What's causing this refrigerator problem?

A few weeks ago, water started accumulating at the bottom of my refrigerator interior, on the bottom shelf and in crisper drawers.

Now the freezer is extra cold, with “frost” covering the stuff in freezer.

I checked in the rear: The black cylindrical thing at the bottom, brand label “Embraco,” is very warm.

The refrig brand is Roper; it’s at least 15-yrs-old [was here when I moved into this rental]. The temp setting is a shade below “Normal,” which is where I’ve always had it.

Is this problem fixable, or is it time for a new refrigerator?

Thanks for tips!

I would guess the thermostat is faulty, and is running the compressor constantly. The black cylinder will be the compressor motor, which is why it is warm.
If you’re a bit handy with a screwdriver you may well be able to locate and remove the thermostat, then take it to a repair shop and see if they can find you an equivalent. It’s probably located behind the temperature knob, getting it off may be simple or a pain in the arse, depending on how your fridge was built, I’ve never heard of the brand myself.
Out of interest, if you turn the temperature right up, to the lowest setting, does the compressor turn off? You can usually hear it running, if not then leave it for an hour or so (depends how warm your house is) and see if the motor cools down.

Perhaps the drain is plugged. If this is a frost-free unit, water generally goes down the back wall of the fridge and through a hole in the bottom into a collection pan where it evaporates. If the hole is plugged, moisture will evaporate inside the box instead and condense on other surfaces. Also, if the freezer is overly full, and the weep hole is blocked, frost may develop.

Stat will not cause the problem you are discribing.

It sounds like the drain to the evaporator (cold) coil. Frost will build up on the coil, then the frig will go into a defrost cycle. Compressor shuts off and a heating rod will go on melting the frost (ice). There should be a catch basin under the coil to collect the water. The water should then go down the drain to outside the cold space.

If the darin gets plogges then the water has no place to go. The drain pan over flows and you get water at a low point. Also the humity in the unit can be high, so in the freezer section Ice will form as frost on frozen food.

The drain line should come out of the unit some where and empty into a pan at the bottom outside of the unit. Some times you can blow back up the line and temporary clear the drain. The next choice is taking apart the insides and cleaning it.

It could be as simple as a bad door seal.
My fridge had the same symptoms, and it turned out that he door was “tweaked” so the seal wasn’t sealing at one corner.

Easy enough to check…

Some times you can not see the forest for the trees. Look for the simple thhing first. Ya like a tweaked door.

Hmmm…sounds somehow familiar.

I assume it is a “frost free” fridge.

These have a timer. The older ones, this was a circular motorized device that switched between cooling and a short bout of heating to melt away the ice on the cooling coils. If the cooling coils ice up to the point where ice accumulates thickly on and around the cooling coils, then you have a timer problem.

As the problem continues (a bit more condensation every time the door is opened) eventually the ice coils become completely, solidly frozen over. Modern fridges (i.e. if it’s square, not the rounded corner thing from the 50’s) the cooler is kept cool by a fan that blows the inside air over the coils. (Temp regulated by turning that fan on and off). Once the airway over the coils is completely blocked, the next symptom of a bum timer is that the fridge (not freezer) part stops being cold.

(If you are really unlucky, the timer stops on the “melt” part of the cycle. You know this right away because the freezer actually becomes very warm. I have seen a couple of fridges where this happened.)

Water accumulates in the bottom of the fridge (then runs out the bottom of the door and ruins the floor tiles, speaking from experience) This is caused by 2 options. Either a LOT of water accumulates… The melt cycle is still working but the drain is plugged with fuzz, onion skin, and other debris. Or… the icing on the coils has frozen the drain and condensation is running down inside the fridge instead.

If the drain is plugged with crud, use a pipe cleaner to take it out. Usually the drain comes out the back, between the freezer compartment and the cooler; it attaches to a clear tube that runs the water to a big flat pan under the fridge, where heat from the compressor is blown across the pan to evaporate it. If you need to poke crud out from the inside, many fridges you unscrew the floor of the (top) freezer compartment and lift out the metal floor, the foam pieces, and there’s the cooling coils (or a giant lump of ice). If you feel the urge to help along nature, be sure whatever melting you use does not also melt the styrofoam!

If it’s the timer (sounds like it is) just note the make and model, go to the repair depot (i.e. Sears if it’s one, an appliance repair store, etc.) buy a new one, and replace it. (what, about $20?) It’s on the back, bolted down near the compressor at the bottom. The electrical contacts are usually slide-ons.

My suggestion - do this:
Empty the freezer and uncover the cooling coils.
if it’s a mass of solid ice, you need a new timer. Replace it.
If the coils are clear, the timer defrost is working, locate the drain hole.
Pull the tube off the back, poke the blockage out the drain from inside with a pipe cleaner.

Oh, BTW, when working with electricity and motors, UNPLUG IT FIRST!!!
If all this confuses you, call a repairman.

trust me it works, just did mine…

Interesting. In that set of photos, it looks like the cooling coils etc. are vertical behind the back wall of the freezer; in the 2 or 3 fridges I fiddled with, the cooling coils were buried below the freezer floor above the cooling compartment.

My current fridge has a pull-out drawer freezer on the bottom, haven’t had to look for the layout on it - hopefully not for another few decades… :slight_smile:

Yes, it’s possible it’s as simple as the ice does not get a chance to melt. Or, it could be crud blown into the cooling coil area by the fan, blocking drainage enough so it freezes.

Cleaning the drain (after defrost) is the quickest cheapest fix. If it still freezes up after that, then look to replace the timer.

Exactly what happened to me. I took everything out to another fridge, opened the door and unplugged it for a day. The drain hole still froze up later. (Landlord furnished a new one.)

I have the same problem with a Frigidaire. Unfortunately, the back is sealed so I cannot access any possible problems there. :frowning:

I’ve had water and ice problems when there was a puncture in the wall and the insulation got wet and failed.
The puncture was caused by me chipping ice off the wall with an ice pick.
It eventually got fixed when I unplugged it and let it sit a couple of days, then duct taped the hole.
Not a recommended method, but it was my old basement machine.

Thanks for good info–I’ll try to fix using my modest DIY skills before I call landlord.

also not recommended because you can puncture the refrigerant channels in the freezer wall and turn the device into junk. use only nonsharp wood or plastic and little force. a fan blowing room air into it works real well.

As a former student landlord, used to second hand fridges and problems, the very first line of attack is always unplug it for a day, then plug it back in. Seriously, this will often solve the problem. Will it develop again? It could. But it’s a pretty easy fix to try.

Do return and tell us how it goes!

Hey man, I’ve got a week’s supply of DiGiorno frozen pizzas in there! Will they survive this cold-deprivation experiment?

Couple of bags of ice are cheaper than a repair man, it’s only 24hrs, after all!

ice will keep cold. it won’t keep stuff frozen for long, even with replenishment of the ice.

Yep - we had exactly this happen a few months back. The instructions in the fridge manual said to use a baster to squirt a water / baking soda solution (not sure why the baking soda) into the hole and repeat several times until it went down through the hole easily.

The OP’s problem is on the fridge, but depending on the configuration it could conceivably be the problem.

Our fridge is a similar age (installed in 1996).