The only thing I sharpen these days are the edges of skis.
For kitchen work, I prefer cheap serrated knives over expensive smooth ones. So not much need to sharpen.
Way long ago in my checkered past I was a machinist.
Every machinist knows how to hand sharpen drill bits at a bench grinder, no jigs needed.
I don’t do so. Ever.
The fact of the matter is, unless you are working with a 1" drill bit, they are so inexpensive that it is not worth anyone’s time to try to sharpen them. Nobody really needs to waste time trying to sharpen a 1/4" drill bit, trying to get the point properly centered and so on. Just grab a new one.
I keep packets of 5 each of the most common ones (that is, any bit in my drill index that I have ever broken).
Pretty much none of the number drills in a drill index are worth sharpening.
With that said, everyone should know how to do it, especially because there are times when a special edge is needed (e.g. drilling brass or lead).
To answer the OP, in this field the cost of labor vs. the cost of tooling probably shifted, making it more cost effective to just replace the bits rather than try to reuse the old one.
Are you a snow-themed Bond-villain / assassin with a penchant for elaborate murder methods involving unexpectedly-deadly winter sports equipment? If you are, you have to tell us.
I forgot about sharpening bits for the reasons you outlined. Last time I did so was around 1991.
Another thing is that scissors could be unscrewed to allow each blade to be sharpened separately. Now, I think, many are riveted together so it’s not possible to separate them and I don’t think it’s easy to sharpen them.
Basically, yeah. If scissors can be sharpened, they’ll still be held together with a removable pivot screw. (I have a fairly recently-made pair of fingernail scissors that can be unscrewed, because they’re all-metal and could definitely be sharpened.) Most scissors these days can’t be, though, so to make that clear they don’t even bother to tempt you with a screw.
I have a pair of OXO kitchen scissors that are held together with a sort of bayonet mechanism, so they can easily be separated, though that’s mostly for cleaning than sharpening.
My lawyer advises me not to answer this question. 
I’m not sure how much it matters at the skill levels we’re at, but if you’re already doing your own waxing, it’s very easy to sharpen the edges at the same time.
The way my dad sharpened skis, you risked losing a finger carrying them if you weren’t wearing gloves. Nice on an icy day, though.
Are you sure?
A lot of larger scissors with a bolt & captive nut can be separated and reconnected. The nut is a bit out of round which is what lets you adjust the tension just right and have that tension hold. It’s not simply cranking the bolt down to tight.
For fingernail scissors I’ve certainly seen the little screw which runs through a non-interference shaft hole in one half then into a threaded capture hole in the other half. Which is also a bit out of round (or was staked at the factory) to give the locking effect at the correct tension.
But there’s very little “meat” on those threads. You certainly can disassemble the scissors. Whether they’ll go back together and lock at all, much less reliably at the correct tension is very much another question. Something I’ve learned the hard-ish way on a bunch of different products with what appear to be reusable fasteners but which are really assemble-and-adjust-once-at-the-factory fasteners.
I think that’s specifically old maple. As I understand it, there’s resin in the wood that hardens with age, over the course of decades. And a lot of my carving experience has been with black walnut, which is even harder than oak. Of course, in the long run, carving hardwood is much easier than softwood, because it’s too easy to ruin a softwood piece by cutting a little too much somewhere.
Though, most of my carving is also with just a pocketknife, not the larger or more specialized tools. What maintenance a drawknife needs, for instance, is not within my experience.
Drawknives are fun, you really feel like a pre-electric craftsman as you shape things up with them.
Last year I fixed a bench with crapped out wood slats by replacing with cypress. The front slat was going to be uncomfortable unless I tapered it. So rather than a power sander or power planer, I just got out my best drawknife and had it shaped in minutes looking really nice.
Bonus, I now had fire starter for the fire pit. Those shaving are they best for starting a fire.
Building oars and sprits was far more work but in the end very gratifying.
I have one of those 115 piece drill indexes, like this one: https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2826&category=-456343308
Any machinist will acquire one of those sooner or later since it has everything you need in one handy place (or you could buy separate fractional, wire gauge, and letter sets…that’s for the guys who probably have a set of left-handed bits too).
Mine has cheap gold-finish drill bits that break if you don’t use them gently. As such, I have broken many of them over the years, replacing them either with silver or black bits of much higher quality.
So my drill index looks like it has the gap-toothed smile of a meth addict!
At least it is full and all of the important ones are high quality.
There’s a lot of wisdom to that approach.
Be careful not to pull too hard on a drawknife. That’s what happened to my half-brother.
Well… S’funny you should mention it. Shortly after I posted that, I got idly curious about disassembling the scissors. So I reached for one of my jeweler’s drivers and set about removing said “screw”…
Yeah, not so much, as it turns out. What did happen is that the (ostensible) screwhead immediately began tearing its slot wide open. But the “screw” never budged.
So now I’m wondering if that even really is a screw, or if it’s simply a rivet with a purely-decorative slot in the head to make it look like a screw, in service of some sort of “scissors aesthetic”. Which is some bullllll-shit, if so.
The stamp on one of the scissor-legs claims they’re Italian-made, not Chinese. (No offense to the Chinese; I think we all understand the role our respective countries’ consumer-goods industries play in all this.) But at this point, who knows? Maybe that’s merely an aesthetic fiction as well!
…I really freaking hate late-stage, post-Milton-Friedman capitalism.
I’m sure he’s all right now.
Or it’s how he became a half-brother.
IME it really is a screw that really goes into a threaded hole in the lower scissor arm. But …
At the factory they tighten the screw the right amount until the blades scrape against each other correctly. Not too much gap; also not so tight they’re hard to move.
Then they whack the bottom of the screw with a hammer, in effect transforming the tip of the screw and the hole it threaded into a smashed-head rivet.
Yet another [assemble it once then it’s disposable] consumer product.
I don’t have a factual answer, but IIRC, Moxon’s and Roubo’s texts were targeting the hobby woodworker, or the interested casual, not the journeymen, apprentices, and other levels of the professional woodworking set. So those texts may be limited in sharpening content because that was work for the apprentices and not as “interesting” for their books.
Again, that’s a hunch. And welcome to woodworking, it’s a rewarding hobby!
An aside to the talk about sharpening in the modern day, as I got into woodworking and learning how to sharpen, it occurred, embarrassingly late, to me that my skills in the shop could be applied to my kitchen knives. No more would I need to semi-freeze chicken breasts to cut them into medallions. 