So I really, really need to put a hitch cargo carrier on my 1991 Dodge Caravan if at all possible (here’s a picture of it.) This is a more heavy-duty carrier, but even the very light ones all say that they require a Class III towing hitch.
Why is this?? There is no way I’d have 5000 or even anywhere near 500 pounds on that hitch. Does it have something to do with the distribution of the weight being so different from what it is with a regular trailer? Does that somehow mean that the actual cargo carrier counts as being more weight than a trailer would, and how could you possibly figure that out? Basically, it just does not make sense to me that I need that kind of towing hitch when I wouldn’t put anything on there that’s even 1/10th of the weight it’s rated for. We need to know the answer soon!!! So thanks to all the very very smart people here, in advance.
In a practical sense, no, you don’t need a class III hitch to tow 500lbs. However the specification given is to tow whatever maximum amount the trailer is rated for.
However if you’re using a hitch cargo carrier, not a trailer, they’re talking about tongue weight. A class III hitch is the bare minimum for 500lbs of tongue weight.
Five thousand pounds is how much you can tow not your ball weight which is more relevant with a cargo carrier.
A class III hitch is built for maximum ball weight not to a budget although it’s possible a cheaper hitch might do the job.
I believe the requirement for such a heavy hitch is due to the torquing possibilities, should you decide to load a really heavy item on just one side of the cargo platform. Think about the amount of stress as that item exerts force thru a (relatively) large moment-arm as the car bounces along. Then imagine those stresses applied repeatedly over many hours of driving.
I have added hitch receivers to (the rear of) two of my 5th-wheel campers for towing a boat. After consulting a mechanical engineer on the stresses and loading, I was surprised at just how much additional framing was necessary to make it safe. There is an amazing amount of force concentrated in different ways on that little square tube. The one thing most installations don’t plan for is a large amount of torque, since the trailer rotates about the ball.
Disclaimer: IANA Mechanical Engineer. I’m merely passing on what I remember from talking to one during my hitch platform “design”.
You might want to consider a fold up carrier for those times when you’re not actually carrying something but those require class 3, 2" receivers. Fold ups are easier to drive around with, unloaded, and your less likely to damage something when backing up without a load to remind you that it’s there.
Better Built Bumper Buddy Cargo Carrier
Aluminum, 42lbs, 22.5"W x 49.5"L x 4.5"H, folds up when not in use, requires 2" hitch (class 3).
Others have schooled you on tongue weight but I would also point out that a class II hitch has a smaller diameter receiver than Class III. (You may have gleaned this from doorhinge’s post.) The cargo hauler you want requires Class III both so you can put more on it and simply because that’s the size fitting it’s designed to work with. You might be able to find an adapter to work with Class II, but since it’s a heftier carrier you’re going to have more of your weight capacity go to the carrier itself.
Thanks to all the great people who’ve helped with this answer! The thing is that it has to have a larger width than 20". That’s why I was looking at the UC500XL heavy-duty carrier (with the 33" width.) But that having been said, the tongue weight would still be under 300 lbs. considering what I usually carry in it. Here are the specs for that carrier:
Weight Capacity: 500 lbs
Usable Dimensions: 60" long x 33" wide
Ramp Dimensions: 60" long x 32.5" wide
Hitch Rack Weight: 164 lbs
Maximum Equipment Width: 32"
Hitch Class: III or IV How Can I Tell?
Center of Pin Hole to Carrier Length (unfolded): 17"
Center of Pin Hole to Carrier Length (folded): 5.75"
Carrier Warranty: 1 year
Max Hitch Height: 11" - 18"
More dumb questions— does the “hitch rack weight” mean that that’s how much the carrier itself weighs (164 lbs)? Even if so, the total tongue weight would be around 250 lbs. with what I would normally carry in it. It does say that this one folds up. Thanks AGAIN for everyone’s great advice!
Something I’ve been considering lately is to weld a pair of square steel tubes, say 1 3/4" to the outside edges of the hitch frame assembly, then attach a pair of 1 1/2" square steel tubes to a hitch carrier that would insert into those:
o O o
o O o
o O o
l L l
l L l
l L l
-----------------------------------------
l L l
l L l
l hitch carrier l
l l
----------------------------------------
Sort of like the above, where the small o’s are the 1 3/4" “receivers” and the large Os are the hitch, if that makes sense.
So I was going to post this as a separate question, but as long as we have a conversation going…
My neighbor (retired, owned a body shop for 30 years) has offered to put the hitch on my van for free. He just won’t take anything in exchange for it… he says he doesn’t have much to do these days! Anyway, what EXACTLY would I need to get in order to be sure I have everything? Thanks, all!
Some hitches need to be welded to the frame of the vehicle and other can just be bolted on using existing holes in the frame. The hitch I bought for my vehicle bolted right up and it only took me 30 minutes to install it myself. All I needed was the hitch, the hardware that came with it, and a ratchet. My CUV has enough ground clearance that I can fit under it and I used a jack stand to hold up one end of the hitch while I attached the other end. A number of places that sell hitches will let you put in your vehicle info and spit out a list of the models that work and they should say if they bolt on or weld on. Try Curt Manufacturing, Draw Tite, and UHaul for starters.
Start with an idea of what you actually need (ie 33" width) plus whatever length and load capacity you need. See if there is something already available and then purchase a 1-1/4" or 2" receiver hitch that matches it.
If nothing is available or if you don’t like what is available, find a welder that will make you one. Most welders are capabile of working with different grades of steel but finding someone who can successfully weld aluminum is more difficult. There’s a very small heat range where aluminum tubing can be melted together instead of becoming a puddle.
Ramps of all lengths and widths are available. Do you want to load the carrier from either side or from the rear of the vehicle? Would you prefer a specific connection or a universal fit? How much room do you have to store the ramp during travel?
You can also buy 1/4->3/8 adapters for your1/4" ratchet, but why stop there, add in a 3/8-> 1/2 and a 1/2->3/4 adapter then you 1/4" rachet can handle working on the head bolts of locomotive.
What does this have to do with anything? The OP has stated that the stuff he/she wants to haul won’t exceed the tongue weight including the weight of the carrier. Of course buying the Class III would be better than using the adapter, but if the OP already has a Class II this is a workable solution.
In a related question, I recently added a 500 lb. aluminum cargo carrier, with a class
III hitch to my 2003 Isuzu Rodeo. I have an additional 1,000 pounds of gear
inside the truck. I put roughly 100 lbs or less in the carrier and need to drive the whole
deal 20 minutes to an hour, unload, use the gear, load up and drive back home.
My question is, which is less stressful, and less damaging to the Rodeo, what I’m doing or putting all of the gear in a covered trailer? I’ve noticed the engine makes a ticking sound while transporting the gear, and for a 1/2 day or so after I need to haul the gear.
The thing is that it has to have a larger width than 20". That’s why I was looking at the UC500XL heavy-duty carrier (with the 33" width.) But that having been said, the tongue weight would still be under 300 lbs. considering what I usually carry in it. Here are the specs for that carrier: