What could be wrong with my car? Starter? Alternator?

I have a 1990 Toyota Corolla. Before you stop and say, “*That’s * what’s wrong with it,” let me point out that my previous car was also a 1990 Toyota Corolla with a great deal more mileage, and didn’t have these problems!

This car has 127,000 miles on it or so. (The old one was up to 192,00!) Here is the list of problems:

[ul]
[li]Doesn’t start reliably. Now, it’s not the battery, because the radio/clock and everything work, and it doesn’t make that ticking noise. Instead, when you turn it, sometimes it makes no noise. Doesn’t even try to start. So I thought it was a starter problem. After leaving the key in for a while, it usually starts. This happens seemingly randomly, when it’s cold or when it’s not, but mostly when it’s cold.[/li][li] Once it starts: If I don’t let it warm up for a period of time, it will stall out and stop. Sometimes while moving (albeit slowly). Once I stopped it to get gas at a station, and it wouldn’t start again. I had to push it out of the spot, park it, and wait. [/li][li]**Sometimes ** makes a strange squealing noise from the engine for anywhere from 10-30 seconds when it first starts up.[/li][/ul]

Other people tell me it’s the alternator. I don’t have money to take it in right now, anyway, it feels like throwing good money after bad. What do you guys think the problem could be?

I am not a mechanic. However, I’ve had a ton of various automotive repairs in my life. Having said that:

Maybe, maybe not. It takes very little juice to run the clock and radio. The battery could be in too bad shape to start up the car, but still have a enough life to run the radio and clock.

If your “igniter” is going bad, it will cause you to stall. In my experience, mine typically lasted a little over 100K miles. Just a possibility. As I said, IANAM.

Don’t know, but sometimes when the power steering is going bad, you can hear a squeal.

Usually, when your alternator starts going bad, your battery light will start coming on. However, my last alternator went bad before it got to that point, and the symptom was. . . a strange squealing sound.

You need a professional on-site diagnosis, hopefully one from someone you can trust. I once had a (heating/cooling) fan motor go bad, and the mechanic told me I needed to replace my AC compressor.:eek:

Sounds like three separate problems. The hard starting could be the starter, starter solenoid, battery or bad connections. The stalling could be anything from clogged fuel injectors to vacuum leaks to electrical issues. The squealing sounds most like loose or worn belts.

Well if you want to throw good money after bad, replace the alternator. It won’t fix you problem, but it will be good money spent.
Problems in order
1 Doesn’t start reliably. Look using the clock to gauge if the battery is good enough to start the car is just foolish. The clock uses say 10 milliamps (10/1000) of an amp, the starter uses say 100 Amps. The battery could well be way too dead to start the car, and the clock would work just fine. My first two guesses with no tests being done would be a bad battery, or poor connections at the battery. Are the battery terminals clean and tight, or do they have white/ green stuff growing on them? If they are dirty, I suggest that you clean them with some battery cleaner spray, and make sure they are tight (always remove the negative terminal first, before going near the positive terminal, and replace the positive first). A bad ignition switch or relay is also possible, but without some further testing, I would not know for sure. Do you have a voltmeter? I can recomond some tests if you do

2 Once it starts. Sounds like it has been a long time since the car was serviced. How old are the spark plugs, air filter, and alike? If I were going to shotgun this part of the problem, I would replace the plugs, air filter, cap rotor and spark plug wires. I would also check for and repair any vacuum leaks.

3 Sometimes. This one is easy, you probably need new drive belts. Tightening the old one might cure the noise, but could also lead to more noise, or a broken belt.

Well, the car has been serviced pretty regularly while I owned it (3 months) and while the person I got it from owned it (5 years). But the previous owner drove it really hard, and ran it into the ground, it seems.

Checked the battery while I was out at lunch, and found out that it’s only a year old and it looks fine, on a visual inspection.

But basically, judging from the amount of repairs suggested in this thread, I should just drive it over a cliff. :slight_smile: :wink:

NO! It’s still a good car. You can replace belts, plugs, wires, cap, rotor and air filter for about $75 in parts. battery probably another $40. Cost of Labor will vary from probably $240 (3 hrs @ $80/hr) to just one deep, passionate kiss or a twelve pack of Foster’s Lager. Depending on the damands of your mechanic. Simple stuff like the above is more along the lines of “will work for beer.” Think you can get the car to Denver anytime soon? :smiley:

Rick’s better 'n me on this kind of stuff, but I did once solve the starting problem you describe by replacing the starter. $125 or so for the part. The labor charge on this depends entirely on how difficult it is to change the part. usually along the lines of another 12 pack OR a soul kiss. Gropes are optional.

127k miles with poor mileage and performance probs could mean it’s time to replace oxygen sensors. $70 each, you’d have 1 or 2 of those and about 10-15 minutes each.

But all told you could get this thing running like a champ for $250 in parts and a day’s worth of Shade Tree Mechanic. 3-4 hours of real mechanic. Then your timing belt/chain will break and you’ll be looking for a cliff.

:laughing: Ok, Inigo, I won’t drive it off the cliff just yet. I figure, they’re dredging the Hudson soon anyway, so they might catch on real quick.

Anyway, it looks as though I will be getting a new starter, as it needs to be just a little more reliable. There is a garage nearby where they’re really nice about just listing the urgent problems as opposed to the rest, and they aren’t too condescending simply because I have very little idea what goes on under the hood.

Thanks, everyone!

I think this is dead-on correct.

I’m thinking it wouldn’t hurt to replace the spark plugs if it hasn’t been done for a long time. That’s generaly the cheapest and easiest thing to do, and it can’t hurt (unless you’re not careful and strip the threads).

[QUOTE=Anaamika]
[li]Doesn’t start reliably. Now, it’s not the battery, because the radio/clock and everything work, and it doesn’t make that ticking noise. Instead, when you turn it, sometimes it makes no noise. Doesn’t even try to start. So I thought it was a starter problem. After leaving the key in for a while, it usually starts. This happens seemingly randomly, when it’s cold or when it’s not, but mostly when it’s cold.[/li][/quote]

Additional bolding mine. That could be a faulty battery, poor battery cable connections, a faulty starter, a faulty ignition switch, a faulty neutral safety switch (automatic transmission) or faulty clutch starting switch (manual transmission). The choice is to either start replacing parts and see what works, or test it properly when the symptom occurs.

You have a masochist mechanic?

Igniter???

A visual inspection of a car battery is almost worthless.

I bought a factory new boat that came with a factory new battery. The battery was faulty, it was replaced the first week. It would start the motor but it had no Reserve Capacity. The Marine determine the battery to be faulty after they checked it with a battery tester.

[QUOTE=Anaamika]

[ul]

[QUOTE]
[li]Doesn’t start reliably. Now, it’s not the battery, because the radio/clock and everything work, and it doesn’t make that ticking noise. Instead, when you turn it, sometimes it makes no noise. Doesn’t even try to start. So I thought it was a starter problem. After leaving the key in for a while, it usually starts. This happens seemingly randomly, when it’s cold or when it’s not, but mostly when it’s cold.[/li][/QUOTE]
Take your car to an auto supply store like Pep-Boys, Auto-Zone, etc. They will TEST your battery at no charge. It could be low on water, poor contact connections etc. etc.

[QUOTE]
[li] Once it starts: If I don’t let it warm up for a period of time, it will stall out and stop. Sometimes while moving (albeit slowly). Once I stopped it to get gas at a station, and it wouldn’t start again. I had to push it out of the spot, park it, and wait. [/li][/QUOTE]
Plugs, dirty carburetor, fuel filter, etc. etc.

Belts, something needing oil.

With the engine running the auto store guys can tell you if it has proper output.

Lots of luck!

Toyota’s term for an electronic ignition module.

Bolding mine. Gotta be careful who you listen to. A lot of folks seem to equate “won’t start” with “alternator” (or “battery,” or whatever it was when their car wouldn’t start) without considering HOW it won’t start. What you’ve described (no response to key in “start” position, then suddenly works normally) is absolutely NOT indicative of an alternator problem.

Listen to GaryT. He knows what he’s talking about.

Can’t Get My Motor To Start

OK, if it can last me these next two weeks - and there’s no reason why it shouldn’t I drive it less than 15 miles a day and work days only - then I will take it into the shop early in the New Year. It seems like some of the problems are easily fixed at least, like a new starter (if it needs) new spark plugs, and check the battery and a new battery if I need it.

Thanks everyone for your help. I’m fairly ignorant about cars - I’m lucky I can chaneg my own tires and put air in them!

And let us know what they say.

(Well, it’s none of my business, really, but I’m always looking to learn).

Sure I will. Thanks. :smiley: