A texas hold'em tournament with friends. Tell me how to win!

Actually, I don’t know of a single daily tournament in the casinos around here that does much better than 25/50, 2000 to start. We have a 25/25 5000 to start with 20 minute levels, but that’s $60.

And the sooner you figure this out, the better off you are. It’s one of the worst aspects of the game…You can make every decision, 100% correct 100% of the time…and still lose.

Mind if I pick your brain for a second here…

Why not play cheap pocket pairs for their set value? With calling stations his implied odds are huge. Not to mention that occasionally the flop WILL come unders to a hand like 88 or 99.

I should probably clarify. Kayebe has described both calling stations AND loose aggressive players at his table. I agree…a check-raise is the WORST move against a calling station as he likely won’t even bet and will see the card for free. However, I stand by my suggestion to use it to counter the aggressive players at his table.

I agree 100% with your approach to the calling stations; though IMHO, I would personally add the rest of the PP to the mix if you think you can get to the flop cheap.

@Kaybe: If nothing else, hopefully you can start to see why poker is such an incredible game from this thread. There are so many factors that go into making your decisions there’s NEVER a solid concrete answer.

IMHO, there’s a mix of good and bad advice in this thread, but the real problem is that it’s all too much for you to incorporate into your game at once anyway. Here’s a recipe that’s hopefully short enough to be useful. Note that this would all look very different if the blinds really did start at 25/50. I’m assuming they go: 5/10; 10/20; 25/50; 50/100; 100/200.

(1) Do not be afraid to lose. You will have to play hands for your whole chip stack more than once to win a tournament. But…

(2) You should not rarely have all your chips in the pot in the first few rounds of this tournament. The stacks are too deep relative to the blinds, so there’s no reason. With 2000 chips to start, you have 200 BBs at the beginning. Play tight, cautious, and aggressive until late in the 25/50 round. By only playing premium hands, you can’t get pushed around as easily. (How often do you see a flop with K8 only to fold to a bet or a raise when a king hits? The way to avoid losing chips like that: don’t play K8.) Hands selection should be limited to KQ+, suited connectors (), big pairs (QQ+) and smaller pairs looking for a set (). If you end up needing to fold on the flop or the turn when you miss and someone bets, be very happy! See (3) below for why.

() suited connectors - play these if its cheap. If you’re facing a raise, they still have value, but it will take some post-flop play to make them valuable, so you may want to leave them out in these situations.
(
) sets - watch for straights! Sets look nice, but there a good way to lose all your chips. Ideal is a board like 5JA when you have 55 – big aces might pay you off. Scary is 567. Who’s going to pay you off now? 66, 77, 89 all pay you off, but they all have you beat! Most other hands fold. Not a lot of value in a set in this spot!

(3) So it’s round 3 or so. You’ve been playing a tight game and folding occasionally after the flop to aggressive folks’ bets. Well, that’s all about to change! Three people have been knocked out already, so it’s a shorthanded game. You’ve only been raising preflop with big hands. Now, though, you’re raising (to 3x or 4x the BB) 30% of the time when you’re on the button. No, really! You get to decide which 30% by looking at your hand, but if no one has raised in front of you, just raise from the button (or one off the button)! Then, if no one bets the flop and it has anything in it that could have hit anything they think you could have, bet the flop! Thus, any flop containing a J, Q, K, or A you can bet and you will usually win. (If you bet at a flop like 478, they may not buy it, plus they may call just to see another card with their K9 or whatever.) If you feel heat, get away. If you feel heat but you have a good hand, excellent! (Note: when you don’t raise, is everyone seeing the flop for cheap (no raise anywhere)? If so, 30% should go up to maybe even 50% or so. But, remember to fold if you feel heat on the flop and you don’t have anything.)

(4) Once you get to 3 or 4 handed, you’ll have anywhere from 10 to 40 BBs. Play as in (3), but the closer you are to a 10BB stack, the more ridiculous your hands will be when you raise. You don’t have a choice below 15BB or so – you have to steal the blinds from the button or the cutoff (seat before the button). Do so with all you chips. The reason is two-fold: (1) Most people will fold most hands to a big all-in here. (Which is why you must do this before you get to 7BB, say. Calls are more automatic for your opponents if that’s all you’ve got.) (2) Even if you get called by AK, you are usually only a 2-to-1 underdog! (*)

(*) This is an important aspect of end-game tournament poker. If you go all-in for 15BB with only the blinds to beat/steal, they’ll usually fold. But even it they don’t, and you have garbage like Tc6h, you’ll still win ~30% of the time against the sorts of hands they’ll call you with. 30%! Both situations are good: (1) they fold ==> you build your stack a little. (2) They call ==> you double your stack! Now you’ve got 30BB in your stack, and you can play some actual poker for a few rounds, waiting for playable hands, letting the cycle repeat if luck runs against you and you get back to ~15BB again.
Once this thread dies away, do come back in a few weeks and let us know how the game has been going.

You make a good point, but a big part of pre-flop raising is isolation. It doesn’t look like this is easily attained in this game (and many of the places I play, thankfully not all).

[hijack, as I’m not in the bottom 40% of players]When I max out my bet and say “RAISE!”, I’m bluffing (unless it’s no limit hold em, and i dont do that in no-limit). But I’m trying to make you realize that I’m bluffing, so later when I have something, you’ll call me.

In quarter-ante poker, I average $20 or so against calling stations in a couple of hours. But that’s taking into account that I intentionally show “calling station” behavior myself so as not to make them not want to play with me anymore. Folding the 4-5 critical hands can make all the difference between +$20 and breakeven. I could do more but I don’t want them to be afraid of me![/hijack]

My first and only casual TNH tourney I placed third place in, after a good amateur and someone making a grind-bet living online (according to him.) The rest were pretty much calling stations.

But I differed from the strategy most people propose. I also called hands I should not have, but not for any social reason. I called them so that they would not realize that I was waiting for a good hand, and a couple of calls followed by a fold if you don’t get the flop (or immediately if there’s a big raise) can make people wonder sometimes when you DO have a good hand. This strategy wouldn’t work on people better able to perceive behavior. If you fold 80% or so of hands, people might figure out that you’re not a calling station. If your group were better, they’d assume you weren’t anyway.

There is some horrifyingly bad advice in here, but what you need to be able to do as a beginner is put the “table” on a playing style, and play the exact opposite. Being tight/aggressive is typically the best way for a beginner to play, until you learn some more elaborate moves and open up your game more, then you can play loose and aggressive. Under no circumstances can you ever be successful and be a tight/passive or a loose/passive player.

If you have a table full of calling stations, who won’t lay down anything preflop, then you also have a table full of donks who can’t lay down anything postflop either. You want to do 2 things

1)Play power hands against one or two of these idiots at the most for HUGE pots. The next time you play this tournament, find out what raise level it takes to thin a hand preflop. Typical preflop raises are 2-5x the BB, but if you aren’t forcing anyone out with that, then the next time you get AA or KK or QQ, go to 8-10X the BB. You will still get 1-2 callers playing 55 or A6 or K8. You want to be aggressively playing AA, KK, and AK here. JJ 1010 99 would be hands you would normally play aggressively, but with clowns who will call any preflop raise with any A or any K you are going to give yourself very hard decisions post flop by playing those medium pairs. The biggest thing for you is to make sure you don’t put yourself into as few difficult decisions as possible until you have more experience.

2)Play hands where you can draw to the nuts. If you can limp with suited connectors or a suited A preflop, do it. When you nail it, the idiots who can’t lay down the idiot end of a straight or middle pair will go broke and you will get all their chips. If you dont flop the hand or the draw you are looking for, you need to be very careful. Holding A4 and flopping A 10 7 is very problematic at a table like that, since you may be up against players also limping with any A.

One thing that people do not do enough of is bet your draws. You absolutely must raise and bet your draws the majority of the time. You need to get used to the idea of using the fold equity of a given flop to move the winning %s in your favor.

You- 8s7s
Opponent-QdQc

Flop- As Js 5d

If you check this flop over, and he bets, you are giving him control of the hand, and when he bets out 1/2 the pot, you have to sit and decide if he is bluffing, if the pot odds are right, and if you have any implied odds. By betting out at this flop, you are putting the hard decision on him. He now has to wonder if you made your A, or if you are bluffing (trust me, it never occurrs to calling stations that someone would raise or bet out on a draw). You are 36% to win the hand, but if he folds only 15% of the time that you lead out with a bet, you are now even money. In addition, by disguising the draw, when it does hit, you check it and many new players will shove all their chips in bluffing the flush, which you just hit.

Poker tournaments are won by building pots and taking them away by forcing other players into mistakes. Otherwise, it would just be a luck contest.

Either way, you need to play few pots, for big chips.

And, YOU need to take control of the table early. If you are in late position, and get a huge hand, I wouldn’t mind seeing you shove it all in if 7 people limp in. I often make inordinately large raises with trash on the button or in a blind if too many people limp on my blind.

So
1)Find out what preflop raise amount will thin the field for a given hand, whether its 8x, 10, or 12x the BB
2)Play huge hands for huge pots against 1-2 players
3)Play great drawing hands if you can limp in, especially when the blinds are small, in an attempt to be one of those players who builds a stack and gets to push the table around. Suited connectors, suited As, maybe suited Ks, and small pairs looking to flop a set.
Some tells-
Players who “shuffle” their cards or slide one above and under the other are on a draw. Strong, dominant moves indicate a bluff. A player who sits back when a card hits the board just made his hand. A player whose hand is shaking as he bets just hit a MONSTER hand.

Do not watch the cards hit the board. They do not matter, and they do not change. Watch the other players.

Eventually, you will have to learn to play with trash, because you are going to have dry runs of cards in any big tourney. In a small friendly tourney, you may just get a dry run the first 2 hours and you are pretty much out of luck. When that happens, there isn’t much you can learn, just chalk it up to “one of those things” and wait til the next one.

Once you are more experienced (TOURNEY PLAY ONLY), you can start playing more like the Gus Hansens/Negraneau type of player (I’ve adopted this style slowly but surely myself), where you aren’t playing to survive the first rounds, but to build a huge chip stack and run through everyone. Basically, you can RAISE with any two cards, or any flop, or any hand, that you want, because your aggression and the fact that no one knows if you have 35s or AA makes them very wary to play any hand with you. You can steal many pots, and when you do have a monster, often get paid off.

FWIW, I freerolled and qualified to the main event the last 2 years through Bodog and finished 583rd last year after my QQ got busted by Ad4d flopping 3 diamonds when he called almost 1/2 his stack on my reraise preflop. With A4. He had 105K chips to my 102K.

Except that elaborate moves don’t work on a calling station. And they certainly don’t work on a table full of them.

Also, keep in mind that this discussion is calibrated to make things as simple as possible for someone who clearly states that they have no interest in learning the deeper dynamics of the game. They just want to rake a few pots in their direction in a home game–which incidentally plays more like a cash game than a tournament, and as I am sure you must know, is a whole other game.