Slight threadjack, but I have a full-size truck with that 4.7 engine and it sucks. It’s slowwwww and I’ve never gotten even remotely close to the rated fuel mileage. It was meant to be a replacement for the venerable old AMC 4.0L straight six for the Jeep line, but I think they fell a little too close in terms of performance (or lack thereof) at a time when the brand was going upscale. I think the only reason they kept the engine for as long as they did was to punish people for not springing for the Hemi.
In the immortal words of Jeremy Clarkson:
“Powaahhhh!!!”
Another vote for backup camera. Or Bluetooth in the stereo system.
Stereo controls on the steering wheel. My old car had them and years later I still miss them.
Or maybe caltrop deployers In the rear. The rear part is important, never let the guy install them in the front of the car.
I just traded my 2008 falling apart BMW, for a VW CC. I love my new car, but I really miss the memorized seat/mirror button I used to have. I hate it now when my husband borrows my car, it is such a pain to get everything back to where I like it.
Death ray.
Heated mirrors. Mine ice up like crazy if it’s slushy out.
I’d like a rattle-free front end.
Since most people seem to be listing upgrades, I’d like a door lock/unlock button at the back end (Subaru Legacy Outback wagon). My Ford Econoline had one of these and it was amazingly handy… get out, go to the back, open it up and take out your stuff, then hit the door lock button and you’re good. Since that’s kind of minor, I’ll add cruise control buttons on the steering wheel. Guess what the Ford also had…
Backup camera. Second choice would be the jukebox feature from my previous car. You could upload and store playlists from your iPod.
I’ll take a remote starter, please. I’ve wanted one for years, but it borders so close on ridiculously conspicuous consumption that I haven’t pulled the trigger on it.
If I can be greedy and take two items, I’ll also take one of those stereos that links directly to the iCloud.
Here you go…
A very basic one for me would be that the check engine light would not disable the cruse control.
I want to remove the factory roof rails from my Mazda CX-5.
Before I got the car I checked the Yakima fit guide–and bought the parts (“rail grabbers”) needed to mount the Yakima crossbars and bike holder that I already had. Unfortunately the Yakima rail grabbers do not mount properly to the factory rails. Now I have to either remove the factory rails or change over to a Thule system that would cost me $500. (and no, using a hitch-mounted bike carrier is not an option)
Headlight mounted machine guns, hardened and reinforced front rear bumpers, and a rear oil ejector, and occasionally a smoke screen…
Can I just change out my momvan for a brand new Ford Kuga, manual diesel, for sake of argument top of the line so it has everything [so I don’t forget to add something]? The one we rented a couple years ago when we were in Germany and Holland was very comfortable. I really don’t care what color either.
Change one thing? Add a built in inverter instead of multiple lighter outlets.
Larger cab in the pickup; higher grade interior in the Explorer (seat’s getting a little old).
Since my vehicle is a 2014 model, I already have most of the things everyone in this thread wants (dual climate control, seat heaters, ipod connection, bluetooth, etc). What I don’t have and want is a back door that opens and closes automatically by pushing a button on the key fob and I want to get rid of the inaccurate and useless tire pressure indicator.
Get rid of the power steering in exchange for manual. I drive an Abarth 500. It doesn’t need power steering. I miss steering feel.
I’m also not a fan of power windows. Fortunately my car doesn’t have them. OTOH, Mrs. FtG’s car does.
I can understand you don’t want the switches live when you get out of the car because of little kids and such. (But leaving kids in cars unattended is already the problem.) But I never remember to crack/close the windows before I take the key out.
Maybe a compromise: The window switches will work for 20 seconds after the key is out (or the switch is last used), then go dead until the key is back in.