Trying to catch up with women's fashion (or, let's talk about clothes).

I think this belongs here—fashion design is taught at design and art schools and I sure think that there’s an art to it!

Anyway, as I noted in another thread, I’m going to resume sewing. I used to work at a fabric store some years ago and was quite the sewing geek. Because of my job, I knew just what was “in” and wasn’t—at least in the fashion sewing crowd. But I’ve kind of lapsed lately and am woefully out of touch.

I have all these sewing patterns—you don’t want to know how many—but they’re old. Many over 10 years old. Fortunately, it seems like I have a “classic” taste, because I see similar styles of patterns still being sold today. Not all, but some. Some I’m not sure about. I know that I like them, but am I behind the times?

All I’m planning to for the moment is crank out some easy, comfortable elastic waist pants and skirts and pullover tops, but down the line I will want to make something a little more tailored or detailed, and I don’t want to waste my time making something that looks out of date and dorky. I also want to focus on making stuff that will stand the test of time, and not look “too young” or “too old” or too out of fashion, even ten years from now. (I make my clothes to last. ;)) I should add here that I’m mumblemumble years old. Okay, not old, but not a sweet young thing either.

I see some nice (I think) designs on the Vogue and Butterick Pattern store. Here’s a long dress that I really like. Here’s similar one. I have quite a few patterns like these in my pattern stash. This would be considered a “classic” style that will have some lasting power, right? I’m not going to angst about being slightly out of date, but I don’t want to come off looking like a dork.

And this outfit and this are ones that I particularly like, and seem pretty classic to me. (Boring to some, perhaps, but choose a nice fabric and it’s, well, nice! And flattering.)

As far as skirts go, this one really tickles my fancy. I also like the simple old longer, fuller calf-length skirt, and I am pretty certain that those types of skirts will always be in style in some way.

These styles of pants (and these too) are a style I’ve never sewn, and I can’t say I’m inclined to sew them. Not because they don’t look nice, but because I’ve got sooooo many of these and these kinds of patterns, know how to sew this style pretty well (and quickly) and think that they look more “classic.” Am I being short-sighted in not considering the other style of pant? Other than perhaps the fact that I might look like crap in them, anyway? :wink:

And while we’re on the subject of pants, is there any pant ankle width that is just “out”? I see such a variety of pant leg widths—wide legged, loose-fitting, and the slim pants that have extremely narrow ankle widths, and everything in between. I tend to like my pants on the narrower side, but I like loose and baggy too. And, where did all the cullottes go? I can find hardly any cullottes. (Vogue has a few.) I know they’re kind of dorky, but sometimes you just want to wear something easy and flowy, but you don’t want a skirt, you know? I have several cullotte patterns in my stash, but I do find it interesting that they’re almost impossible to find new.

And sleeves—I have some dress patterns that have a “poufy” gathered sleeve (at the shoulder). Is this out of style or dorky, or what? I think some of them are kind of nice.

Well, that’s about all I’ve got so far. Obviously this is not really a sewing thread—I just want some input and opinions from fashion-minded folk. I’d love to hear about your preferences, predictions, advice, and what you consider “classic,” and so forth.

Oh dear. I should have previewed my links. This pant pattern is one that I have sewn, or would sew, while this style of pant is one that I’ve never sewn and am ambivalent about trying out.

Here’s my 2 cents worth.

Buy some new patterns. The dirndle skirt you like hasn’t been in stores for years. The pants that you don’t have a pattern for are heavily represented in stores, the other pants much less so. There are no pouffy sleeves on anything that I’ve seen in the stores.

I sew and I shop. I look at what fabrics, patterns and styles are in the stores and try to get close to them. If it isn’t in the stores, it’s going to look really, really “Harriet Homemaker” even if your sewing skills are outstanding. Anyway, that’s just me. Good luck with the sewing.

Try searching Butterick and McCalls for skorts: McCalls Butterick - although I’m not necessarily sure that a skort and a culotte are exactly the same thing (for some reason, I think that a skort doesn’t have the flap thing on the back, while a culotte does - am I wrong?)

I think you can’t go wrong with the tailored suit and dresses (that red checked Vogue suit is gorgeous!). I’m seeing quite a bit of tailored mid-century styles on the market, while the neo-bohemian is waning. Pencil skirts and knee length full skirts are big for fall. Old school blouses and thin cardigans are in. Pants are in all widths, with the key word being tailored. Classic dressmaker details are the way to go.

JayElle, Fashion Junkie.

Gosh, I was about to say that I personally didn’t make value judgments based on what people wear. Then I realized–the hell I don’t. I have friends I love dearly who dress quite dorkily, so I make value judgments, but only on their clothes. Unless you’re trying to impress somebody for some specific reason, like a job interview, wear things you like.

FWIW I thought the dresses looked kind of dated, based on the sleeves. You can make a lot of different with details like the fabric (of course), the size of the buttons, the width of the belt, the size or complete lack of shoulder pads, etc. (For jackets, I suppose you’d have to build in an adjustment for smaller or larger shoulder pads.) Short boxy jackets are in right now, but longer ones–duster length, with hemlines that fall to knee length or lower–are also trendy. But the classic hip or fingertip length would not necessarily look out of date.

Lsura, “skorts” are a very short skirt with a matching panty underneath, kind of like a tennis dress. They are for teenagers.

“Culottes” are divided skirts, like very loose pants. They can be shorter or longer (when longer, sometimes called “gaucho pants”) and may or may not have a flap. (If they have a flap they’re indistinguishable from a skirt, pretty much, until the wind blows.) As far as I know, they are in the wear-'em-if-you-want category but would be considered really casual, unless they had the flap and then, as I said, nobody could tell.

You might also want to check out The Great Pattern Review.
It doesn’t talk about style, but it does tell you whether or not it’s worth purchasing.

Wow. Thanks everyone for your opinions! I love this!

Actually, I already have. Pattern-buying is kind of a compulsion. :wink:

I’ll keep that in mind. It’s probably not the best look for my figure. (All those gathers at the waist…) I look better in the “princess seam” flowy type dresses.

I’m not so much concerned about being the height of fashion, I just don’t want to be out of it and completely dorky (I seem to use that word a lot, don’t I?). If the simple pleated trousers are still worn by some and are still being sold, then I’m okay with that. The new style of pants are far more popular, I’m aware, but will they be equally popular in 5 years? I don’t know. I hadn’t noticed but perhaps they have been one of those classic standards. I do know that I’ve seen that “older fashioned” style of (plain or pleated) pant in old movies so I had hoped they were pretty classic.

This is what my sister told me. I’ll just shelve those patterns and wait until poufy sleeves are “in” again. Thanks!

Wow. Thank you. This is really good to know. I have always liked tailored (and look better in tailored) so I know where to focus my efforts!

Okay, this is where I am completely in the dark, because they looked fine to me. What kind of sleeves are in, and what are out? I need specifics here! :slight_smile:

I think I need to start looking at pattern books and department stores for ideas, don’t I? Boy, that will be a hardship. :wink:

Good to know. I like both.

That’s also good to know, since I tend to keep wearing my stuff, year after year. (I’m wearing a pair of jeans I made about 10 years ago!)

That’s kind of what I figured. I love wearing them around the house, and I always knew that I could dash off to the store without feeling too freaky. (Not that I am a fashion queen or anything, but I do have a love for fashion, sewing and fabrics that has been dormant for a while.) Fortunately I unearthed quite a few cullottes patterns so I’m really all set. But I also ordered this pattern last night, in my quest for loose-fitting cullotte-type pants. (These aren’t really wide-legged enough to qualify as cullottes, but they looked really comfortable.) I had a couple of pairs just like the long ankle-length version and I just loved them for lounging around the house. I literally wore them out. I am determined to make more!

By the way, yesterday I also ordered this Vintage Vogue pattern because I thought it was a trip, and this one because the jacket was bizarre (and looked easy to sew).

Guin: Thanks for that link. I will definitely spend some time there!

Oh, you know what? I looked at the sleeves on those two dresses again, and I do see your point about the sleeves. I don’t necessarily hate them, but they wouldn’t be my first choice either. The rest of the dress design, however, is one that I gravitate towards.

The only thing that elicited a definite “no” from me were the two dress patterns.

I would definitely shelve all of the dress patterns, for now. There are super-short dresses for teenagers, and there are the I-am-a-local-newscaster dresses that department stores always sell, but I just can’t think of a single casual dress that isn’t marginal at best and completely out at worst, right now. Dresses are for parties and premieres.

Stay away from anything that appears to be designed to accomodate shoulder pads.

Stay away from pleated-front pants, for now. The current wisdom is that they make your bottom half look twice its actual size… and I agree.

Stay away from buttons on the front of anything except a tailored blouse, a jacket, a cardigan, or a johnny-collar sweater (I guess I’m trying to say, no dresses with buttons on the fronts… but then, no dresses either).

Stay away from superfluous pockets, both on tops and on bottoms. On tops, they look dated. On bottoms, cargo is in (and maybe on the way out), but really… I don’t think any of us need extra bulk on our thighs.

Classic suiting fabrics are big this fall. There are the funky pastel tweeds, which will probably be out next year, but classic pinstripes (now in fun colors, which are subtle enough to keep wearing, I think), herringbone, and tweed are all good. Houndstooth is not so good. Plaid and windowpane are good if it’s a skirt cut on the bias.

What’s in right now, and I’ve been surprised that the pattern companies picked up on it so fast, are funky hemlines on skirts. Tulip skirts, pleats, insets, asymmetrical hems… this was in last year and it’s in again this year, and my feeling is that it will never entirely go away.

For pants, everything but extreme bellbottoms is in, one way or another. I would focus on “boot cut” or “straight leg” silhouettes–it has been in for almost ten years now, so it seems like a keeper. Very narrow legs, I see going with a matching short tailored jacket and strappy heels–it’s a “glam” look for the very thin. Same for very wide-leg pants–I wouldn’t do it without a very flat tummy and very long earrings. One thing that you may want to consider is the current tendency to hem pants an inch or two longer than you really should, and wear them with high heels. This is a currently accepted way of making yourself look taller and slimmer than you are, and when it goes out, you can just shorten the pants.

Well, there’s my personal advice. Age 24, “librarian look” aficionado with lots of tweeds and cashmere in the closet.

I love, love, love that vintage Vogue pattern! Make it in a lovely tweed and it would look like it came down this year’s fall runways. Shirtwaists are supposed to be big, too. Ann Taylor is showing a vintage shirtwaist with a full skirt and crinoline. I must have it!

As for sleeves, think along the lines of fitted set sleeves, rather than drapey.

Those loose drawstring pants look rather comfy, and just the sort of thing I’d wear.

If you don’t mind a bit of a hijack. Would anyone recommend some easy to sew patterns for someone with no fashion sense, and not a lot of time?

Mainly pants or skirts because I think I’d have more luck sewing my own than I am buying (shirts I have no problem). I am definately stopping at the fabric store tomorrow to see if I can find a pattern for the loose pants.

I’m a pretty decent sewer, not great but I know my way around my machine.

Well, they can wait, then. I love dresses but don’t tend to sew them as often as other pieces.

I do have some of those types of patterns, and I kind of had a feeling that they were out. Either I’ll adjust the pattern to get rid of the shoulder pad allowance, or just shelve the pattern.

I had a feeling that this was the case. I do have several pants patterns with the “flat front” (unpleated) version, so I figured I’d just go with those for now.

Agreed. I usually leave pockets off of jackets and tops especially. And cargo pants? Never!

I know I’ve got some of these in my fabric stash (which is even more frightening than my pattern stash) but I need to dig through everything and take inventory.

I’ll venture more slowly with them. They look fabulous, but also looked “trendy,” so I am cautious. If they stick around, I’ll make some. They are so bizarre. I like that.

I kind of suspected that, and I’ve got plenty of patterns with a not-too-narrow silhouette, so I’ll focus on those.

My tummy is not flat, so unless it’s a “lounging around the house I don’t care how I look” pant (which I intend to make), I had planned on avoiding that style.

Thanks so much for the specific advice. You are great, all of you!

I feel like I’ve been living under a rock. But I just was thinking of other things and had a job where jeans and t-shirts were daily wear, so I just sort of got out of the loop.

I’m glad it meets with your approval! :slight_smile: I love the vintage stuff, and in some cases my figure (which is definitely too ample right now) is more suited for some of the vintage stuff (i.e. it’s curvy).

I love the vintage stuff too. There are lots of vintage mink collars and cuffs on eBay, going for $10 - $20. Might be fun!

Sattua: don’t get me started on the stuff that can be found on eBay! It’s dangerous! :wink:

Flutterby, I don’t know if I’m the best person to give you advice, because apparently I’ve (temporarily) lost my fashion sense (or at least it’s very dormant). But if I were you, I’d start with some simple pull-on pants. I think I linked to a nice pattern with some loose, wide-legged ones in a previous post. They look so comfortable!

Oh, it looks like Vogue has just come out with a bunch of new patterns for Winter. Some of them look pretty nice (I haven’t looked at them all yet.)

No culottes. No. Not ever. Not flattering on anybody, let alone “stylish”.

Tailored or tailored-boxy jackets and such are the thing, like that vintage affair you linked. “Ladies who lunch” is a good look. Pants should be flat front, never pleated (not that that isn’t easier to sew anyway, of course) and waistlines shouldn’t really be at the waist, even for an older lady. I mean, you don’t want to be all Paris Hilton, but a structured waist a few fingers down is a better look and much more polished. Pants should be relatively fitted through the hip and upper leg, with various styles after that. Slim-fit tapered legs are a no-no, though. The past-the-knee to mid-calf length seems to be in with skirts, which is fairly universally flattering - they’re coming in classic pencil or A-line styles, often with crazy pleats, some of which look nicely tailored and some of which look stupid. You ought to be able to tell the difference. :slight_smile:

If you can do tailored Chanel-style jackets that turn out with the right structured look (something I have trouble with), that’s how you’re really going to save money sewing and looking really great. Tailored is the watchword, and I don’t mean tailored to include shoulder pads.

I just remembered. Though it’s mostly vintage style patterns (Regency and Edwardian), Sense and Sensibility Patterns has a really cute forties swing dress pattern.