Yes, that’s a good point, and completely fair. If you really open yourself to the city, you will perceive a certain empty weariness, both in the places and the people. As a location, it’s essentially a historical novelty, bordering on a theme park; it’s not a healthy place for someone to just live.
This speaks to my biases as a traveler, but — if you go as a tourist and you just want to ride the gondolas and buy some fancy glass, the locals will put on a polite face for you, and you’ll have an enjoyable time.
But me, I really like to be in a place, getting off the common track, meeting and talking to people about themselves and their relationship to the location. In Venice, when I did this, I was surprised to discover a barely-concealed undercurrent of deep sadness. The locals are very proud of the city’s beauty and historical importance, but are simultaneously extremely aware that Venice’s days as a sparkling jewel are over and it’s now well on the way to irreversible decay. But when I politely persisted in my curiosity, most of them perked back up, because they recognized my genuine interest and wanted to tell me their personal stories, and the stories of the city.
Example: I was near the Rialto bridge, buying some gelato for my kids. There was a guy hanging out, making chitchat with the woman behind the counter. He heard me speaking English, and asked me how I was enjoying the city, in a friendly but perfunctory tone. I said it was beautiful, there are amazing things to see everywhere, but it seems like you really have to look in the nooks and crannies to see the really interesting stuff. I mentioned how, earlier that morning, we had passed a building under renovation, with its doors wide open, and inside, the tilework in the vestibule was spectacular. It was just another building, not a destination, but there had to be a story behind it. He grinned, and said, Let me show you something. He walked with us for a couple of blocks, to a piazza with a church at one end. He pointed up at the gold clock mounted on the church: Everybody who comes to Venice wants to see the big blue block, it’s the famous clock, but this clock, this is the oldest clock in Venice, on the oldest church in Venice. He pointed out the unusual 24-hour design, and told us a crazy story about how it never worked right, how it’s never had the correct time, not in 500 years.
Venice may be a badly-faded gem, but you can still pry into the crevices and see its former glory.
This is getting off track for FQ, but when someplace makes a powerful impression on me, I find it hard not to babble on about it.