I couldn’t agree more. We’ve got tons of restaurants here in Seattle; I heard once we’ve got more restaurants per capita than anywhere on the West Coast other than San Francisco. We’ve got everything from nice places like Cutter’s and Wild Ginger down to all the hole-in-the-wall teriyaki joints. (The influence of being a Pacific Rim city.)
In the last few years, as the city fathers have attempted to shore up their tax base to resist the fluctuations of Boeing and the up-and-down software market, they’ve been making it possible for lots of big chain restaurants to move in. We got a Planet Hollywood a few years ago, followed by a Hooters, and of course we’ve got Azteca and Tony Roma’s and TGIFridays and on and on and on. We’ve also got Red Robin, a west-of-the-Rockies chain, but they’re headquartered here in Seattle and tend to be better than the others.
At any rate, I couldn’t agree more that the service in these chains is, on average, far below the service you get in a place that stands alone (or has only a couple of locations). Our favorite restaurant in Seattle is Two Dagos from Texas. We’ve been going there for years. Over time, we’ve gotten to know the wait staff (and the owners), so some chit-chat is more than welcome, it’s encouraged. We’ve recently started going to Copper Sky up by Northgate, another standalone establishment, and have had very good experiences. It makes a huge difference when the person with ultimate decision authority for service standards is actually there in the restaurant and can see the immediate impact of their decisions and adjust appropriately, instead of having policies coming out of some remote headquarters where the suits walk in lock-step with a bunch of marketing yo-yos who don’t know what it’s really like to run a restaurant.
I definitely agree, though, that good service at the table is the responsibility of the waitperson, and that a good tip should result. I would also repeat my above caution that, especially at chains, the waitperson, being at the bottom of the totem pole, is often hamstrung by inane directives handed down from some ivory tower a thousand miles away. If my water glass is filled regularly, the waitperson is available but not obtrusive, and special requests (clean silverware, fresh napkin, etc.) are handled quickly and professionally, I’m basically a happy guy. I refuse to hold things against the waitperson that are out of their control: The Outback likes the server to sit with you or kneel by the table to be friendly and informal, TGIF encourages annoyingly chirpy cheerful speech, and so forth. Those don’t impact the tip. I let the server do their job within the constraints set out for them, and that’s it.
By the way, if you want a hilarious look at the decline of the service culture, read Connie Willis’s Bellwether. There’s an office assistant character who defines obstructive incompetence, and I promise you’ll recognize her or her kind.