I don’t know what you include under “basic hand tools” but I’d list a good hammer, set of screwdrivers, pliers including needlenose, couple of chisels and several files and a rasp. Also a handsaw - an inexpensive pullsaw (you can get a really nice japanese one or an inexpensive one at the local hardware store) is great for general fine work, it’s also flexible so you can cut dowels flush. I use my $15 one all the time.
Measuring tools - a good 25’ tape measure, combo square and (dangit I can’t remember the name - plumber’s square? carpenter’s square) a 16"x24" L-shaped ruler. I have a drywall tool which is handy as well for working with full sheets of plywood (it’s a T-shaped ruler with the long arm measuring over 48 inches).
I assume that your safety gear includes proper eye and ear protection, a good dust mask (if you are doing sanding or working with power tools, they fling crap all over the place), leather work gloves.
A decent tool belt is handy.
Some anti-fatigue floor mats - put them in front of your work surface. Also nice in case you accidentally drop a tool, it may go thump instead of crack.
Drill bits - spend a little on a decent set of brad-point bits, they produce much cleaner cuts than the split-point bits you find at the big box stores. Forstner bits are also very nice for bigger holes (3/4" and above).
For power tools - a good cordless drill/driver is nice (you mention that you have a drill, dunno what type it is), the additional low gear for driving screws is a real life saver. Get extra phillips and square-drive bits (square-drive/robertson screws are very nice, the bit will not cam out, you don’t have to hold the screw in place while starting it and they will handle a tremendous amount of torque. McFeely’s has plenty of stuff mailorder). When my old trusty Porter-Cable cordless drill died I replaced it with a new Makita 18v drill/driver & impact wrench combo set, that thing is fantastic. The lithium-ion batteries are very light and it’s got a ton of power. The impact wrench is as big a jump in sinking screws over the regular driver as the regular driver is compared to doing them by hand. If you don’t want to shell out the money on these right now, order a Yankee screwdriver that will accept regular 1/4" shank hex bits.
Circular saw can be handy for breaking down sheet goods (in conjunction with a good straightedge tool guide), a miter saw is nice for chopping long stock to length. I have and use both.
About the only power tool I’ve got that I cheaped out on is my jigsaw - I got a $35 black & decker but honestly it works very well.
For stuff like a router and a tablesaw I’d recommend getting the best you can afford - a good tool will last forever and you want something that will handle just about anything you can throw at it, it would suck to spend the money and then realize a year later that it’s lacking some capability you really want. There are a number of good routers out there, I’ve got both a big Porter-Cable 3.25 HP plunge router (it’s a monster) and a Milwaukee 3.25 HP fixed-base router in my router table. Both of those are pretty hefty though, for starting look at one of the general purpose 2HP models, for example the Porter-Cable 890. There are several good brands out there and you can get them as combination kits that include both fixed and plunge bases (very handy), built-in dust collection (wish I’d had that when I started!), etc.
For dust collection start with a good shop-vac, that will connect to most hand-held power tools (router, circular saw, sander) and it’s also great for the general messes you’ll be dealing with. They come with cartridge filters now, or invest in one of the Gore “cleanstream” filters. Fine dust is a real hazard, especially when sanding.
For a table saw the best place to start is probably a good contractor’s saw - they’re in the $600 range and will do just about anything a cabinet saw will do. There was an IMHO thread on this recently. I liked the JET 10" saw, a lot of other people liked the similar Delta models. The next step up is a full cabinet saw which can run you anywhere from $1000 (for something like the Grizzly 1023) to $3000 (for a fully tricked-out Sawstop cabinet saw). If you’ve got the space and the money, and 220v power, and you want to get the very best, that’s something that you can will to your grandkids. Whatever you buy, put a good combination blade on it, many of them ship with disposable steel blades that are pooptastic.
You can get (or build) a router table that replaces one of the wings on a table saw, that saves you floor space. If you get an extra fixed base for your router, leave that base mounted in the router table and you can slap the router motor in there when it’s time to work. A router table is very useful.
A thickness planer will eventually come in handy - the 12-13 inch “portable” (luggable) models are good, I like my Delta. Those are in the $300-400 range.
If you get any floor-standing tools (contractor or tablesaw, planer, jointer, etc) you should definitely invest in a dust collector. Before buying one I’d recommend Googling “Bill Peltz” to see what he has to say about that, reading his work was rather eye-opening for me. Having said that the DC that I own is an old 1.5HP JET with 1 micron filter bags and a cyclone garbage-can lid separator.
Big box of bandaids. A pair of “Uncle Bill’s Tweezers” - they have a ground-flat surface with a needle-point, perfect for getting out splinters and slivers (regular tweezers aren’t worth diddle). A fire extinguisher and a smoke detector.
I miss it terribly. Butwe are getting back into the market and may purchase something of comparable size again.
