As mentioned, read the maintenance instructuions and schedules in the owner’s manual. It is the first word in maintenance (but not the last word – often it’s beneficial to do some services not mentioned in the owner’s manual). Pay attention to the two schedules – “regular service” vs. “severe service,” or “schedule A” vs. “schedule B,” however they are designated – and determine which applies to your driving habits.
For most cars with common driving habits, an oil, filter, and lube ( = checking and topping up the basic fluid levels) service is called for every 3,000-5,000 miles. (The recommended intervals keep getting longer with the newer cars.) Tire rotation is usually appropriate every 6,000-10,000 miles, or every other oil change in most cases.
Other than that, the scheduled maintenance tends to come in 15,000 mile intervals, with fairly long lists at every 30,000 miles.
Dealerships tend to develop their own maintenance schedules, which usually have more than what’s in the manufacutrer’s schedule (the one in the owner’s manual). It is perhaps debatable whether the additional items are “needed” or cost-effective, but usually they are beneficial to some degree. Dealerships also tend to have package prices for doing the various maintenances (e.g., 15,000 mile service, 30,000 mile service).
It usually costs a bit more to have the services done at dealerships as opposed to independent facilities. Overall, it’s essentially a matter of personal preference whether to have maintenance done at a dealership or at an independent garage. As long as the maintenance is done properly and on time, warranty coverage will not be affected. However, it can sometimes be an advantage to be a regular customer at the dealership in certain “gray area” warranty situations. Nevertheless, lots of people choose either option and it generally works out fine.
Failing the change the oil in a timely manner shortens the life the engine. It doesn’t affect performance, it affects longevity. Engine overhauls are expensive. Oil changes are cheap.
Tires low on pressure, or with significantly uneven treadwear from failure to rotate, can be treacherous in certain situations. Check and rectify the pressure once a month. Find the recommended pressure on a label somewhere on the car, on in the owner’s manual. The tire’s maximum pressure, which is on the tire itself, is generally not the pressure to use.
Some owner’s manuals actually have do-it-yourself instructions for some items. Check the maintenance/service portion of the manual and determine what you would feel confident doing yourself. Don’t worry about a grease gun, there almost certainly are no grease fittings on the car. An aftermarket manual (e.g. Chilton or Haynes) is usually quite adequate. However, you might want to consider buying a factory service manaual. They aren’t cheap, but they’re thorough and sometimes very valuable if service is needed while traveling.
The advice of a repair professional, at the dealership or an independent garage, can be very helpful with respect to helpful services not listed in the owners’s manual and to particular quirks of the specific type of car.
I’m sorry to have to disagree with SeekingTruth, but…
1. Change the oil every 2-3k miles min (plus the filter) more often if towing or in dusty conditions, prolly not a concern in England?
No harm done if you can afford it, but that’s probably about twice as often as the factory recommendation.
2. Every 2 years minimum, flush and fill the radiator, more for rust protection than cooling/anti-freeze
Okay with conventional antifreeze, but if the car has long-life antifreeze, it won’t need it this often.
3. air filter once or twice a year (again depending on dust)
Except when often driving in very dusty conditions, most air filters are good for 30,000 miles.
4. every 5 years get the transmission and differential fluids changed
Fine for manual transmission. If it’s an automatic, more frequent service (every 30,000 miles) is usually appropriate.
5. fuel filter maybe at 10 years (prolly won’t need, but if you get to the point you need it, get the gold card out).
Huh? I would say it’s wise to replace the fuel filter at 60,000 miles. Ten years at average yearly mileage is asking for trouble. And gold card? They’re not that expensive.
Your standard lubes should be included at every oil change. I do this myself, but if you don’t know what areas need attention, just spend the money for the oil change. Trust me, the convenience of an oil change is worth the savings on possible trans/differential repairs.
Here I agree, typically a properly done oil, filter, and lube will include inspecting and checking a number of minor items that really should be checked regularly to avoid problems.
6. Only for front drives (FWD or 4x4) every 50k miles have the c/v (constant velocity) bearings repacked.
Uh, there’s no such thing as a CV bearing. CV joints are contained in rubber boots, no service needed unless the boot gets torn (it’s possible to service the joints, but in the long run probably would cost more than to simply replace them when they finally wear out). Front wheel bearings typically are sealed, no service is possible.
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