Another London Thread : Planning a Short Stay (Visits and Public Transport)

In My Humble Opinion
1

There’s been a few threads on London recently and as a result, I’ve decided to go back there in December. Amazingly, it’s been over 9 years since I last visited and, unfortunately, it won’t be a long stay. My wife and two daughters are coming along and, for all practical purposes, it’ll be the first time there for both of them (my eldest daughter was 9 months old the last time we went).

Day 1 : We’ll be arriving at King’s Cross on a Tuesday around 6pm. I reckon that we’ll probably be in our hotel room about an hour later (Tower Hill Station). It’ll be too late to do much but I’d love to go for an evening walk as soon as we get there. Tower Bridge is nearby and so is the HMS Belfast, so we’re probably going to see that. Anything else you’d recommend in the vicinity ?

Day 2 : That day is the only one that’s more or less fully planned. In the morning, we’ll visit the Tower of London. I suppose that 3-4 hours will be enough, which means that if we leave the hotel around 10am, we should be done by mid-afternoon. Next, I’d like to get the tube to Westminster Station. From there, we’ll walk past the Palace of Westminster, then head to Trafalgar Square, Piccadily Circus, Leicester Square and then, EITHER north-west towards Regent Street and Oxford Circus OR north-east towards Covent Garden. Feel free to suggest which direction would be best and what to see, considering that we’ll have two children in tow. They’re used to walking but by then, we’ll have been visiting mostly on foot for 6-7 hours.

Day 3 : We’ll go to Camden Town in the morning. I was hanging out there all the time when in lived in London in the mid-90s and it remains a must-see every time I go back, mainly for the nostalgia. Like on Day 2, we should be ready to see something else around 2 pm. And this is where I, not so much run out of ideas, but actually can’t decide what to prioritize. So any suggestions are welcome as long as they’re kid-friendly and within zones 1 and 2. Historical, fun or just plain weird places have priority.

Day 4 : We’re leaving already but at 2 pm. Since we must check out at 11 am at the latest, we can still probably cram a short visit before we go. Same critieria as above.

So, in short, I need two 2- or 3-hour long activities, one for Day 3 (3 pm-evening) and another for Day 4 (11 am-1 pm at the latest). I’m considering, more or less in that order :

  • Westminster Abbey.
  • St Paul’s Cathedral area (what could we see apart from the cathedral ?).
  • A museum (Natural History Museum, British Museum or National Gallery).
  • Hyde Park area (in winter…)
  • Sherlock Holmes Museum (tourist trap ?).
  • Cutty Sark (still worth it after the fires ?).
  • London Eye (I hate Ferris wheels but my daughters love them. Still, again, tourist trap ?).

I’m not interested in stuff like the London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds or the Hard Rock Cafe. As I said above : historical, fun or weird places.

And while I’m at it, should I buy two Visitor Oyster cards in advance or two Travelcards when I arrive ? We’ll stay in Zones 1 and 2, walk quite a bit and only take the tube when necessary i.e. at least twice but probably three or four times a day. I understand that children under 11 travel for free as long as they’re with a paying adult, which is the case.

2

I was in Camden Market last Saturday and found it uncomfortably crowded. Since you’ll be there mid week it might be better. What part of the month will you be there? The xmas shopping frenzy will be in full swing and if it’s after the schools break up it will be even more manic. I’d say avoid Oxford Street at all costs.

You know it’s going to get dark quite early, right? I’m about 40 miles southwest of London an on December 5th (to pick a random December date) the sun will rise at 7:50 and set at 15:56.

3

After visiting London Tower Bridge, walk along the south bank of the Thames to London Bridge. Standing on south side of London Bridge, you’ll find a pretty little church (Southwork Cathedral) with a peaceful rock garden and a giant chess set. Right next to it is the Borough Market. You cannot miss the Borough Market. Plan to have lunch there and walk around to see all the great little shops. It’s one of my best memories of our London trip this past October.

After you visit the market, walk back out to the Thames, past the Sheakespear’s Glove Theater to the Millennium Bridge, just in front of the Tate Modern Museum. Cross the Millennium bridge - great views - and it takes you directly to St. Paul’s.

When in Camden, take the London Waterbus cruise of the Regent canal.

4

Oh, with respect to public transit options, the Oyster card is your best bet. You can also use it to commute on the Thames Clipper fleet which sails up and down the Thames. It’s the most modern, spacious and cleanest commuter boat on the river (IMO). With a few stops in between, you can use it to sail between London Bridge pier and Westminster pier. Both piers are at the foot of the named attractions. There’s a boat every 20 minutes so no long waits and far fewer tourists.

5

I must confess, your ‘pretty little church’ description made me chuckle. I mean, it’s damn great cathedral! Perhaps not on the scale of St Paul’s, but still.

I fully endorse your advice on Borough Market and walking the South Bank. It’s an ancient market (at least dating back to the 13th century, from memory), and is a foodie paradise. Lot’s of nice restaurants around it too.

6

You’re right, of course. It seemed humbled by the bridge on one side and the tube tracks overhead.

Holy crap you’re old! :wink:

7

First, thanks a lot for your answers. I don’t have much time right now, so this post will be short.

Southwork Cathedral and Borough Market: I’ll check these out. This is exactly the sort of advice I wanted. I’d never have thought of these places.

Thames Clipper fleet: sounds great, too.

The sun will set very early, I know but it’s ok. We went to Paris 2 years ago at exactly the same period (late December) and it wasn’t a problem. Actually, I’m sure my youngest daughter will love the bright lights.

Camden Market will be overcrowded, I know but as I said, I’ll spend some time there for the memories.

And I’ll order 2 Visitor Oyster Cards in advance.

8

If you don’t mind a bit of exercise, in my opinion the view from the top of St Paul’s Cathedral is better than that from the London Eye. The route to the top is also more fun, lots of twisty little passages and knee-trembling stairways - mass tourism wasn’t a thing when they built it.

9

Perfect.

Plan B would be to stay on the South Bank and keep walking along the river to Westminster Bridge - obv. The Houses of Palriament are right there by the bridge.

You could then jump on the tube for about 4 stops to Blackfriars and get off for St Pauls.

btw, you ever strolled arond Temple - right there on the way through?

10

Another church, near the Tower of London and Tower Bridge is All Hallows By the Tower. Although a lot of the church was rebuilt after WW II, there’s a lot of history there. Beheaded bodies from the Tower of London used to be taken there. William Penn was baptised there and John Quincy Adams was married there. There are also Roman remains. I spent about 30 minutes there my last trip.

11

Great suggestions, thanks. I’ve changed my plans accordingly.

Day 1: (starting around 7:30pm) Tower Bridge, walk along the Thames to London Bridge, Southwark Cathedral, Borough Market, cross the Thames, Monument and finally All Hallows By the Tower (is it the picturesque church behind the Tower of London near Pepys Street ? I spotted it on Goole Streetview yesterday).

Day 2: I may change my initial plan and start with Westminster Abbey because visits finish very early, then Trafalgar Square, Piccadily Circus, Leicester Square and, as I said, EITHER north-west towards Regent Street and Oxford Circus OR north-east towards Covent Garden. It’ll probably be Oxford Street because my wife has mentioned it but otherwise lets me decide what we’ll do. If we have the time, we’ll probably get to Marble Arch then walk along Hyde Park (Bayswater Road or Park Lane ?)

Day 3: Tower of London from morning until 2-3pm then St Paul’s Cathedral. What else should we do in the area until evening ?

Day 4: Camden Market from morning until 1pm, then it’ll be time to go back to King’s Cross Station already.

12

I don’t know what days of the week your days 1 thru 4 land on but if you intend tovisit Borough Market, I’d make sure it’s not a Monday or Tuesday. The market isn’t fully operating on those days. What’s more, I’m not sure how many of the vendors are open late in the evening (per your day 1), most close by 5pm. I suggest you move the Borough Market visit to mid day of your Day 3, if that works out with the days of the week per above.

13

As you are staying at Tower Hill I’d also recommend booking a visit to the Skygarden. It is free, it is higher than the London eye with great views over the tower, the city, HMS belfast, Tower bridge etc.
Also, on your walk up through Westminster to Trafalgar Square I say take that opportunity to go into the National Gallery. I always suggest if you only have a short time then walk in and visit the galleries on the right. Monet, Van Gogh, Degas, Seurat, Turner, Stubbs, Constable plus a host of lesser known but sublime pieces. (and it is free of course)

14

You may need up to four, depending upon the ages of your children.

15

One other option in your hotel area is TheMonument. Just a few quid and you can walk up to the top of it. An interesting diversion if you are looking to pass half an hour or so.

16

If you’re starting at 19:30 that’s far too much to do. The Monument - and pretty much everything else - will be closed in the evening anyway. And it will be dark. I suggest you leave it to the next day or day 3, so you can also visit the nearby church of St Magnus the Martyr. The inside is wonderful.

The visit to the Tower won’t take that long. Get there first thing, then walk along the north bank to St Magnus and the Monument - you’ll get a good view of HMS Belfast along the way - then St Paul’s. Don’t bother with the Tube - it’s all walkable, even for a child.

17

OK, our visit is shaping up nicely thanks to you, in spite of the tight programme. Here are a few remaining points:

  • My daughters are under 11, so they don’t need Oyster Cars, or do they ?

  • The Skygarden looks interesting, I’ll see if we can squeeze it in our schedule.

  • Day 1 : I know that we won’t have the opportunity to visit those places but at least we’ll have a look at the exterior, including St Magnus the Martyr, and I’ll tell my daughters about them. By the way, where’s the giant chess set ? They’ll probably like it.

-** Day 2** : the programme is now pretty much set. We’ll try to make a quick visit to the National Gallery, as Novelty Bobble has suggested.

  • Day 3 : Tower of London, then St Paul’s Cathedral but I’m still usure about what we’re going to do after that. For the moment, I’m thinking of walking down Ludgate Hill and Fleet Street to see Staple Inn and the Royal Courts of Justice. From there, reaching Covent Garden should be doable if we’re not too tired.

  • Day 4 : Camden Market from 10-11am until 1pm. I remember there were several second-hand bookstores. Is there one you’d recommend ?

18

No they defintely don’t need any sort of ticket. The easiest thing to do is, when going in and out of the barriers on the tube, look for the wide gates that people use for luggage or strollers. These are normally off to one side and have an attendant nearby sometime. They work in exactly the same way as normal gates but are (duh!) wider and stay open longer so one adult simply badges in/out and strolls through through taking a child with you. Easier than risking the single person gates swinging shut while trying to shepherd a child through as well.

It is quick and easy to get in and out of for a half hour dose of high culture, but don’t blame me if you spend longer than intended. I think my daughter could spend an hour just staring at “whistlejacket” and my wife the best part of morning with “The execution of Lady Jane Grey”. Her dress is exquisitely done. These are both in the section of the gallery I mentioned earlier.

19

Lots of good advice here, and I’m a bit late to this thread, but if you have kids under 11 who are fans of natural history, the NHM is an excellent way to spend half a day or so. It’s giant, full of some really excellent collections, and free. I’m not sure where you’d it it into your schedule, but I’d definitely recommend it.

If you do happen to walk down Fleet St, please do wave - I work just off it towards the river. :slight_smile:

20

The Wallace Collection is good and rather smaller.