What is a good price to charge for hand sewing work?

In My Humble Opinion
1

Several years ago, I got into sewing. Since then, I’ve become quite adept at it and am now being commissioned by people. They give me either “I’ll buy the materials and pay for your time” or “can you use your fabric and I’ll pay you a fee?” ( in the case of a close friend who envied my fabric collection).

I’m honestly not sure what would be a good rate to charge, however. I do mostly decorative/household objects, but will do alterations or custom-fit simple clothing. How is this kind of work usually charged? It would be nice to have an answer if someone asked “How much do you charge for <insert object here>?”

Currently and until I can afford to fix my sewing machine, everything is hand-stitched. I also can do embroidery, but have no idea how that is charged, either. I need an idea of basic charges and a few specifics.

Any help, Dopers? My projects that need pricing:

-One hand-sewn skirt, 17" long, size 16 or thereabouts, a-line in medium-weight satin (provided) w/back zipper.

  • Four hand-sewn pillows of velvet, satin, and brocade, medium throw size. No embroidery, but decorative fabric designs and overlays.
  • Embroidered renditions of pen drawings w/color added. Ranges from very simple to elaborate.
2

Well, in general many sewing sites say that you should charge the cost of materials [including the cost of the pattern used] plus 200% - but that is for using a sewing machine.

When I do an elizabethan partlet with blackwork embroidery, and attatched small ruff I tend to charge about $175US
>>>>NOT MY WORK

Partlet

Which for me is essentially 2 hours an evening, watching TV for about 4 weeks, or 50-60 hours. Materials are about $20US unless I use actual bullion in the piece…

Bullion

at which point prices can go astronomical, as usually they are also paying for actual handkerchief weight linen, silk floss and real gold bullion, real seed pearls and possibly natural semiprecious gemstone beads.