You are correct: the heat does go into the air in the room and therein lies the problem. The air in his room heated up so was less able to cool his PC. You get more cooling from air that’s at 10 degrees C than air that’s at 20 degrees C.
I won a water cooling kit at a LAN and put it on an old P4 system to try a monster overclock with it. I ran into power issues with that though, but the cooler was pretty quiet for its performance.
Leaks aren’t a big deal since you use distilled water, which doesn’t short anything out… immediately.
Like everyone said, it’s expensive. I’d do it again but only if I was going to broke on a system. The components cost 2x - 3x the best air coolers and you’ll want a giant case. It looks awesome, gives you huge overclocking, and it is extremely quiet compared to a similar performing air cooling solution. You need to maintain it monthly, like an air cooler. That’s mostly just making sure everything is topped off and tight.
Nope. Not a chance. I can point you at the fans making the most noise. In my case, it’s the graphics card and the northbridge fans.
Nope…works fine.
The liquid cooling has much greater ability to remove heat than air. So, while the air warms up and decreases cooling ability the liquid cooling system easily has the capacity to overcome it. Just like a car’s radiator works fine in the summer as well as the winter.
Air cooling there was a sort of break-point where the warmer air and heat output of the PC were just too much (not to mention the jet engine noise coming from the thing to shove as much air through as possible).
Sure, but the same amount of heat is dumped into the room.
Yeah…and?
The point is when I was doing air cooling the room would warm up and a point would be reached where the air cooling (due to warmer air being pumped through) was insufficient and my PC would overheat.
With liquid cooling the air warms up but the liquid cooler’s greater capacity to remove heat means it can overcome this problem and keep the computer cool enough for operation.