My “Brakes” light on my '02 Sable started coming on occasionially after I would finish turning a corner. I thought it might be the parking brake lever slipping from the side load, but I think I might be wrong on that now.
Anyway, after I decided to check it out, I pulled over and did the test where you press down on the brake pedal and see if it keeps going down. After 20 seconds it did move down, slightly.
I’ve grounded the car until I have it towed to the shop, but anyone have speculation as to whether I’ll have to tap the House Slant warchest to get her fixed, or whether it’ll be a day’s wages?
You almost certainly have low brake fluid, especially if you only noticed the indicator come on on turns. In all likelyhood, there is nothing wrong with your brake master cylinder. Next time, look at the side of the master cylinder and look at the level. There are 2 level marks, one for hot and one for cold. Check the cold level in the morning before your drive, and the hot when you get to your destination. If either is low, add the proper amount of brake fluid(available at any service station).
Hope this helps for next time!
I’ve never seen a brake fluid reservoir marked “Hot” and “Cold”. They’re typically marked “Max” and “Min”. Nevertheless, it’s a virtual certainty that the warning light coming on when the vehicle is accelerating somehow (turns, take-offs, braking) is caused by the fluid being at the “minimum” level and sloshing around.
Almost always the fluid level is low due to normal gradual wear of the brake pads. As the pads wear, the caliper pistons move in behind them, and the brake fluid follows. This is precisely why there are “Max” and “Min” marks on the reservoir, and why there’s so much fluid space between those marks. Generally, there’s no need to top up the fluid - what is called for is to have the brakes inspected for wear. It’s a pretty safe bet the pads need replacement.
(Fluid can also be low due to a leak, but then the light stays on and the fluid level drops fairly rapidly. In this situation the fluid should be topped up, and if there’s any question about it “running out” don’t drive the car - have it towed. The OP description does not fit this scenario in any way I can see.)
“After 20 seconds it did move down, slightly” is not a typical description of master cylinder symptoms. When the brake pedal fades away with faulty master cylinder, it usually goes down a very noticeable amount, and to a “stop” that feels like the pedal has hit something hard. Can’t hurt to have it checked by a shop, but I doubt there’s a problem here.
Forgot to mention, the fluid level will be restored when the pads are replaced.
Well, just got my $15 worth, again.
Gary T, thanks for doing your day job for me for free!
hekk, thanks for your input!
Anyone else who chimes in despite the OP appearing to be answered, thanks for your help!