What is the straight dope on replacing brake rotors?

Everytime I take a car to the shop and it needs brakes, they also tell me it needs new rotors.

As a West Virginia boy (who is not a mechanic) I take it to my redneck friends who show me that this is bullshit, that they are just discs that new pads alone will do fine.

If they are damaged, they tell me to “cut” or “turn” them and they are as good as new and that these shops are trying to rip me off.

What is the straight dope? When do I need just pads? When can I cut the rotors? When do I need new rotors?

I don’t know what kind of car you drive, but if the state of your rotor surface is such that they need to be turned, I would recommend you replace them. On most cars, you can replace all four for well under $300. Rotors don’t need changing every time you change your brake pads but, again, depending on the type of car you drive and whether you wait until the brake pads are down to metal on metal, changing them every other time you change pads is usually safe. Turning rotors that are gouged and worn can make them too thin to withstand the heat and friction, leading to warping or cracking.

It’s a 2017 Kia Sorento. 83,000 miles. I have never replaced the pads or rotors. Couldn’t believe it has lasted this long.

Shouldn’t be anything wrong with turning them for less money than new, so long as they’re not warped and will be above minimum thickness once the operation is complete.

To answer your questions with the rules I use for my ow vehicles. You need just pads if the just the pads are worn down. You can just cut the rotors if they run true and got enough meat left on them. You need new rotors if they’re warped or worn to far down to turn.

I tend to operate on redneck logic though. Maybe new is better in this situation, but I dont know if it’s better enough for the cost.

I’ve never had a redneck tell me that the rotors are bad. He spits tobacco into an empty water bottle and says:

Redneck: Look at that. Do you see anything wrong with that rotor?

Me: *squinting and also not knowing what the hell I am looking at. No.

Redneck: Exactly. It’s perfect. We’ll just put some pads on and you take those rotors back to Autozone and get your money back. *spits in water bottle.

Me: Yes. I will.

That is the extent of my automotive knowledge about brakes and rotors.

You can turn rotors until they get too thin.
Turning them is nice - it provides a clean, rough surface for the new pads to seat to, but if the rotors aren’t warped, and are not terribly ridged, you really don’t need to turn them - the pads will wear into the rotors pretty quickly.

I’m not a mechanic but I’ve had a rotor fail outright. The failure was a rust fracture and a chunk of the rotor came loose. There was no warning. You couldn’t see any indication of it on the surface. Imagine hitting your brakes and a rotor shatters.

Rotors are relatively cheap so I replace them as the car ages even if they are still within spec.

Unless you have something rare or exotic the cost of new rotors is about the same as turning a used rotor. Some shops I think don’t even have the equipment to turn rotors or drums anymore.

In the old days, brake rotors used to be relatively thick. They did not warp easily, and if you ran your brake pads down to metal all you needed to do was turn the rotors to smooth them out and you were good to go.

These days, many cars have very thin rotors, so that they can shave every last ounce of weight off of the car (as well as every fraction of a cent in metal cost). They warp more easily if you are hard on the brakes, and if you wear your pads down to metal you’ll gouge the rotors bad enough that they won’t be able to be turned and still be within spec for how thick they need to be to be functional.

So, your mechanic isn’t necessarily ripping you off.

However, even with today’s thinner rotors, it’s still very unusual to need new ones with every brake change, unless you are doing something unusual. 83,000 miles is a very long way to go on a single set of brake pads unless you do a lot of highway driving with very little braking. Most cars are set up with little metal tabs on the brake pads. When you wear the pads down far enough the tab will scrape and make a noise. If you don’t change the pads then, you run the risk of wearing the pads completely down to metal, at which point they gouge the rotors.

Do your brakes pulse when you step on them? If you do a lot of hard stopping (long hills, city traffic, etc) then all of that heat generated could cause the rotors to warp.

If the rotors are gouged, the brakes will usually work fine with new pads, but you will wear through the pads VERY quickly, and possibly unevenly. The right side might wear significantly faster than the left, for example. If the rotors are warped, your brakes may feel like they are pulsing, and the car may want to pull towards one side whenever you brake.

Since bad rotors will very quickly damage new brake pads, most mechanics aren’t going to honor the warranty on new pads if the mechanics says you need new rotors and you don’t replace or turn them.

As I said though, needing both new pads and new rotors every time you go to the shop is unusual. You should go through many sets of pads before you need new rotors. If you aren’t gouging or warping the rotors, it might be time to find a new brake shop.

ETA: If you don’t know what you are looking for, rotor damage may not be all that visible if you are just looking at the rotors. Run your hand over the surface of the rotors. If you feel grooves, then they are gouged and you need to turn or replace them. You can usually feel warped rotors when you apply the brakes. The brakes will either pulse or pull the car to one side (note - other things can also make a car pull to the side, not just warped rotors). Just looking at the rotors isn’t a good test.

He he. Yeah, my redneck buddy says that “them new pads 'll find a new home quick.” :slight_smile:

It sounds like you drive a lot of highway miles. Having the pads last for 83,000 miles is quite unusual so my guess is that you are also not a very aggressive driver. The shop can measure the tolerance on the rotors and tell you if they are within mfr. spec. So if the surface is otherwise good and there is no warping, a new set of pads will seat within a few hundred miles to any mild concentric irregularities on the surface. If they are out of spec, you’ll have no choice but to replace them. Honestly, the cost in labor to turn them is not worth it. A new set of rotors and pads for your car is $200-$300 at Autozone. For peace of mind, just replace everything and get on with your life. A mechanic will appreciate the relative lack of fuss in replacing it all with brand new parts rather than having to screw around with machining old rotors.

I’ve never turned a rotor. Always been cheaper to buy new ones. And on your Kia, 83k doesn’t surprise me. Had a Nissan go 120 before needing new pads. Got a Suzuki with 88k and the pads are fine. I swap snow tires on this car, so check them twice a year.

I’m half-way through replacing all four brake rotors on my 2010 Kia Soul.
One rotor was badly warped, and the brakes were pulsing. Getting the rusted rotors off,
especially the retainer screws required special tools and added words to my vocabulary.

I’m half-way through replacing all four brake rotors on my 2010 Kia Soul.
One rotor was badly warped, and the brakes were pulsing. Getting the rusted rotors off,
especially the retainer screws required special tools and added words to my vocabulary.

He used a bottle? I just did some brakes today and helped my brother with a set last weekend. I spit on the ground both times, amateurs.