To me, barbecue is the cooking method. The meat is unimportant. The sauce is unimportant. I’m a fan of pork, personally, but I enjoy the great barbecue traditions that involve beef and mutton, too. Chicken is also fine by me, but not what I usually think of when I think barbecue. I think of meats with a lot of collagen and connective tissue that is broken down by the low and slow cooking process.
To me, barbecue should be cooked in the general temperature range of 200-275F. It should be done over wood, usually indirectly, but not necessarily, as long as the temp is in the low range it’s fine. Now, ideally, for me that’s an all wood fire or lump charcoal with wood chunks or split logs. I’ve even made exceptions for all-charcoal barbecue (like Cozy Corner in Memphis. Even Payne’s in Memphis said they’re all charcoal, but I haven’t been able to confirm that.) Still, I think those are the outliers. Before I had gone to Cozy Corner, I would not have made this exception.
Also, when it comes to ribs: No boiling. No foiling. No “falling off the bone” ribs.
Sauce should just be an accent in barbecue, never what defines it. Good barbecue can have sauce, certainly. (And keep your friggin Liquid Smoke out of my sauce!!! If, for whatever reason, I need to buy a commercial barbecue sauce, I will disqualify every one that has LS in it. And that’s about 95% of the sauces out there.) But good barbecue should never need sauce. Oh, and there is absolutely nothing wrong with South Carolina’s mustard-based sauce, although my favorite for pulled pork is Eastern North Carolina’s vinegary finishing sauce. Mustard + pork is always a fantastic combination, and I don’t understand the hate. I once had a barbecue with all three Carolina traditions represented in terms of sauce (a Lexington-style thin tomato-based sauce, a vinegar-based sauce, and a mustard-based sauce.) The guest’s favorite was Lexington followed closely by the S.C. mustard sauce. My favorite finished a very distant third.
As for local barbecue, what defines the Chicago South and West Side barbecue traditions is the following: Spare ribs, ribs tips, and hot links (Mississippi, not Texas style–think spicy pork breakfast sausages in hog casings). Chicago barbecue is generally cooked on the hotter side of the barbecue range (in the 250-300 area), usually over pure wood in what’s known as an aquarium smoker. The only place I’ve seen this outside of Chicago is at Cozy Corner in Memphis. The sauce is generally not too sweet and usually has a bit of a clove kick to it. It’s also traditional to serve it in a styrofoam clamshell container with greasy steakcut fries, two slices of white bread, and the tiniest container of coleslaw. See here for a typical pictures (coleslaw not included, but would come in the same container as the sauce.)
As for the best barbecue I’ve ever had, it’s the pulled pork sandwich from Morris Grocery in Eads, TN. Seriously, if you are ever in the Memphis area, trek out the extra 40 minutes to Eads. It’s well worth it. I still dream of that pulled pork sandwich.