Yosemite's El Capitan - the first free climb of Dawn Wall

[aceplace57]

I’m surprised there hasn’t been more media coverage. No climbers have ever made it up Dawn Wall. These two men have been climbing for 2 weeks. They are expected to reach the summit in a couple days.

Quite an accomplishment. Jorgeson especially has shown unbelievable determination after multiple falls. The photos are spectacular.

Its not over yet. But the two men seem quite confidant they’ll reach the summit.

El Capitan climbers reunite after one fell far behind

One of two climbers attempting a grueling ascent up a half-mile of sheer granite in California’s Yosemite National Park caught up with his partner Monday night.

Kevin Jorgeson, 30, of Santa Rosa, California, had been behind Tommy Caldwell, 36, of Colorado, for about a week as they try to scale El Capitan’s Dawn Wall without climbing aids other than safety ropes.

Jorgeson caught up with Caldwell at a rare ledge after his third attempt, Patagonia spokeswoman Jess Clayton said.

From there, it will be a push to the 3,000-foot summit, possibly by midweek.

On Friday, Jorgeson got past one of the most difficult stretches after days of failed attempts and waiting. He fell 11 times in a seven-day battle with the tough section, which required him to grab onto razor-blade-thin holds that tore up his fingers.

Jorgeson took to Facebook on Sunday to publicly celebrate his victory.

‘Momentum is a powerful force. When it’s on your side, everything feels a bit easier. When it’s not on your side, it feels like wading through mud,’ he wrote of his week-long attempt to get past the particularly difficult section. ‘It took everything in my power to stay positive and resolved that I would succeed. Now that momentum has returned to my side, I’m staying just as focused and resolved because a lot of hard climbing remains.’

[aceplace57]

National Geographic

National Geo has more information. They climb at night to avoid slippery hands from sweating.

[Baron_Greenback]

There’s a really really good NYT interactive graphic about this climb

The Dawn Wall: El Capitan’s Most Unwelcoming Route (Published 2015)

[aceplace57]

Thanks for the link Baron Greenback. I’ll take a look.

[LouLou7]

I"ve been following this, and something hasn’t been mentioned…

…how do they, um, do a doody up there? I’m guessing Nature still calls, even when they are climbing a mountain.
:o

[Baron_Greenback]

@LouLou7

I"ve been following this, and something hasn’t been mentioned…

…how do they, um, do a doody up there? I’m guessing Nature still calls, even when they are climbing a mountain.
:o

It’s all bagged and carried. They do have a support team, and a base camp they return to.

[snowthx]

I also heard they are climbing this time of year for the cool temps - less sweat and the rubber on their climbing shoes works better.

I don’t know much about this type of climing. Can someone explain what is ground-breaking here?

Says they are free-climbing, but have ropes for safety. What is free-climbing? What is roped climbing?

The section they are doing that has that never been done before - how much of their route HAS been done already?

Not taking anything away from them - it’s incredible, but not seeing yet how record-setting this is.

Ignorance-fighting opportunity ahead.

[TreacherousCretin]

I’m guessing that they’re climbing without devices/tools, using hands and feet only, but are attached to safety lines so that slips and falls aren’t automatically fatal.
Am I close?

[DingoelGringo]

But why???

[Musicat]

@LouLou7

…how do they, um, do a doody up there? I’m guessing Nature still calls, even when they are climbing a mountain.
:o

Look out below!!

[Baron_Greenback]

@TreacherousCretin

I’m guessing that they’re climbing without devices/tools, using hands and feet only, but are attached to safety lines so that slips and falls aren’t automatically fatal.
Am I close?

Once they get to a new place on the climb - using hands and feet only- they establish a new safety base-line with ropes so they can’t fall to their death on the next leg. I think.

[aceplace57]

@snowthx

I also heard they are climbing this time of year for the cool temps - less sweat and the rubber on their climbing shoes works better.

I don’t know much about this type of climing. Can someone explain what is ground-breaking here?

Says they are free-climbing, but have ropes for safety. What is free-climbing? What is roped climbing?

The section they are doing that has that never been done before - how much of their route HAS been done already?

Not taking anything away from them - it’s incredible, but not seeing yet how record-setting this is.

Ignorance-fighting opportunity ahead.

The National Geo article briefly explains climbing techniques. Free Solo is climbing without ropes. Free Climbing is with safety ropes.

They mention no major route on El Capitan has been done Free Solo. Too dangerous. Falls are too common. Jorgeson fell 11 times on just on tough section.

They are using a support team. They shine flood lights at night. Provide supplies. I guess that’s required on a tough climb like this.

[Baron_Greenback]

@aceplace57

They mention no major route on El Capitan has been done Free Solo.

Physically impossible I’d have thought

[Telemark]

@TreacherousCretin

I’m guessing that they’re climbing without devices/tools, using hands and feet only, but are attached to safety lines so that slips and falls aren’t automatically fatal.
Am I close?

Yup, dead on.

[Hilarity_N.Suze]

There has been more media coverage of this than any rock climb I ever remember hearing about in my life.

[Lucas_Jackson]

@snowthx

I also heard they are climbing this time of year for the cool temps - less sweat and the rubber on their climbing shoes works better.

I don’t know much about this type of climing. Can someone explain what is ground-breaking here?

Says they are free-climbing, but have ropes for safety. What is free-climbing? What is roped climbing?

The section they are doing that has that never been done before - how much of their route HAS been done already?

Not taking anything away from them - it’s incredible, but not seeing yet how record-setting this is.

Ignorance-fighting opportunity ahead.

The ropes are for safety only and do not aid in the ascent. Free in this sense means they are not driving pitons into the rock to aid in the climb, hands and feet only.

[Eonwe]

Meh. El Capitan Kirk did it first.

[kayT]

@Hilarity_N.Suze

There has been more media coverage of this than any rock climb I ever remember hearing about in my life.

Really? Where? This is the first I’ve heard of it.

[Telemark]

@kayT

Really? Where? This is the first I’ve heard of it.

I’ve seen a few articles - but rock climbing barely gets mention in the press unless there’s a particularly bad accident. The NYT article is pretty mainstream.

[aceplace57]

NY Times article. I wonder how the climbing community feels about this? I’m not a climber. I just assumed they climbed a certain distance, attached their tent to the mountain, and kept going the next day. Just like mountain climbers take their gear with them day by day. until they’re ready for the final days ascent.

Is it standard procedure to return by ropes to a base camp every night? Then get hauled back up the next morning?

The base camp for Caldwell and Jorgeson is suspended 1,200 feet above the valley floor. After completing sections by free-climbing, the climbers use ropes to make their way back to camp, where they eat and sleep. When it is time to attempt to free-climb the next sections, they use ropes to take them to where they left off.