Why did I get declined???

So I just got declined for a credit card…No big deal. But the reasons they gave are really odd. According to the letter I was declined for four reasons:
Insufficient average length of credit history
Insufficient number of inactive credit card accounts
Lack of mortgage accounts or insufficient balance for mortgage trades
Insuffcient number of accounts with large Credit/High Credit.

Well the first one I understand. But the rest are really strange. Why are the worried about how many inactive accounts I have? Why would I get declined for not having a mortgage account? And lastly I thought a reason for being declined was that you have to much credit already, so why would I get declined for not have enough high credit accounts? I’ll have to go back to where I applied and see if I applied for some wierd card that’s got some strange requirements or something.

Once my parents were declined for a credit card (they have ample cash and other credit cards, but always pay them off every month). The reason boiled down to the fact that since they have a history of paying everything off every month, the company figured they wouldn’t make a profit off of them.

The first one is obvious: If you don’t have an established credit history, then they don’t know if you are a good credit risk.

Insufficient number of inactive credit card accounts: Could that tie into the first one? That is, how many credit cards do you have? If you don’t have any, then there is no history of how well you pay.

Lack of mortgage accounts or insufficient balance for mortgage trades: I’m guessing that if you don’t have credit cards, the issuer will check to see if you have a mortgage. If you have a mortgage that you are paying on, that will provide them with a history of your payment practices.

Insuffcient number of accounts with large Credit/High Credit.: It sounds to me as if they’re saying, “This guy doesn’t have enough cards with a high credit limit. If we give him a high-limit card, how do we know he’ll be able to pay?”

My first credit card had an $800 limit. I also had about $1,000 in the bank. After using that card and paying on it, I was able to get higher limits. When I got my first car loan, my dad co-signed. Paying that off showed that I paid my bills. What the issuer is looking for is evidence that you pay credit when it is extended to you. It’s sort of a Catch 22. You need to show that you have a credit history in order to get the means to build a credit history. You can get a secured card to help build your history, and that might make things easier. You also build credit history by paying your utility bills. (Some people think it’s okay to let them slide, but the phone company, gas company, electric company, etc. do keep tabs on how well you pay and report that information to the credit agencies.)

I work in business credit and not consumer credit. Also, I just look at the data to get it into the database; I don’t make decisions based upon it. Basically, it works like this: There is an account balance bucket that shows how much you owe. There are terms associated with the loan; say, “NET 30” or “Net due within 30 days”. There is a “Current” or “Current & Future” bucket that shows the amount of the balance that is within the terms of the loan. (i.e., it’s not due yet.) Then there are buckets for 01-30 days beyond terms (DBT), 31-60 DBT, 61-90 DBT, and Over-90 DBT (or 91-120 and 120+).

Say I’m Joe’s Pool Service and I want to buy a large amount of chemicals for my business from Freddie’s Chemical Supplies. Freddie’s say’s, “Hm. This guy wants $10,000 of chemicals. Let’s pull a credit report.” They look at the report and they see that you (as a business) have purchased various pool supplies from a number of vendors in the past, and that you have mostly paid within 30 days. Maybe you were late once or twice, but your report shows that you are a good risk. They might say, “Okay. Let’s let him buy the chemicals and pay us within 30 days.” (i.e., they give you a 30-day loan.) But what if you have not been in business for very long, or you have a history of putting off paying for your supplies for a few months? Freddie’s might say, “This guy pays slowly. We’ll sell him $10,000 of chemicals, but the terms have to be Cash In Advance (CIA) or COD,” or , “This guy is new in the business. We don’t know if he’ll be around in two months. We’ll sell to him with terms = PREPAID until we establish a relationship.”

I don’t interact with our consumer credit division, but I assume it works the same way. Credit cards generally have terms like “3% within 25 days” instead of “CIA”. If you don’t have an established credit history, it’s kind of hard to adjust the terms. The only thing they can do is either deny the application or lower their risk (credit limit).

Do you have established credit? If not, were you applying for a high-limit card?

Oh, another thing: I once received a notice that I had been declined for a credit card – but I had never applied for that card! I got a credit report and found that someone with the same name as mine who lives in the same area had his credit information merged with mine. I called the 800-number and went over the report with the representative. They sent out a new report free-of-charge that showed that the problem was resolved.

Everyone should get his credit report regularly just to make sure that his information is not merged with someone else’s. (Ironically, I never seem to get around to getting my own.)

Here’s a link: Experian

You’re pretty lucky Johnny L.A.
I BELIEVE the common term for that is a “married” account. I can provide the cite if you wish, but I’m not looking it up unless you request it, but a woman in CA had her report married to someone with crappy credit, and the credit agency involved didn’t seem to care (After all, we’re not their customers, the creditors are).

Anyway, long story short, she couldn’t buy a house, and for something like 5 or 10 years, they sat on their hands about it. Eventually she sued, and recieved a rather hefty (over 1Mil, I believe) settlement.

I’m glad it was a lot easier for you to get rid of the married record than it was for her.

Steve

Insufficient average length of credit history
Insufficient number of inactive credit card accounts

You’ve never had a credit card before, and they can’t be sure you’ll be able to pay your card mothlies. They don’t want risk, they want sure things - you’re not a sure thing.

Lack of mortgage accounts or insufficient balance for mortgage trades
Insuffcient number of accounts with large Credit/High Credit.

They might consider giving you a card if you were to immediately transfer a large debt onto the card, thus giving them big fat monthly interest payments. But you don’t have much debt so not only are you a bad risk, you won’t make them any money either.

Short form: Credit card companies are greedy and won’t give you a card unless they think you’re going to spend a lot on it and run high balances (= lots of interest for them).
-Ben

IIRC, credit card companies (such as Visa and MasterCard) make 3% on every transaction. Of course, they’ll make more money if they’re collecting the initial 3% and [insert APR here] on balances not yet paid.

Actually, Visa and Mastercard charge a fee of under 2% to retailers, depending on the specific deal you have and processor you use. IIRC the processor my boss uses charges us something like 1.79%- I would imagine someplace like Wal-Mart gets it down in the 1.4-1.5% range. American Express and Discover charge closer to 3%, which is why they aren’t as widely accepted by merchants. 1.5% is money, but if you don’t charge enough its probably barely enough to cover sending out the statement & run the network…

The easiest way to get a credit card is to already have credit cards, as pointed out. Ironic really - like trying to get an Equity card in the UK (you can only get it if you work professionaly as an actor, but you can’t work professionally as an actor until you get it).

I don’t know your circumstances, but the easiest route might be to apply for a credit card linked in or branded with your existing bank account. Arrange to pay the credit card by automatic monthly debits from your current account (or a regular percentage of the credit card). AFAIK you will still get run through the checks, but it should be easier to get a card your bank is pushing at you.