What's up in Edinburgh?

In My Humble Opinion
21

I had a “native guide” when I went, and we had quite a good time. Hired a taxi to the Edinburgh quay, and we walked up the street, dodging into every little pub for a few samples of their whiskey.

She did tell me, that if she walked into a place, and then she walked right back OUT again, to follow her. Apparently, there are some local places where the regulars would rather keep it that way than waste benches on tourists. That’s perfectly fine; I can even understand the point of view - strangers at the party being acceptable really depends on what sort of party it is.

There was one place with a 4 piece band playing 'round the table, and they were TRULY wonderful. I heard after they were making records, and of no little fame, but here they were in the pub, playing for their beers. It was a grand time; I think we stayed there listening and drinking for about two hours before I had to give up. Never try to outdrink anyone in Europe; they all have more practice (well, at least a lot more than I did).

Glasgow was crowded, downtown, like New York, and the prices were so rich I didn’t even buy anything there. I drove around up to Oban, and back, but the nicest time I had was a stop overnight at a Bed & Breakfast on the shore of Loch Lomond (and it is one of the prettiest lakes THERE). Fourteen pounds fifty for a bed in a room to myself, with a TV, and use of the home’s shower. (My company-paid hotel room in an “Americanized” hotel was 180 pounds or more a night. :eek:) Then, breakfast served in 5 courses the next morning, taken alone in the formal dining room on this lady’s best silver, china, and crystal… not to mention the GORGEOUS Irish tatted lace tablecloth. It was NOT machine-made.

Whatever you do, do something where you can meet the people in a friendly way. They’re some of the most interesting, and if respectfully approached, nice people I’ve ever visited.

22

Man, y’all are giving me more than I could have hoped for.

False_God, sorry for the ignorance, but is Leith a suburb of Edinburgh or a nearby city? Since we won’t have a car, is it within walking distance.

Aghris, so is Niddrie worth a visit? You said don’t go through in late afternoon or night, but how about earlier?

ticker, tell your mom that if some American shows up on her doorstep, it’s your fault.

ruadh, so I guess that I should cheer for Hibs. Thanks for the tip, I’ll be sure to find a pub with the game on.

BTW, we’re flying into Edinburgh.

Thanks to everybody for the info. If you think of anything else, let me know.

23

Leith is a northern suburb of Edinburgh - basically, the docks, before they were partly “yuppified”. Still a bit dodgy in places.

Don’t know much about Niddrie, but like any big city, just be careful - no obvious cameras, wallets etc.

Scots take football very seriously - more so in Glasgow than in Edinburgh (religious connotations), but even so be careful. The two big teams in Edinburgh are Hearts (Heart of Midlothian FC) and Hibs (Hibernian FC), one each at the east and west end of Princes Street (more or less). Hearts are traditionally the more middle-class team, but this season Hibs are doing very well indeed. Both sets of fans hate each other with a passion. It’s not a problem in the city centre, which is as cultured a place as anywhere, and has a very large student population, but in the suburbs pick your allegiances carefully!

24

Yes, as noted, Leith is quite close to Auld Reekie proper. Buses go from city centre, or if you’re feeling ambitious, it is technically possible to walk.

BTW,Trainspotting was set in Leith, Edinburgh, and Niddrie all together, and filmed there as well (and, of course, London.

Actually, I’m surprised no-one’s mentioned the joys of chippies, especially for walking around with. Get either the cod, smoked cod, or, if you’re feeling adventurous, Mars Bar dinner. They put Mars Bars, Snickers etc. in fish batter and fry it. Sounds awful, but is actually pretty good. Also, in the cuisine department, definitely try haggis and both black and white puddings. These last are an essential part of a proper breakfast, also called a “fry-up”. Proper one will contain bacon, egg, sausage, tomato, beans, chips and black and white puddings. Toast or tattie (potato) scones on the side, along with about five mugs of tea. Heart attack on a plate, and it tastes best after a night on the jar.

Oh, by the bye, look for Enigma lager in the off-licences (liquor stores, called “offies”). Almost the best lager I’ve ever tasted.
Do not, on pain of death, drink Tennent’s Super Lager (Purple Tin). It’s marketed to raving alcoholics and is “fortifed lager”. Fortified with grain alcohol and animal tranquilizers, it is.

25

as FG mentioned, there is some good food to be had, but for goodness sake avoid all the eateries on the Royal Mile they are nothing but touristy bilge, go down into town for food. Scotland is the only place I know where one can get a deep fried pizza at a chip shop – but I’d stick with the cod if I were you.

And I have to climb on the ‘icy windtrap’ band wagon as well. Once I added a nice wooly scarf to my sweater/ski jacket ensemble I was okay, but the wind there is an old pro at finding the chinks in your armor.

26

Three words- bring toilet paper :slight_smile:

Maybe it was just an off week for good ol’ Edinburgh, but I swear to God 9 out of 10 times I was poop outta luck, so to speak.

Otherwise, pretty amazing place.

Kind of an overall depressing feeling though from many of the locals.Lots of real young kids in some of the pubs. Spoke to some of 'em and was jokingly asked “Why’d the fuck ya come here? If ya got the money, whyn’t ya go ta Jamaica, or somewheres warm? I woundn’t come here if I had the chance.”

And just to reiterate, it IS cold and blustery. Was there in late May and I was wishing I had my wool cap and gloves.

Just seeing the castle made it all worthwhile though. So beautiful and striking.

Greyfriar’s Bobby is an ok place to have a pint. If you happen to meet a sweet, blonde waitress there named George, tell her Brian from Boston says hi!

Oh, I almost forgot, there was more than a few monuments to fallen soldiers there. Every other statue seemed like a testiment to yet another battle lost.
Seems like everyone short of Rhode Island has come charging through poor Endinburgh at one time or another.