Yosemite First-Timer with kids

In My Humble Opinion
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Yosemite First-Timer

As part of my summer road trip vacation, I’ll be spending three days at Yosemite National Park. We got a cabin on Groveland, about 90 minutes from the valley. We plan on the staying the first two days in the valley, parking once and exploring using the shuttle busses and our legs. The last, we’re driving on Tioga Road past Tuolomne Meadows.

A few caveats, as I’m traveling with small children (10 year old Anya and 6 year old Grant). I imagine I’ll want to come back when they’re older, but now’s not the time for “only three days, are you crazy?” or “don’t go where the tourists go, there’s this 8-mile hike with stunning views away from the main roads.” With that in mind:

No scaling Half-Dome*
No overnight hikes
Using Yosemite Valley as a base for any trails
We know there will be crowds

So, we park at the Yosemite Valley, pick up a map and junior ranger books, and… what do you recommend? What would be a good 2-day itinerary in the valley?

With that in mind, I’d like to work in the following:

A trail to a waterfall. I’m told the waterfalls all but dry up in the late summer. Would July 8-11 be considered late summer for dry waterfalls?

Driving up to Glacier Point. I’m told afternoon is the best time.

If I want a little bit of solitude, is Sentinel Dome that hard to get from the Glacier Point parking?

Is it possible to walk up to the base of El Capitan? Like: there’s trees, then bam: rock wall. Or will it be gradually up dodging around scree?

Fun place for the kids to swim? Sentinel Beach or Swinging bridge?

Anywhere yummy to eat? I’m fine with getting something at a deli and eating outdoors. Doesn’t have to be the Ahwahnee dining room.

We have a Junior Ranger hike planned from Happy Isles. Is it that rigorous to continue to the stairway by the Vernal Falls?

*I’ll probably fit in a free solo climb up El Capitan. If Captain Kirk could do it…

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Most years, that’s past peak, but still reasonable. This year, Yosemite Falls and Bridalveil Falls will be trickles at best, if not already dry. Don’t worry, it’s still a great place. Vernal Falls is going to be your best bet. Yes, it’s kind of rigorous, but just take it easy, gazillions of people do it. About 3/4 mile up the trail is a bridge with a view of the falls, the trail that far is steep, but not a lot of stairs. The 500 stairs are between the bridge and the top of the fall, which is another 1/2 mile. Worth the trip to the top, but at least you have to make it to the view at the bridge.

Be aware that it’s a full hour drive each way. Stunning view, totally worth the drive, but if you’re short of time, you may want to save it for next visit.

Sentinel Dome is a tough hike from Glacier Point. Much better is the Sentinel Dome parking area just before the road heads downhill to Glacier. Easy walk, great spot; won’t be solitude, but a lot less crowded. There’s an easy trail to the base of the dome, then a chance to scramble up the granite dome itself. Doable for a kid; bring water.

Not sure about El Cap specifically, but there are plenty of places around the valley where both conditions exist. You’ll find trees-bam-wall without needing specific directions.

My personal favorite swimming hole is just downstream from the second bridge as you head up the bike trail between the Ahwahnee and North Pines Campground.

The Ahwahnee dining room is required. It’s just an amazing space to sit in and eat. Breakfast is quite reasonable, as long as it’s not Sunday Brunch. Grab a snack in Groveland to ward off morning starvation, and go to the Ahwahnee. Otherwise, Degnan’s deli makes pretty good sandwiches.

Have fun!!!

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Re: waterfalls-- I was in the valley in late May. Bridalveil and Yosemite falls were pretty “wispy”–not much flow at all. You might try Rainbow Pool Falls right off of 120 east of Buck Meadows or maybe Carlon Falls off of Evergreen Road just outside the park – both are popular swimming spots in the summer.

Sentinel Dome is a very cool spot and has it’s own trailhead on Glacier Point Road --but I doubt you’ll get much solitude unless you get there early in the morning. You can catch the trail to the fissures at Taft Point from the same parking lot–there might be fewer people there.

Since you’re planning on driving Tioga road, Tenaya Lake is a great place for kids to go swimming/wading. There are several nice beach areas with shallow and (maybe) fairly warm water.

There’s a picnic area pretty much at the base of El Cap–you can check out the base from there. You might need to scramble around some boulders, but I’m pretty sure you can get to and touch the base itself.

Definitely check out the Ahwahnee even if you don’t eat there. It’s expensive, but a meal there is worth it for the ambiance. The Sunday Brunch used to be excellent, but I haven’t been for many years.

If you’re a beer drinker and like IPAs, look for IPA 395 from Mammoth Brewery. You should be able to find it the mini-marts or liquor stores in the area–I know they carry it at the Crane Flat Gas Station store.

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Greeting Twoflower, you were a great help in planning my Yellowstone trip. We’re doing 4 parks on this trip, also Sequoia and Death Valley. Looking forward to picking some brains.

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Happy to help! Someday I’ll hit you up for tourist ideas in Hawaii.

Death Valley will be HOT. Stop at Badwater, because, why else are you in Death Valley? I’m a big fan of the pupfish in Salt Creek; check out the Stovepipe Wells sand dunes and hike up Mosaic Canyon.

I was almost going to suggest skipping Sequoia for extra time in Yosemite, but the Mariposa Grove is closed for rehab this summer. So if you want to see really big trees, Sequoia’s the place. There are a couple of other groves in Yosemite, but they’re less impressive.

And I agree with blondebear that Tenaya Lake is a really nice swim/picnic spot.

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Envy envy! Yosemite is a wonderful place, and I hanker to return some day.

Bicycling in the valley was jolly fun. You get a pretty good view of most of the key landmarks.

Happy Isles is one of the most peaceful places I’ve ever been.

Sequoia and King’s Canyon are good, but not great. Still, if you’re a cave fan, Crystal Cave is worth a side trip.

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As you are headed to Tioga pass on your last day, Lembert dome is really easy to get to with a nice hike up the backside. Something not to taxing on young kids, but they can get up on the rock. Dog lake isn’t much farther down the trail. Beyond that, Mono lake of course and also Devils Postpile behind Mammoth is worth a stop on your way to Death Valley.

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We were planning on Crystal, but are wary of the hike from the parking lot to the cave. Online reviewers say it’s a good hour-long uphill hike, but I wonder if they are exaggerating because they expecting to go right from the parking lot to the cave?

Moro Rock may have to wait until next time, it sounds like we’ll be spending a lot of time going back and forth to Crystal Cave (drive and hike). Or is it that long?

Other than the caves, I plan on mostly spending time around the Sherman and Grant groves. I’ll probably want to take in a view of Kings Canyon at either Panorama Point or Junction Point. But not linger too long… we have the GRAND Canyon coming up later in our road trip.

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Beautiful place. Warn your kids about the deer; they injure more people every year than anything else in the park. They appear tame, but are just habituated.

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I was thinking of Pothole Dome, right by the meadows. I’ll look into Lembert.

After Tuolomne Meadows, we plan on seeing Bodie’s ghost town and Mono Lake. Our overnight will be in Lone Pine. Then getting up at 5am to get the Death Valley sights in before noon.

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Lembert Dome will take you a couple of hours round trip. Great spot, but Pothole will work well for a quicker visit. The Mono Lake visitor center in Lee Vining is worth a stop, as well as the lake itself. Given your schedule, consider the County Park just north of Lee Vining as an easy-access place to visit the shoreline. Bodie is totally fascinating, an example of what incredibly inhospitable places people will go to if they think there’s money to be made.

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If you’re looking for something to eat in Lee Vining I highly recommend the Whoa Nellie Deli at the gas station at the junction of CA120 and US 395. The county park north of town is nice, but I think the South Tufa area is worth the slightly longer drive–it’s an other-worldly experience hiking around those exposed tufa towers.

If you have time in Lone Pine, the Film History Museum is well worth a stop.

The trail to Crystal Cave is down hill all the way from the parking lot and sort of steep, so it’s a bit of a slog back to the car after you’ve finished your tour. The cave itself is pretty neat and the giant wrought iron spiderweb gate at the entrance is really cool.

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Agreed. Just sounds like a really full day already; the County Park is the place to stop to visit the water if time is short.

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See, that’s the problem with vacations…there is just never enough time to see everything! :smiley:

It’s gonna be hot…but you know that already. You know what they say about it being a dry heat. :cool: The pools at Stovepipe and Furnace Creek might offer day use passes but you should probably call and check. Besides those pools, the only other cool place would probably be Darwin Falls.

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True, but I’m using the same logic as my Yellowstone trip, where I put attractions in Tiers. Romping through Tuolomne and Bodie are the Tier A. We’ll see what time it is in Bodie before deciding on Mono Lake. Always wanted to float in heavy salt water like the Great Salt Lake. And the tufa will be irresistible for my camera. I do know the drive to Lone Pine hotel from Bodie is about 3.5 hours.

I want to hit all the Tier A, and play the Tier B by ear. I do kind of over-plan my trips, but as I live in Hawaii, they’re never “hop in the car and see” excursions. I should add that by “a whole day”, I’m talking sun-up to sunset; the respective National Park is the only plan that day.

Yosemite Valley (where I’ve devoted two whole days to/from Groveland) We’re starting off with a 10-noon Yosemite Valley floor tram tour, so I’ll get a good idea of what to revisit.
Tier A: Happy Isles Junior Ranger hike, Glacier Point, swimming in the river.
Tier B: continuing on Happy Isles to Vernal Falls, hike to Yosemite/Bridal Veil falls (knowing they may be dry)
Tier C: Free solo climb up El Capitan
Sequoia/Kings Canyon (one whole day to/from Fresno)
Tier A: Crystal Cave, Grant Grove, and Kings Canyon Panorama Point.
Tier B: Sherman Grove, Moro Rock, Kings Canyon Junction Point. I don’t plan on going along the whole Byway this time.
I’ve moved General Sherman to Tier B as I’m not sure on the Crystal Cave time (reservations are first come/first serve; plus the drive/hike). My son’s name is Grant, so I’ll pick that giant tree grove if I have to choose one :smiley:
Death Valley (one whole day from Lone Pine, but before it gets too hot)
Tier A: Mesquite Sand Dunes, Golden (aka Jawa) Canyon, Badwater
Tier B: whatever’s left before heading to the A/C visitors center :wink: I see that Zabriskie Point is on the way to Vegas.
Grand Canyon (two half days: driving from/to Vegas, overnight in Maswick Lodge)
Tier A: Hermit Trail (Jr Ranger-led hike), Hike Mather to Yavapai
Tier B: Desert View Watchtower
I’d imagine we’ll hop off the busses for points like Abyss, Hopi, and Yaki. We’ll be up for sunrise.
Thoughts? I’ve already carefully Google-Mapped the times and distances involved.

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Well, it looks like you have quite a trip ahead of you. There are some pretty fantastic things to see along your route. I hope you like mountain and desert driving! Have a blast!

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You may want to consider a hike to North Dome starting near Porcupine Flat. The trail is reasonably flat - though probably too long for a 6yo

Brian

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The Nose of El Cap is the part that comes closest to the valley floor (IOW, has the least scree at its base). It’s a moderately easy 15-minute hike from El Cap Meadow to the most accessible place where you can actually touch the rock wall, roughly 300’ above the elevation of the valley.

I recommend this, as it will show you the great beauty of the rock and the impressive size of this most famous wall in a way that more distant views - stunning as they are - can’t.

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How are you getting from Fresno to Groveland? If you’re coming through the park on Hwy 41, it would make more sense to include the side trip to Glacier Point on your way in, rather than double back to return there later.

Visiting the bases of Bridalveil and Lower Yosemite Falls are easy access from the road. It makes sense to rank them as Tier B stops, but I’d include them unless time was really tight.

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We are heading up 41 from Fresno for our first Yosemite day. We decided to start with a 10:00 Tram tour of the Valley to start off. I’m fine with doubling back to Glacier Point in the afternoon, when the sun is behind me in the west. Then to our Groveland cabin.

While one focus is ensuring the kids have a good time, I’m also going as a photographer (my side job). Bringing the big guns, which is another reason I’d like to avoid lugging up too many hilly hikes, ha ha!

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[li]Nikon D3s[/li][li]24-70mm 2.8 lens[/li][li]70-200mm 2.8 lens[/li][/ul]