Advice on cycling to work?

In My Humble Opinion
41

An hour should be more than enough for 12 miles, traffic and lights allowing. If you’re of moderate fitness you’ll be able to do the round trip straight away, but a practice run on a weekend might well be a good idea.

Let’s see, 2 hours of moderate cycling a day will burn between 560 and 840 calories a day. If your weight is currently stable, and you do not eat anymore, you’ll lose around a pound a week. You will also be gaining muscle, so yes this would be a very effective way to lose inches and keep fit

OK, you’ve mentioned prices in pounds, so I’ll take a wild stab and say you live in the UK. You’ve identified your needs nicely, so forget spending £300. Purpose designed commuter bikes are ideal for your needs, and far cheaper than sports bikes. As an example, have a look at Edinburgh Bicycle’s ridiculously well priced Connection Everything you’ll need for commuting, and none of the things you don’t, all for under £150. I use one of their commute bikes for…well commuting strangely enough, and find it far better for riding around town than my vastly more pricey mountain bike. I wouldn’t bother with suspension at all - on roads it just means more weight for no gain.

Extra gear I’d recommend:

  1. Helmet. No argument.
  2. Good backpack, preferably with a drink bladder. You’ll want to change shirt when you get to work, and an hours cycling on a hot day is thirst work
  3. Bike computer, so you can log miles, calories and times. The wireless ones are a peace of piss to install and start at £30
42

Oh, I forgot to mention, I commute to an office with no shower. I use Old Spice Cool Contact wipes after the ride in. A fellow worker who rides into work uses Baby Wipes.

43

Sigh. Since I’m apparently the ‘anti helmet guy’, some questions:

Question 1: Do I wear a helmet when cycling?

Question 2: Did you read my initial post? Or just leap straight into reading the bits between the lines?

A Summary: I quoted a link to some of Mayer Hillman’s writings, and from your response, it seems unlikely that you read the link? So, some more points to note:

  • Hillman is NOT saying ‘do not wear a helmet’.

  • He is NOT saying ‘wearing a helmet is bad’.

  • He is NOT ‘anti helmets’ in a blanket sense.

  • He is questioning the effectiveness of a cycle helmet in accidents involving vehicles. Such accidents represent a disproportionately high number of cyclist fatalities.

  • He is questioning the philosophy of helmet-wearing, specifically that forcing cyclists to wear a helmet acts to remove some of the safety responsibility from motor vehicles.

  • He suggests that risk compensation may lead to more risk-taking behaviour in helmet-shod (sic) cyclists.

He provides various additional arguments and justifications. If interested, just follow the link! But please do not leap between those damn lines and label me ‘the anti-helmet guy’!

Belrix provided an example of a cycle fall where the helmetless cyclist ended up cabbageified. This vehicle-less collision is exactly the sort of case where a cycle helmet IS designed to work. This type of situation is quite separate from Hillman’s arguments wrt cycle helmets and vehicles.

And on to…

Others would agree with you , though people often misinterpret Hillman’s position as ‘don’t wear a helmet’ as opposed to ‘think (about the helmet wearing issue)!’ TBH, I get the impression that Hillman is more about the philosophical aspects of helmet wearing, rather than battering at the door of statistics.

Wrt requirements for cycle events - bear in mind that helmets ARE generally designed to protect against cycle falls (sans truck and such), which are quite possible in a race.

A brief bit o’ personal philosophy-guff for people to spit at: I happen to disagree with the enforcement of helmet wearing (anywhere), and believe that it’s up to the individual to weigh up the pros, cons and risks, and make their own informed decision.

Similar helmety issues appear in plenty of other areas: rock climbing, motorcycling, etc etc.

Phew! Long, tangential…

44

One thing that was touched on but not gone in depth could ruin your ride:

Beware of the angry “Flat Gods” & prepare for the worst. So I would suggest you buy a patch kit, an extra tube, pump, tire levers and if possible a “mini” tool of some sort. Nothing will ruin a ride to work than getting a flat halfway there with nothing to fix it. Plus having some knowledge of bicycle repair is awfully helpful, the folks at the bike shop will gladly give you instruction on how to patch a tire (always make sure the glue it totally dry before you apply the patch), and some basic bicycle repair. If not see if there is a local cycling club they sometimes have free classes on bicycle maintnence and repair.

I would also scout around for a bicycle shop near work in case you have bike problems on that end of your ride.

45

Mein Gott!

Zee Helmet Wars have come to the SDMB!

Best of luck Bibliovore, I’ve been car-free for several years now, m’self.

46

I would suggest that you rent a bike and ride the route on a weekend in order to get an idea of what hazards exist on the route and how much time/effort it will take. That may make a difference on what type of bike you buy – if it is flat and smooth, with no hazards, you will probably want a lightweight road bike. If there are hazards, you may want something sturdier. If more hilly than you thought (and even a slight incline is much more noticeable on a bike) then you may want more gearing.

By hazards, I mean you should look out for those things that you never notice while driving. Are there sewer grates or drains with long slots parallel with the roadway? Those can swallow a tire almost whole. Are there sharp curves? A motorist can come up on you suddenly and not see you until the last second. Gravel can be very nasty and slippery. Train crossings can also be slippery, especially at an angle and when wet.

Be as visible as possible. Use broad and obvious hand signals. Wear bright clothing. I used to wear a bright red windbreaker with a large triangle done on the back in reflective tape.

Be especially careful at dusk and at night. Dusk can actually be more dangerous – your lights don’t show up as much as they do at night. I used a light strapped to my leg – the motion made it more visible. The flashing bright LEDs are a good idea also, they didn’t have those when I used to bike.

Good luck and have fun!

47

I use those self sealing tubes. I don’t worry about the weight, because that just makes it better exercise!

48

I tried to using one of those. I ended up getting a money shot from the inner tube.

49

Bit late into this thread, but a couple of quick things:

  1. These Tirefly thingies - http://tinyurl.com/9p1b - keep you nice and visible in the dark and I think they look kind of cool too.

  2. Lots of people have been saying front suspension is not necessary on tarmac. Hmm, well I used to cycle to work in London, and the roads there can be anything but smooth. I was very grateful for my front shocks when I hit invisible pot holes/drains/manholes/toddlers at speed.

50

Those road conditions are true for most of the UK. To be honest though, front suspension is just not necessary for roads. Front forks are heavy, need maintenance, add cost and are just overkill for the odd pothole or drain.

51

So what about “touring” Cycles? They look like racing bikes with curved handlebars, but also have rear (and sometimes front) racks for panniers. Are they suitable for everyday commuting, or are they just for long-distance professionals?

If flats are such a hassle, should I ask for kevlar tyres, or is that just another gimmick?

I’ve also noticed a difference of opinion on how much I’ll need to spend on a bike. Some have said that I don’t need to spend £300 and that there are perfectly good bikes out there for half that amount. But others are of the firm opinion that “you get what you pay for” and that £300 isn’t really enough for a decent bike. So now I’m confused.

Should I avoid false economy and get the most expensive bike I can afford, or should I look for a bargain from a reputable manufacturer?

52

Flats are a hassle no matter how you look at it, if you want to protect yourself the most get a set of kevlar tires (Specalized makes a really good set of kevlar tires that are fairly cheap) and some tire liners, these go between your tire and inner tube and can stop most punctures I would recommend getting “Slime Liners” over most other brands. They are softer and have less of a chance of getting brittle. Keep your tire pressure at the correct level this will give you a better ride and will prevent most “pinch flats”

But you could go with solid steel tires and the “Flat Gods” will still find a way to make them flat. So be prepared to get a flat and know how to change one. You can practice taking out the tube and putting it back on at your house till you get it right. Having a spare inner tube makes the changing of the flat much faster and you can patch the other one at work or at your house. Patched tubes, if done right, can last for a long time my personal record is a tube with 13 patches on it before the valve broke.

Flats are a way of life, you will get them when you don’t want one but if you are prepared for it things are not so bad.

Aside from that ride your bike all over the damm place it grows on you.

53

:eek: :eek: :eek:

Maybe you should define “toddlers”. I hope you don’t mean you ran over an ambulatory kid under the age of 4…

54

Rule 1 of bikes - you do indeed get what you pay for.
Rule 2 - you sometimes get what you don’t need.

The premium cost of bikes is usually incurred in two factors: losing weight and getting the latest kit.

A 2002 bike will usually be identical in most every factor to a 2003, but you’ll see massive discounts for the former. This is purely because bike manufacturers are in this to make a profit, and some people are prepared to pay a large premium for the very latest gear. Now I like new gear more than most, and my mountain bike is testimony to that. For my commuting bike though, I’m expecting to run it in the rain, store it outside, get the odd nudge from other road users…all factors that make me look more at baseline cost than latest toys.

The other main cost is weight. If you’re racing, then saving a few grams can make the difference between 1st and 2nd. OK usually it won’t but if you’ve been training solidly for a year are you going to take a change, especially when you see rivals with titanium and alloy components. Again, people pay a premium for this. For a commuter what really is the point paying large sums for fractional savings of weight.

So think about what you need - a simple comfortable bike, with a solid frame, that’s reliable and easy to service. If you get hooked (and you probably will) you’ll get lots of opportunity to spend money on a state of the art mountain or road bike. Till then - why spend money when you don’t need to?

Have a look at Edinburgh, or pick up a copy of MTB or MBUK for a whole range of adverts.

As for tourers, they’re really designed for long milage with bags. The curved handlebars are great for long runs, allowing you a more streamlined position and also to change positions to avoid backache, but not much cope for town or traffic when you want to have your head up to see whats happening.

55

I would not worry too much about the shape of the bars since they can easily be replaced.

56

It’s the hardest question of all to answer. We don’t know just how seriously you want to take up cycling. Chances are, you don’t know either. You don’t until you’re fit enough to really start enjoying yourself.
My advice would be to get a reasonably good(£300) bike. Or less. Try second hand if you can find one that fits. Borrow a friend’s if you can. Use it to get fit enough (weekend rides, maybe trying for the office one day) until you can make the decision.

Am I enjoying cycling? If yes - good - carry on Maybe you’ll keep the cheap bike, maybe you’ll trade up to something nice one day. If no - why? Is it the crappy weather, being sweaty at work, takes too much time, or is it that you like cycling, but hate the bathtub you are currently pedalling.

57

There are different philosophies about what to get in a bike, because there are many people out there who ride for different reasons-- just like cars.

But Bib, look at why you’re riding: to commute, on a daily basis, in all sorts of weather.
Some people ride to race (or act that way). They’ll spend loads of money to save a few grams on components. You don’t need that, because you’re going to be carrying water, a change of clothes, and other things.

Some people ride to go up and down hills off road. You’re not one of those people, so you don’t really need front and back shocks. You might want one in your seat post, but that’s mostly for comfort.

What you do want to spend money on is components that won’t need a lot of maintenance. For the price you’ve posted, you should be able to get a very serviceable bike that will last you for years. And you’ll get more biking experience.

Think of it like a car. If you were going to buy your first car in years, would you pick up a massive SUV or a Porsche? Or would you go for some second-hand beater that’ll do you well until you figure out what you really want?

58

I’m a former cyclist myself, here are my opinions:

– Wear a helmet. Even though I didn’t for a long time, I recommend it as $hit happens. Plus, drivers in general (whom you have to worry about) will take you more seriously, honestly.

– Allow yourself time. 12 miles in about an hour is about right for street riding, but, here again, you are open to hazards that four-wheelers easily avoid. Give yourself an extra half-hour, at least,, for a “situation cushion”.

– If you can only have one light, make it a rear one. It makes all the difference in the world to drivers. Get some reflective tape, too, and use it.

– If you can, avoid all riding to “presentable” places when the temperature is 80 degrees or over.

– In the absense of ankle straps or “cycle clips”, rubber bands work well. These are more important than you think (especially during that “wide-leg” jeans fad, in my case :rolleyes: ) Shorts are an option, but if you fall, that’s that.

– Use hand signals on turns; it’s just a courteous thing to do, if not the lawful thing to do.

– A walkman helps to pass the time considerably; however, it also helps to impair your hearing, so I am not recommending this.

– Carry a spare tube (not flatless with that gunk in it), patch kit, tools, and a certain amount of expertise. I like to avoid those “flatless” tubes because once you get a hole in it that too big to seal (yet could be repaired with a patch), that’s it. Carry some Kleenex and Purell, too, to keep your hands clean.
Everything else has been adressed, I think.

59

I used to have a 13-mile commute to my old job and started biking in once or twice a week with a hybrid bike (which worked for me). While getting up to higher fitness levels, consider driving to work with your bike one day (assuming your place of work has a parking lot with overnight privileges), and bike home. No time pressure to figure out how well the ride goes. Then, in the morning, bike to work. That way you are only doing 12 miles a day instead of the roundtrip. Just until you get more comfortable.

Since I wasn’t biking every day, I would carry in extra clothing on my “car days.”

Also, every here seems to think an hour will be enough for you, but I was in reasonably good shape and an hour was about my best time. I guess it depends on the traffic lights and such in your area. I was crossing a lot of big streets, so there were many wasted (e.g., phew I’m resting) minutes in my ride.

You’ll love it. You arrive to work invigorated and happy, instead of traffic-cranky. I sure miss it.

Other than that, blah blah helmet and gloves good! blah blah. And make sure you know how to change a flat quickly.

60

I biked to my first job in the early 70s on nice days. It was only three miles, though, so it’s not comparable to yours. And I did it on a 3-speed without a helmet.

I like brickiebee’s suggestion of splitting the commute at first. Alternatively, do your first commute on a Friday so you have the weekend to recuperate if you need to.