It looks like I will be going to Anchorage week after next, and I will probably have a full day to do my own thing.
Any recommendations on things I must do? I know very little about Alaska or Anchorage, except a generic sense that Alaska is very beautiful. Should I spend my day in Anchorage? Should I try get out of the city for the day? I’m all for touristy things but Anchorage doesn’t strike me as exciting in a San Francisco or New York sort of way, so I was thinking of taking in some natural beauty if it isn’t too far out of the city. Feel free to correct me if I am wrong about the city.
Things to do, places to see, places to eat … I’d appreciate any insight anyone has into visiting this city!
Are you more inclined to enjoy a hike in the low mountains around the city, a fishing or canoeing trip or a full day drive through some gorgeous country? How far a drive is too far?
A hike sounds like a great idea if it is in an interesting and unique landscape. I’m not into fishing and probably wouldn’t bother with setting up a canoeing trip. I’m just a guy traveling for business armed with an open day and a rental car!
I’d set an upper limit on driving time at two hours one way, although if the drive itself is the attraction I’m open to hearing about longer trips. I’d love it if there were any spectacular glaciers near town that would make a good day trip. Portage Glacier and the Begich, Boggs Visitor Center are mentioned in the Anchorage guide and look quite interesting.
It is pretty subjective I realize - I’m interested in seeing things unique to Anchorage / Alaska - things that will set this trip apart from any other that I’ve done. Basically I’m looking to the maximize the “woah, that is awesome!” factor within the confines of one day.
There’s a very convenient climb right on the outskirts of the city called Flattop, a favorite among local because of its proximity and relative ease. If memory serves, it takes around an hour or so to get up and then you’ve got a great view of the town, Cook Inlet, Turnagain Arm, etc.
If you drive south out of town around Turnagain Arm and start down the Kenai Peninsula you pass numerous quaint little towns, a glacier, see some beautiful mountains and lakes, etc. When you reach your halfway point, turn around and enjoy it all again from a new perspective.
ETA: Yep, silenus’ Portage, but when you’re through there keep going for as long as you have time for. Homer, one of the prettiest settings in all North America would be an ideal destination but that’s an awfully long haul for one day. A night there an next day’s return would be better.
So there seems to be some consensus on heading south from the city through Kenai Peninsula to Portage. I’ve decided to think about extending my trip so I have two days free, which opens Homer up if I want to go that far. Any advice based on this?
Also, is this the rainy season? Weather.com indicates it is raining for the next 10 days but also the month-to-month statistics don’t look too bad.
When I spent 2 days in the Anchorage area (10 years ago), I saw and did and enjoyed the following:
Alaska Museum (Anchorage)
Dog-sledding (we used a firm called Northern Lights Adventured, I think they were in Willow)
Big Game Alaska Wildlife Center (right near the aforementioned Portage Glacier - it was too foggy to see the glacier the day we were there, though)
Alaska Sea Life Center, Seward
July is probably the optimal month for weather, but June ain’t bad, either. A drive down to Portage Glacier is good for southbound. Northbound, either go to Matanuska Glacier or to Hatcher Pass or both. Hatcher is a bit over an hour away, has terrific views, a gold mine you can tour (Independence Mine), and a chalet that serves decent food. Lots of hiking trails and a beautiful little river (Little Susitna) that follows the road until you start to climb up the mountain. The glacier is another hour further, but hey: you get to walk on a glacier!
Downtown restaurants: for a decent burger and some beers, try Humpy’s on 6th Avenue. Usually crowded with young professionals and noisy. For better food and better beer (and quieter): Glacier Brewhouseon 5th Avenue (do yourself a favor and order the salmon). For an excellent burger or fried chicken, but no beer (good milkshakes and lots o’ fries): Lucky Wishbone on east 5th Avenue. For decent seafood (but not as good as Glacier): Simon & Seafort’s on ‘L’ Street at the north end of 5th Avenue (actually mid-block between either 4th and 5th or 5th and 6th), which looks out over Cook Inlet. For an excellent martini, try Bernie’s Bungalow on D Street between 6th and 7th.
Hey, that’s near Russia right? I have a friend there, if you tell him you’re friends with me he’ll be delighted to show you some sites. Russia’s a small place so you shouldn’t have any trouble finding him, just ask around for Ivan.
Brewery recommendations! Excellent, I’ll be sure to check those out.
I’ve decided to extend my trip such that I have two free days, but I probably won’t make it down to Homer. Perhaps I’ll do a day trip north and a day trip south. Man, there are not a lot of spare rental cars in Anchorage! Finally I have an unlimited mileage rental car that isn’t a minivan for my travels, but it was a fight. It seems everyone is in Anchorage this month.
Homer is a very long drive. You’ll get the sense of the drive by the time you get to Portage. Actually, you can’t even see Portage Glacier anymore from the visitor center; you have to take a boat. So you may want to stop at Girdwood instead (saving yourself about 12 miles) and visit Crow Creek Gold Mine and the Mt. Alyeska ski resort area. I used to hang out there when I was a kid and it was owned by my best friend’s grandfather. Tourism is a major industry in Alaska and rentals are scarce in the summer.
Is it worth it to take the boat? The Alyeska resort area looks like fun, I think I’ll try the aerial tram. Anything in Girdwood worth seeing?
As far as going north goes, Matanuska Glacier looks awesome. Is this something you can just visit at the last minute and enjoy, or should I book some sort of organized tour? This group - Mica Guides - seems to offer some interesting hikes, although they seem more geared towards two or more people.
Portage was cool way back in the 60s. I don’t even know what it looks like now that it’s receded so far, and feel that it’s a waste of money when you can go to Matanuska and get up close and personal with a glacier. There are several hanging glaciers along the Portage cutoff road which may be of interest. Girdwood is quaint and quirky. The tram is a winner, especially on a clear day, and Crow Creek is in the same area as the resort.
Last minute is perfectly fine. Matanuska Glacier is just spectacular. As you drive north, you pass through the town of Palmer (bypassing Wasilla - trust me, you don’t want to see it). Just past the top of the hill on the other side of Palmer, you pass the turnoff to Hatcher Pass. Right after that, there is a turnout on the right where you can get your first overview of the Matanuska River and valley. As you keep driving, you will start to see more and more of the river on your right as you follow the valley.
Then you start up into more mountainous territory and will pass Sheep Mountain Lodge on the left. This is prime blueberry picking country. Eventually, you will come to a maintained turnout on the right that offers a spectacular view of the glacier, terminus and valley. Has public toilets, also. You will also see some stellar scenery along this road, with some substantial down- and upgrades to transition.
Leave the turnout and continue on. You will pass Long Rifle Lodge, which has (or had) a decent restaurant and a million-dollar view of the glacier. If you plan to stop there for lunch, it comes up very abruptly on the right, so watch for it. Not far beyond Long Rifle, there will be a dirt road turnoff to the glacier. Take your time on this road, as it can be somewhat rough. At the bottom of the downgrade, you’ll cross the river, then come to a drop gate. Stop there and go inside the concession to pay for your entry.
Continue on the road and eventually you will wind your way to the glacier’s terminus parking lot. There is a path leading out to the glacier’s moraine. At that point you will see traffic cones placed in various locations on the moraine. This is the suggested best path for the day, which has been determined by people who know the area best. WEAR GOOD HIKING BOOTS. This is NOT a theme park, and you really don’t want to break any bones out there.
Once on the white part of the glacier, exercise common sense and due caution. People have died out there because they were stupid. Stay out of the streams and walk carefully, and you’ll be okay. I would suggest not losing sight of where you came from, as it’s easy to become disoriented out there. If rain is threatening, get off the glacier. I’ve been out there many, many times with both adults and children and never had a problem.
On the way back to Anchorage, take the Hatcher Pass cutoff mentioned above and take the sidetrip up to the mine. It’s completely worthwhile on a nice day.
Also: as you drive down the Seward Highway to Girdwood, make sure you stop at Beluga Point turnout. Quite often there are beluga whales out in Turnagain Arm and Dall sheep up on the mountainside. McHugh Creek is a nice area for mountain hiking, but be aware that there have been grizzly attacks on that trail. Bird Creek is an extremely popular salmon fishing spot, and there is a spacious parking area there now.
Thanks for the details, Chefguy, I really appreciate it. This is really useful stuff, and it sounds like I’m going to have a blast.
You mention rough roads - is a regular no four wheel drive mid-sized rental sufficient for the specific places you mentioned? I’m pretty comfortable with badly maintained gravel roads, having abused our Prius in the American River Valley, but am not prepared for a serious off road experience.
Last time I was on it, the road to the Mat glacier was ok for a basic rental car. I did it in a Ford LTD that had come up via the Alcan, and it handled it fine.
