I’m (hopefully) traveling to Wyoming in mid-September, and will spend the better part of 2 weeks in Grand Tetons and Yellowstone. I’m into photography and hiking, but since I’ll be travelling alone I don’t think I want to backpack in too deeply. I’m trying to find a 4WD vehicle to rent, in case I need to get off the paved roads a bit.
What are some things that I absolutely *don’t * want to miss while I’m there? Extra credit is given if it’s something I won’t find in most guidebooks.
I was in Yellowstone in June, and my favorite part was the wildlife in Lamar Valley. Like you, I was alone, so hiking in the backcountry was out. The geysers were cool. Where are you staying? The campgrounds fill fast if you don’t have reservations.
September should be fine with respect to campgrounds. The kids are back to school and the peak of summer vacation is over. Also in general September is a beautiful month in Wyoming. The aspens will be turning gold and the temperature will be in the 70’s and 80’s. Perfect! I wish I could go back this year.
The nights will be chilly so bring some warm clothes.
If you have some time to kill, parking yourself next to one of the less-faithful geysers and waiting for it can be pretty cool. Somehow it’s more exciting when you don’t know if it’s going to blow five minutes from now or five hours from now. (Although I probably wouldn’t have the stamina to wait five hours. I’m just sayin’.)
I was in Jackson and GTNP in May on my honeymoon. We stayed at Signal Mountain Lodge for three nights. One of the highlights of our trip (and by far the most stunning view of the Tetons) was the float trip on the Snake River. The guide was extremely knowledgeable, and we saw a ton of wildlife including elk, bald eagles, beaver, and pelicans.
We didn’t get to do much hiking because it was rainy and muddy, but I’ve been told that the Inspiration Point and Lake Solitude trails are excellent.
And even though it’s touristy, you can’t leave without having a glass of wine on the deck at Dornan’s.
Hiking by yourself isn’t that big a deal in many places. The popular destinations will have lots of people on the trail so you won’t be alone. In the Tetons there are many short and half-day hikes up the various canyons and to the various view points. Death Canyon is a favorite of mine, and there’s a nice hike to a viewpoint above Jenny Lake. The boat trip across Jenny Lake is nice as is the hike around it.
I don’t know if it’s operating again but the Tram to the top of Rendezvous is worth the ride. You can go for some short hikes up top to spend some time at altitude.
You can arrange a canoe or rafting trip on the Snake River. Lots of outfitters will take you on a variety of trips.
Not only that, but in general, the less often a geyser goes off, the more impressive it is when it does. There are actually a couple of continual geysers in the park, but they only spray a foot or two high. Meanwhile, there are also some that are somewhat regular, but only go off once or twice a day: Castle Geyser, for instance, is about twice a day. These are hard to hit when you’re just going for a day trip, as most of my visits have been, but if you’re going to be there for weeks, you can definitely catch it.
Also in Yellowstone, absolutely don’t miss seeing the canyon (though frankly, it’d be hard to miss it). It’s not nearly as big as the Grand Canyon, of course, but it’s a heck of a lot more impressive.
And just remember, wherever you go: Hoofdestrians always have the right of way. The bison own that park, and you’re just visiting there, and they know it. If there’s a big fellow ahead of you on the road moseying along at five miles per hour, well then, the speed limit on that road is now five miles per hour.
Check to see if the road to the Natural Bridge still exists and is open. It might now be a hiking/bicycle trail. It’s near Bay Bridge campground.
See if there is still a trail to Thumper mud pot. It’s north of Lake off the Canyon Loop Road (west side of the Loop road). (In the vicinity bonus - ask if the cold water geyser still exists. It’s powered by carbon dioxide and not heat.)
Find the hot springs with (human?) bones in them. The springs are off a trail near the Rachel Welch Hills (north of Old Faithful but before Madison, east side of the Loop road).
Find the grave near Madison.
Out the west entrance and north, visit Hebgen Lake and Earthquake Lake. So how many bodies are buried there?
I forgot to mention that Yellowstone is freaking huge, I’m sure that you already know this. The first time I went I only built in two days to see the park. Oops. I’m glad you are planning a longer stay, there is much to see. The wildlife is everywhere and they have the run of the park, we are just visiting.
I remember the first time I went with my girlfriend. We were walking up some trail near the upper geyser basin and a white fox stepped onto the trail in front of her. She tore ass down the trail. I’m not sure why a little white fox scared her so much but it was hilarious.
Since you are in to photography and hiking you can easily spend a week in Yellowstone without becoming bored.
In Yellowstone, I second Hayden Valley. It’s hard to miss.
I’ve always enjoyed Mystic Falls; it’s a short hike off Biscuit Basin.
My favorite place to stay is probably Roosevelt Lodge. From there you can go off to the east (out of the park) through Cooke City and the Beartooth, a spectacular drive.
Yellowstone is wonderful; I could stay there for months and not get bored (although the food becomes a little hard to take after a while).
I don’t really like the Tetons much. For me, they’re worth about a half hour of looking at; then you can go have a nice raft trip down the Snake and you’re done. I did go up the ski lift at Teton Village once, though, and the view from there was pretty sweet.
I have to disagree with this. The Grand Tetons are an amazing chain of mountains and are still growing.
I agree that you can do Grand Teton National park in two days compared to Yellowstone Park but it is still very beautiful.
Because of this thread I’m thinking about using my last four vacation days. I probably won’t do it but fantasy is a good thing.
Let me second and embellish this. Mid-September has always been my favorite time to go there. The Winnesauruses are off the roads, the crowds are way down, etc…
But the best part is that the elk should be in rut around then. You should be able to hear the bulls bugling at dawn and dusk, especially if you’re tent camping. Hie yourself down to the Firehole River, along where it runs by some grassy areas on the West road, and watch the big guys bring in their harems. Absolutely unforgettable… even the sound. Worry about breakfast later.
Don’t miss the Tetons if you’re into photography. As awesome as Yellowstone is, Grand Teton typically makes for more breathtaking photos. I’ve gotten some great shots in some of the less-visited areas, like Taggart Lake. On the other hand, as cool as the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone is in person, I’ve never taken a good photo of it. I simply can’t capture the depth.
Word of warning - that time of year, I’ve gone on a raft trip on the Snake River and been snowed upon. It will likely be brisk, at least at night.
Yellowstone is the kind of place where three days is too much – and a month-long camping trip is not enough time.
Some highlights from my trip:
Old Faithful, seen from the observation point on the trail above the Upper Geyser Basin.
Bison all over the road.
A grizzly bear at looooong range.
A wolf in Lamar Valley (about an hour before sunrise… and with the flash off, all my camera got was a ghostly blur).
Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone.
And sunset at Grand Tetons.
A rule of thumb we developed on our trip: The bigger the camera lenses at any gathering, the more interesting the thing they are looking at. We validated this when we stopped by someone with a big telephoto lens – watching a bluebird nest, with daddy bird retrieving food for mommy bird.
Oh, don’t get me wrong, I love photographing the Tetons. They are beautiful at any time of day, any season of the year. But seeing them from the road is just a minor piece of the picture. You really need to get up in the canyons, and up on the spine, to get the full picture.
In Yellowstone, the 3 mile trek to the top of Mt Washburn has some fantastic views. If you’re up for a long day trip, head over to Cody and check out the excellent Buffalo Bill Historic Center. Better yet, spend the night (there are some decent camping spots at Buffalo Bill Reservoir Recreation Area), and loop around into Yellowstone via the extremely scenic Chief Joseph Highway.
East of The Tetons, Gros Ventre Slide and the lake it created might be of interest.
It will likely be brisk, at least at night.