive itself, but that doesn’t solve any of the other issues.

Before I break down and buy a new one (or attempt a solder job), any ideas why the USB ports are giving me fits?

2

Are all the ports the same type (like, USB 2 vs USB 3)?

3

I’m not sure. I know next to nothing about computers. How would I check that?

4

they do mechanically wear out to where they don’t make good connection or might need to be propped up.

it is good to use a USB hub connected to plug in and out of

5

Normally they’d be a different color, but it looks like when I looked up the specs they are all USB 2.0

I wouldn’t use an iPhone to determine if a port is working (too many issues with cables and older systems and voltage and stuff). I’d probably use something like a USB thumb drive.

I have a USB power monitor I got off Amazon for like $20. They also have some that seem fine for $10 (don’t think they had it when I bought mine). It is useful as it sits between your computer and the device and gives you a readout of current and voltage used.

Not sure if you want to spend $10 - or if you even need too, but thought I’d mention that as an option.

So first thing is first:

  1. Eliminate the drive/cable as part of the problem. Take the drive to a different (hopefully more recent computer). Use the same cable you are using now.

Does it work?

Assuming this is windows - make sure volume is up so you can hear alert sound.

Relatively gently take the cable the plugs into the drive and move it around (trying to gently flex the connector on the drive)

Does windows make that sound/give that icon in lower right showing it is losing connection with device?

Repeat the process along the cable and connector. Basically you are looking for a loose connection at six different locations:

  • the port on the drive
  • the USB cable connector where it plugs into drive
  • the part where the USB connector meets the flat wire on the end near the drive
  • the part where the USB connector meets the flat wire on the end near the PC
  • the USB cable connector where it plugs into laptop/PC
  • the port on the laptop/PC

The first two and last two of those will sort of be tested at the same time.

Repeat the same test on the laptop.

If at any point it loses connection with either the PC or the laptop it means on of three things is bad:

The cable
The port on the drive
The port on the Laptop/PC

If the flex test fails on the PC - replace the cable and try again on PC. If it works - it was probably just the cable. Plug it into the laptop - if it works now - you are probably good to go. Even if it passes on the PC - I would try using a different cable on the laptop.

I would only consider trying to resolver the connector in the laptop if you notice an intermittent connection. You should make sure that you observe the laptop losing connectivity to the USB device when the port on the laptop is flexed.

You can only assume it is in the laptop if:

Two totally different devices obtain & lose connection when port in laptop is flexed
AND
Those two devices are also tested on another computer and pass

Those two different devices can not use the same cable.

I would not use a USB fan or iPhone for testing - these aren’t standard devices and there are too many other factors at play.

When I wrote this - I planned on this being a little more organized - sorry it isn’t :slight_smile:
I hope it gives you a general idea on how to troubleshoot your laptop

You can buy new USB cables for devices off amazon for like $7-10 I think. Those cables are almost never (now a days) proprietary. You probably have more than one cable already that you can use for testing. Usually they are either “micro” or “mini” connection.

I was assuming for the purposes I wrote above that your external drive is one with its own cable and gets its power from the USB (there is no external power supply).

You can still use a modified version of the above it is a thumb drive.

6

And I certainly would consider using this suggestion before actually using the soldering method :slight_smile:

7

Difference between USB 3 and USB 2. (Link may take a few to come up.) Visually, USB 3.0 comes with a blue color chip. Zoom Zoom.

8

I consider it strange that your HDD has only ever worked with one of your four ports.

9

I’m betting you have a “portable” external hard drive with no external AC plug right ? The issue with only some ports working is usually down to not enough power being provided- if you buy a powered USB hub you can usually get those to work in any USB port thereafter.

10

I have had many problems with my USB ports.

About half of them originated because I pulled out a cable while in the middle of doing a transfer.

Do you recall interrupting a data transfer suddenly on one of your USB ports?

11

Go to the Craigslist site for your city and look up PC Technicians or other workers who will come to your home and fix your PC.

About half the people who list that way advertise that you do not have to pay them anything if they can’t fix your problem. Those are the ones to call if you are new to this area.

If you are new (you haven’t done this before), talk with them for a few minutes before you agree to have them come to your home. Make sure you feel comfortable with them and if you are at all worried about a stranger coming to your home, it is perfectly reasonable for you to ask for references. Most people who ask for references never seem to call them. That is incredibly bad. If you ask for references, be sure you call them and be sure you get some kind of info on this technician fellow.

You want to talk with them for a few minutes to ensure that the know more about USB ports than you do. Make sure they seem to sound like they know how to solve the problem before you give them your address.

If you are still not 100% comfortable, make sure that you have a friend who will come to your home and sit with you in case this person tries to rob you or do you any other kind of harm.

12

Wait, what? That might cause a software/driver\ issue until the next reboot, but you shouldn’t be able to do any permanent damage during a transfer that you wouldn’t have done without the transfer.

13

Correct

one other thing I have run into with usb ports that have had alot of plugging and unplugging is they get dirty. Try some alcohol on a bit of paper towel and the rounded end of preferably a plastic paper clip or similar item to scrub the contacts a bit. I have this problem with my utility flash drives here and there from being plugged into dozens of different computers a week (yes, slutty flash drive)

14

CL is VERY hit and miss on PC techs, plenty of legit shops offer a free diagnosis, do not require you to have people in your home, and are far less likely to rip you off.

There are plenty of well meaning and skilled techs you can find that way, but you have to sift them from a bunch of idiots and problem children.