A camera discussion

I have not shot film in well over ten years and those tended to be fixed lens. When I got the 10D, I never gave a second thought to shooting in anything but digital. So here I was today looking around used pawn shops at some of the various film cams that they had and noticed this rebel.

Or rather I noticed the lens that the Johnny reb had, which was really no big deal being a 28-80 EF, but it seemed like a nice cheap way to pick up another EF lens that would mount on the 10D. For sixty bucks , I got the body, that lens, and a nice camera strap that now has a new home on the 10D, nice foamy and comfie on the neck and a looker with christmasy red and white colors.

Being a pawn shop , I had no idea if the thing actually worked, but the lens mounted up no problem, and I like what I see. But the body, it uses two batteries that are weird looking, and i have to find a recharger for them.

The controls are pretty much identical to the modern DSLRS, but I need info on film. Is it ASA still, or has it switched over to ISO. The most amount of frames that I have seen on a roll was 36, while I have also seen lower amounts of frames, is 36 the max that is sold?

On my 10D, 50 mm on the lens equates to 35 mm or so people have said. But on the Reb, is it 35mm on the lens that equates to 35mm?

Last question, I dont expect to actually invest in dark room and related gear, but what options do labs have now a days, can they develop the film and then email it to me as a scanned images ?


  1. ASA became ISO years ago.
  2. There used to be an Ilford B&W film that came in 72 exposure rolls, but these days 36 is the most you are likely to find (an the last time I looked - years ago - 24 was all I could find).
  3. The Rebel is a full-frame camera, so 35mm = 35mm (no crop factor).
  4. Develop and scan used to be an option, I’m sure it’s still available (but I haven’t checked).

Run of the mill photo developers (Walgreens, CVS etc) always have an option to buy a photo CD of anything they develop for you, whether it’s film or digital. I would assume this is the case with higher end hand-developers also.

I haven’t seen anything but 36 exposure film since I started taking pictures about 15 years ago; I don’t usually buy it when I’m shooting film (vs digital) b/c it has a slight tendency to get “stuck” towards the end of the roll, which leads to lost pics and/or images over-running each other. (I always shoot film with a “classic” SLR that’s completely manual; I don’t know if this problem affects newer SLR’s.) It’s only happened to me about 6 times, in thousands of rolls, but if those last handful of pictures were remotely important, it can be horribly annoying.

#3 is incorrect.

The Rebel has a crop factor of 1.6. The image you get from a 50mm lens on your camera is about the same as an 80mm lens used on a 35mm film camera. (80mm = 1.6 x 50mm). A 30mm wide angle on a 35mm film camera would be a 48mm equivalent on your Rebel, making it a normal lens.

You’re thinking Digital.
This is a film camera - it uses the full 35mm frame.
So, no crop factor.

You can find film at various places, including ebay.

Makes me wonder how the world worked prior to going digital with the cameras. Don’t get me wrong, I’m old enough to know better but the economics are a bit eye spinny. I only have a 2 gig card in the 10d, which gives me around 800 shots at large jpg, which gets uploads to the computer.

By contrast that’s between 24 to 36 or more rolls of film to develop. I have read a number of film shooters discussing various means of saving money by buying things in bulk, doing their own processing and so forth, but I can still see why a wedding would run multi thousand dollars.

How much on average would a professional shooter need to budget back then(pre 2k for argument sake)? The glass may figure, but I am more curious about film and post processing.


As beowulff mentioned, this particular camera is a 35 mm film rebel, rather than one of the digi rebs.


Sorry 'bout that; should have read more carefully.