Two Tykes in Tokyo

Finally, someone with “-zilla” in their name is going to Japan! Part of a trip to the Philippines where we wanted a side trip this coming November.

You may recall my trips to New York City with my little girl Anya, where you folks gave tremendous advice. She’s now 5 and we’re bringing along another companion, my 1-year-old son Grant.

We’re staying at the Shinjuku Prince, right by the station. We’ll be playing tourist: things like Tokyo Tower, Asakusa, Meiji Shrine, Ginza, and a Himiko cruise. We welcome any and all recommendations for our five days.

We’d like to remain in Tokyo proper, so don’t tell Anya about daytrips to the Ghibli Museum (she’s a HUGE fan of Totoro and Ponyo) or Sanrio Puroland. We are doing Tokyo Disneyland.

What did you find fascinating (or overrated)?

The Ghibli Museum is actually closer to “Tokyo proper” than Tokyo Disneyland is–it’s not even in the same prefecture. I really do recommend going to the Ghibli Museum if you get a chance; it’s incredibly charming and fun for little kids too. Tokyo Disneyland is just the same as Disneyland in the USA, from what I understand. At least go to DisneySea, which is only available in Japan. It’s good fun.

I don’t know much about kiddie things to do in Tokyo, but I’d advise going to Harajuku (a weekday would probably be better if your kids don’t like crowds, but if you go on Sundays you can see street performers, etc.) You can enjoy all the cool shops and there’s a huge toy store on Omotesando street for the kids, as well as a lovely souvenir shop called Oriental Bazaar, if you need any Japanese-y stuff.

We chose to remain in Tokyo proper because there’s so much cool stuff to see within the city that it fills up our schedule.

As for outside of Tokyo, I would’ve preferred a day trip to Kyoto! But there’s a couple factors to consider: Anya and Grant. So, we had to make some choices on our out-of-town trip; Ghibli vs Sanrio Puroland vs Disneyland. Fully vetting the three, we went with Mickey Mouse. It will be our kids’ first trip to any Disneyland.

TokyoDisney is not really so great compared to the other Disney parks, but if it’s her first time, and at that age, I’m sure she’ll have a blast. I hear TokyoSea is proper awesome though.

And, seconding what Tanaqui said, it’s super easy to get to the Ghibli Museum. You just go 20 minutes west of Shinjuku on the Chuo-sen train line, to Higashi-Koganei I believe. I am a huge fool… lived there for a month and somehow never went to see it. Anyway, I humbly ask you to rethink your commitment to some bizarre abstraction notion of geographical purity.

Hmm… other than that, I can’t think of anything else at the moment that your kids would especially enjoy. You might be able to visit a sumo stable if you make a reservation, which I could see being interesting. Where’s Tokyo Player at?

Beta-chan, also another Anya, is just two, so there is a world of difference between what she likes and what your Anya would like.

We took Anya to Disney Sea, and she liked it. I don’t think you would go wrong with either it or Disneyland.

We haven’t gone yet to Ghibili museum, but since we are fighting ignorance here, I will quibble on your definition of “Tokyo ‘proper’.” The only definition of Tokyo “proper” which would exclude the museum is referring to the 23 wards (since Tokyo is a prefecture, Tokyo “city” would be the 23 “ku” or wards as they are traditionally translated). However, you can’t say you are sticking to Tokyo “proper”, while including DisneyLand. Naturally, it’s OK to exclude the museum if you don’t have the time.

When are you visiting? The season makes a difference is you want mostly outdoor activities.

All the places you mention are good places. I’d recommend the Tokyo Metropolitan building. It has a free observatory on the 52nd floor, and you would be close enough to see Shinjuku from there. From there, you can walk or grab a taxi to the back side of the Yoyogi park, and then on to Meiji shrine. You are then in Harajuku and Omotesando. See Things To Do In Omotesando - Tokyo Top Guide

From there, you can go to the Children’s Castle, which has play things for kids to do. It may give your Anya a chance to just have fun.

Another interesting trip is to Odaiba. There are a few attractions including a maritime museum and a science museum, which has some hands on activities.
There is a park on the bay, which the kids can run around.

A tyke is a person from Yorkshire,

I am confused

Do NOT go to Tokyo Tower unless you want to be sucked into another dimension

Awesome response time! :smiley:

Someone has been a little busy lately.

If you’re going to Asakusa, you might want to go to Ueno Park as well. There’s the zoo, and several worthwhile mueseums nearby. When I took my kids (who were older), we spent four days at the zoo and the National Museum of Nature and Science.

I was actually being sincere >_> I thought you responded really quick. Darn internet and its lack of inflection.

No problem! I had seen the thread before, but hadn’t had time to respond at the time.

And don’t forget some popular toy shops:

Hakuhinkan in Ginza near Shimbashi.
http://www.hakuhinkan.co.jp/guide_en.html

Kiddyland in Omotesando near Harajuku.
http://www.kiddyland.co.jp/en/

Sunshine City in Ikebukuro boasts an indoor Japanese theme park for kids “Namja Town.” It also houses an aquarium and observatory.

One final note, the OP wrote their visit would be in November. From the 8th of the month, both Tokyo Disneyland and Tokyo DisneySea will be having their Christmas events. I strongly recommend against visiting either park on a weekend or holiday.

What? Don’t give them a chance to see the real Japan? :stuck_out_tongue:

Good point, though, since they will be here on vacation, then visit on weekdays.

A note about Tokyo Tower. The elevator going to the top deck is scary. Just after it gets under way, a “safety mechanism” engages. The elevator jerks quite violently and loudly. I could see this scaring the dickens out of small children. I was honestly disappointed that I waited so long in line to go up the Lift of Terror, scan the view for a few minutes from the tiny top deck, then wait a long time to return to the main deck. The main deck, though, rocks like a rock star.

If you’re looking to get clothing souvenirs for a large American-sized man, get to the sumo area, Ryogoku. You will not find sandals or kimonos in big sizes anywhere else. It’s one train stop away from Akihabara, “Electric City.”

Finally find your way around Tokyo by train. This website tells you the trains to take, how much the trip costs, and how long the trip will take. I found it helpful in planning excursions. Sometimes places that seem distant on a surface map take less time than I’d expected by train.

I know nothing about Japan, but the last thing I would do there is waste time at Disneyland. That’s a very American thing, no reason to go to the other side of the planet to do it. I’d spend my time doing things I can’t do in the States. Like those museums, or other Japanese-y stuff. Also wouldn’t be eating at a Tokyo McDonald’s, for the same reasons.

I’m not so sure I’d agree about dissing Tokyo McDonalds. It is not like Chicago McDonalds or London McDonalds or Mumbai McDonalds. The menu differs a lot aside from the Big Mac and fries. If you can’t find a convenient Mos Burger, well, you’ll still get a taste of Japan at Macca’s.

Burger King, on the other hand, is Burger King. They don’t localize much outside America. No need to make a special stop there unless you’re homesick.

If it wasn’t for the little ones, though we always saw families with small children wherever we went, I would recommend the “Love Train” to Hakone. The rain forest, the small villages and the Picasso Museum! were awesome, and really a great relief from the noise of the world’s biggest/most populous city.

Kids are sometimes called “tykes”. Just trying to be clever: TYKe in ToKYo. C’mon, that’s the epitome of wit!

We’re back and had a terrific time!

We hit all the highlights: Ginza, Imperial Palace, Asakusa, Shibuya, Shinjuku, and Odaiba. We were unashamedly tourists, and enjoyed Tokyo Tower, the sightseeing double-decker bus, and the large glass-floor ferris wheel. I’m a white boy with a camera around my neck pushing a stroller. Forget blending in. Although we saw a lot, it didn’t feel rushed. The train really made things easy to get around. Another plus was the early sunsets in November, so we could see the lights of Kabukicho and Akihabara without being out too late.

Anya totally loved Disneyland, especially the Pooh ride (which we wisely did first). Little Grant couldn’t get enough of Small World (“more boat, more boat”), although we cut him off after 3 straight times. Mean parents, we are. The costumed characters spent a lot of time with our kids, especially Pooh, Capt Sparrow, and Peter Pan. Maybe they were so thrilled to speak English with someone? The crowds didn’t seem to mind, they were also snapping pics of Anya & Grant with them. I’m sure we’ll take the kids to other Disney parks in the future, but it won’t feel as special as Tokyo’s.

Some of the little quirks I noticed:

People loved our kids (5 and 1 years old). Not just pointing, but stopping to take photos of them. I should’ve charged a modeling fee. I didn’t really mind when attractive girls in short skirts ran up squealing “Kawaii!” to the kids. Good job, Grant!

I read the restaurants could be hostile toward gaijin families with kids. We never had that problem. We were even welcomed into Omoide Yokocho places. Could’ve used more high chairs, though.

McDonalds: Yes, we ate here. That makes me an uncultured American tourist. However, I have 2 rules: Rule 1): I must eat something not on an American menu. I had an ebi-burger, a patty with shrimp inside. Quite tasty. In fact, Anya finished it for me. Rule 2): “No McDonalds” rules go out the window when you have children

Narita is really, really far from Tokyo. But we loved the N’EX train so much that we just “counted it” as a Tokyo attraction. A very smooth ride, with lots of scenery. We saw the countryside, so the kids didn’t think it was one gigantic city. Now Hawaiian Airlines is flying to Haneda. Of course.

The crowded trains. Yes, they do get that cramped. We took the Chuo Line from Shinjuku to Tokyo Station at 7:30am. I thought I was beating the 8-10am rush hour. Nope. The train arrived and it was totally packed. Of course, I was a little smart and was carrying both kids and the folded stroller as a “backpack”. We got in easy enough, since a lot got off at Shinjuku… but a lot also got on. I was pressed like a puzzle piece, unable to move. If the train had crashed, I was plenty padded. Then, it made another stop, and MORE people got on. At this time, I was concered about the train’s capacity. The windows were completely fogged over due to breathing. At the next stop, still more people had got on. Maybe there were pushers outside, but I couldn’t see. Yet, the next day at 7:15am, we could easily sit down! Those 15 minutes apparently made a huge difference. “Daddy, I don’t like the squishy train!”

Most of the restaurants only had Japanese-lettered names, but a lot the stores had exclusively English characters. I wonder why? I couldn’t tell you what the Japanese characters for Mitsukoshi are, nor could I tell you the name of that terrific noodle place in Kabukicho.

I should mention my one peeve about Japan. Lack of public rubbish cans. Everything is so clean, but where does the litter go? I felt things were going a little too far,when I was in a diaper changing room, and noticed there was NO trash can! I realized this only AFTER I was holding the poopy diaper. Seriously, Japan?

An extraordinarily memorable trip, and I have the pictures to prove it. Take a look (caution, I took quite a few, best to start with the “Overview”):
http://picasaweb.google.com/grantjap