Another London Thread : Planning a Short Stay (Visits and Public Transport)

Funny, I was just writing a post adressing this very question !

Thanks again for all your suggestions. Some feedback :

1 - It was great to be in London again ! And the weather was really fine, cool but very sunny.

2 - The city has changed a lot since I lived there. 122 Leadenhall Street, the Gherkin, the Shard and 20 Fenchurch Street didn’t exist then, but were impossible to miss and consequently very useful to find our way, especially the last two.

3 - I had forgotten how cramped (point 2 may have something to do with it) and disparate the city is. In several places, you’d see Victorian tenements, a late 17th century church and an ultra modern high-rise within metres of each other. I had a moment of confusion in the Tower of London when I saw the Shard protruding seamlessly from the top of the Wakefield Tower :smack:. Weird at first but not without charm.

4 - I shouldn’t have worried about the Oyster Cards: they were available on the Eurostar with a 15£ credit, which turned out to be more than enough for our stay.

5 - Call me crazy but I still love the Tube…

6 - Day 1 went more or less according to plan. We arrived at the hotel around 6:45 pm and almost immediately walked to Tower Bridge, had a look at HMS Belfast, then went to Southwark Cathedral (very picturesque in the evening, I loved it and will try to visit it next time I’m there), London Bridge and All Hallows By the Tower. In Southwark, we also spent some time in a big gallery with a weird fountain, which my daughters enjoyed. Any idea what it’s called ?

7 - We also managed to see most of what I had planned on Day 2. My daughters insisted on taking the boat instead of the Tube. As result, we got to Westminster Abbey later than I had planned but it turned out ok (there was a long queue, though). We then went to the National Gallery. Turning right to see the impressionists was a great piece of advice: it allowed us to see everything we wanted and still have some left time for a quick look at the Flemish paintings in the opposite aisle. We finished with Leicester Square, Piccadily Circus, Regent Street and Oxford Street (all of them packed of course) but stopped at Marble Arch because we didn’t have enough energy for Hyde Park and Buckingham Palace.

8 - We visited the Tower of London on Day 3 but stayed over 3h (fascinating). As a result, I changed my plans because night was falling already and it wouldn’t have been ideal for more sightseeing. We went to Camden Town instead and had a really good time. As soon as we got there, my eldest daughter saw a t-shirt with Mickey Mouse flipping us the bird and she kept on mentioning it throughout the evening (I had told her it was a peculiar kind of market). My youngest daughter fell in love with what she called “the shop from the future” (loud 70s-sounding electronic music, bright neon lights and lots of futuristic-looking items) However, is it me or has it gotten more touristy and less weird over the years ? There were still some delightfully strange places but also many more regular tourist shops than I remembered.

9 - On Day 4, we spent our final hours in London doing what was orginally planned for the afternoon of Day 3 : St Paul’s Cathedral - Ludgate Hill - the Maughan Library - Staple Inn and finally Covent Garden where we got the Tube back to King’s Cross. It was not so pleasant unfortunately because we left the hotel rather late, it turned out to be longer than I expected and my youngest daughter was tired. It was mainly walking as briskly as possible stopping a couple of minutes to take pictures and hurrying to the next place on the list while looking at my watch. We made it to the station on time for the train but only just.

10 - Bribing you daughters with little gifts is a great way to have them agree to see one more thing. They didn’t seem very enthusiastic when we were there but were sad when we left and still remember quite fondly most of the places we visited, which was my goal. And, the icing on the cake, they said they liked it better than Paris, which they had loved.

Good for you, you packed loads in and I’m not surprised your little one started to flag.

Still, very glad you enjoyed it.

Glad you enjoyed the trip.

Congested as the city is, one of the many lasting impressions I have is how courteous most Londoners were.

Eat anywhere memorable?

As fas as I’m concerned, enjoying London was a given.

I must admit that my main objective was showing it to my daughters, hoping they’d like it. And it seemed to have worked: yesterday, when they realised it had been almost two weeks since we had been there, they started discussing the things we’d seen, deciding which one they had liked best.

The Tower was as great as I remembered, powerfully evocative. I especially liked the Medieval Palace, the Traitor’s Gate, St John’s Chapel and Tower Green (imagine living in one of these houses… ). My daughters were more interested in the exhibition about prisoners in the Wakefield Tower - they were trying to determine which torture was the most painful. They also found the historical re-enactments very amusing (me, too actually !). There was a clever play-within-a-play in the White Tower which my eldest daughter understood, in spite of the fact that she doesn’t speak English.

Westminster Abbey was also fascinating, especially Poet’s Corner. On the whole, I think I prefer the Tower, though.

And as I said above, we were in a bit of a hurry when we saw St Paul’s Cathedral but I liked it better than before. For once, it was a bit foggy, which added to the overall effect.

I was glad to see that two things that I used to love held up to my memories: Camden Town and the Tube.

But there were lots of things that I didn’t know and, thanks to your suggestions, I also discovered Southwark Cathedral, which is a place that I’m sure to include on my to-see list next time I visit. By the way, the place on the South Bank that I couldn’t identify is Hay’s Galleria, with David Kemp’s moving fountain The Navigators in the middle. I could see us having lunch or just taking a rest there in the future.

Speaking of which, I only realized the day before we got there that I had neglected to take eating into account in my plans :o. Given that my daughters are not exactly culinarily adventurous and there was a KFC within a five-minute walk from our hotel room… But we did go to an Indian Restaurant off Alie Street in the Whitechapel area. My wife loves Indian cuisine, so she told me that I was free to plan our stay as I wanted as long as we went at least once to an Indian restaurant. I spotted this one very close to our hotel and it was really fine - the waiters were particularly helpful.

But, when all is said and done, I guess that what I really love about London isn’t the sights, fascinating as they are. It’s the energy, for lack of a better word, of the city. Paris for instance is arguably a more beautiful and more architecturally “coherent”, neater city. And it sure is busy, too. But there’s something very unique about the way London feels. A vitality, or some sort of genius loci. Heck, I’d even claim there’s a specific smell, sweet and unctuous. Perhaps it’s just me but I think that my daughters and my wife felt it, too.

I know what you mean, it is an architectural mash-up and all the better for it. You climb one of those sleek modern towers and look down on something that is the product of a thousand years of commerce, fire and bombs with small patterns of coherent planning.
Southwark Cathedral, Borough Market and the whole of the South Bank is probably the best example of this.

And St. Paul’s may stick out for you more this time because it underwent a massive clean-up a few years ago and now is gleaming white as intended.

Exactly.

That’s what I was getting at with my observation about the Shard superimposed on the top of the Wakefield Tower. My intial reaction was to see it as jarring. Ditto for the times I was trying to take a picture of a nice old church but couldn’t find a way to leave modern buildings out of it.

But after a while, you just accept it as it is. A mash-up, as you say. A never-ending burst of hyperactivity that piles buildings next to each other.

That may have something to do with it, indeed. I last saw it in 2007. That, and the hint of fog, too.

Not the adjectives I would choose (as a local with diminished sense of smell)!

What hasn’t?

The posh word is “palimpsest”. At its most unposh, London can be a right old bag-lady of a city - but that’s all part of the attraction.

Apologies, im late in posting on this thread. I read it previously and meant to comment that Southwark Cathedral has an original commemorative stone for Shakespeare’s brother. Did you see it? Is it at all a “selling point” on the cathedral tour/visit? As you can perhaps tell im a bit of a Shakespeare geek.

Well, smells are difficult to describe - that was my best shot and it’s not that far off the mark. That’s how I perceived it, anyway.

True, but the delightfully bizarre is still there, fortunately.

I’ll out-posh you with “architectural palimpsest”. And it’s indeed an essential part of its charm.

So you mention Southwark Cathedral and food, but not directly Borough Market (next door) … don’t say you missed it …

Ha! When I was having a brief affair a couple of years ago we used to meet there at lunchtime some days :slight_smile:

We got there too late, it was closed and we didn’t have enough time to go back another day :frowning: .