If the drain from you evaporator coils is plugged it will cause the problems you are describing. You can speed up the defrosting by using a heat gun or a hair dryer. You are going to need expose the evaporator coils. That will mean taking all the proper sidings off. Locate where the condensate drain is and check to see if it is plugged. Poor some warm water down the drain to be sure it will drain.
You might also want to check the cal rod to make sure it si working.
It is. But the black bears and bobcats keep stealing all my bison steaks. Jerks. That’s why we’re forced to keep our groceries indoors most of the time. Plus, you always forget which snowbank you put the Revellos and they make a mess in the Spring.
I had a repairman come out three times trying to fix my refrigerator for the same problem. He gave up and told me what he believes the root cause, he also did not charge me for all the work (and he did a lot). Older refrigerators had open evaporator coils that would allow you to recharge the unit, this also allowed them to backflush the coils to remove any blockages. Now all units are closed to avoid releasing freon and damaging the ozone. Now if a coil get clogged it stays clogged and part of the system stops working below the clogged area and cause ice build up.
I have no specific suggestions but I had a problem that may or may not be related, also with an LG refrigerator. I’m not particularly happy with it but it came with the house and it works well enough that it hasn’t risen in the list of priorities to replace. But for a while there was periodically water dripping out of the freezer compartment (which in this one is at the top) into the fridge section. The first time the water settled on top of a plastic container so no harm done, but later I put a small tray there and it would happen occasionally.
My theory was that it happened on the defrost cycle and was likely caused by the drainage hole(s) being frozen over. I was going to check it out but ended up moving the freezer contents around over time and maybe because of that, plus further defrost cycles, the frozen drain outlets must have cleared themselves because the problem went away has not occurred since.
That may not be applicable to your situation which sounds quite a bit more extreme. Still, you might consider completely defrosting the entire fridge if you have an alternate place for the contents. That would clear out any frozen blockages. An overfull freezer blocking air vents or drain holes may also cause problems. If you thoroughly defrost and the problem happens again you’ve at least confirmed that you have a mechanical problem with the fridge itself.
Why did I have to de-ice my freezer with a hammer?
You didn’t have to and shouldn’t. You can cause serious damage. I have had much experience with non-frost free refrigerators and chest freezers. The way you deal with the ice is to turn it off and take out all the frozen stuff and set a huge pot of hot water inside and shut the door. This will rot the ice so it comes off easily. Use only a plastic spatula as a tool. You may have to do this more than once, so get more than one pot heating on the stove.
Northern Piper,
Thanks to you and all the others, your topic on ice buildup saved me a whole lot of time on removal of the ice jam.
I had read this topic a few days ago, and this morning I found I had the same problem with my four door Samsung.
with everyone’s input, I looked like a pro.
Cleared the ice after watch a YouTube video, it showed the process of “force defrost“ on this model, did that twice, doing that made it simple. Tools required was a butter knife.
The problem comes the ice buildup, slowly building up, keeping the same contour as the base. Slowly building up til it’s to thick to close the bottom drawer “freezer section” won’t close.
By Just doing a visual, you can’t really tell if it’s an ice problem because it has a contour all nice and smooth.
With the forced defrost, the ice loosely removed.
I had frost in my freezer-- turns out a heating element was broken. I mostly used time to defrost but did use a hot air popcorn popper to help it along.
It would depend on the wattage of the bulb you were able to find. The big problem would be to figure out a way to keep it turned on when the door is shut…