I have bought a few watches and I have a chance to buy more at what I think is a good price (good per a price guide), are there any pocket watch experts or collectors on the board?
unclviny
Damn. You’re ten years too late. My deceased uncle-in-law had a beautiful collection and would have been able to help. Have you tried a watch repair shop? We have a guy in our town who is an old-fashioned watchmaker (European, and very skilled). He makes his own parts! If you’re interested in talking to him, I can get a number for you.
Since you have a price guide, what’s your next question?
I understand why he’s asking. Price guides are sometimes just about as reliable as asking a random guy on the street what he thinks your item is worth. I work in a museum, and we sometimes use them for the information that they contain about maker’s marks, and such, but would never rely on them for appraisal. (Well, we have no use for appraisals, but we always tell people who ask not to trust the book’s evaluation.)
The antiques/collectibles market is extremely fickle and fluctuating, for one thing, and secondly, many people are not able to accurately judge things like condition, or whether all of the parts are original. We always recommend taking the item to a professional who deals in that item type-- not to an antique store, but to someone such as a reputable restorer. (Your local museum should be able to refer you to who they use for cleaning and repairs.)
However, I wouldn’t suggest calling them to ask their opinion on whether a certain item is a good deal. For that sort of thing, I would recommend joining a club of similarly-interested people. (You can probably find one on the internet, or in the newspaper, or again, try asking your local musem if they know of any enthusiasts’ clubs in the area.) The best way to learn about these kinds of things is through contact with people who have spent years collecting.
Buy the watches if you like them, but at this early stage, I wouldn’t buy anything just for its potential re-sale value. Ask yourself if you would still be happy with your purchase if they turn out to be worth no more than what you paid for them. If the answer is yes, buy them. If nothing else, you can impress a girl at a bar by whipping out a classy pocketwatch when she asks for the time.
UncaV… this is from a thread awhile back. Godzillatemple seems to know quite a bit about watches. I have a few myself but nothing even close to this spectacular collection. Check it out. (moderator I hope it’s cool that I pasted this here. The link wouldn’t work.)
Good luck U/V
BTW Here’s the link to his stuff.
http://barrygoldberg.net/watches.htm
originally posted by godzillatemple
I’m a long-time collector of antique pocket watches and have even written a book on the subject (“The New Collectors Guide to Pocket Watches” to be precise).
By the end of the 19th century, a number of American companies were producing extremely well-made pocket watches that were both accurate and durable. The most famous of these were the so-called “railroad” watches that had to meet stringent requirements for use on the American railroads. These requirements included accuracy to within 30 seconds per week and consistency in timekeeping regardless of the position in which the watch was held. Many watches were made that exceeded these requirements.
Of course, these companies also made much lower grade watches for other markets, and you can’t really point to a single company and say “their watches are the best”. Each company made “premier” watches, however, and these include the following:
Waltham (a.k.a. the American Waltham Watch Company) made the “Vanguard” and the “Riverside Maximus”.
Hamilton made the “940”, the “950” and the “992”.
Illinois made the “Bunn Special” and “Sangamo Special” (each of which came in many different varieties.
Elgin Made the “Veritas” the “B.W. Raymond” and the “Father Time”.
Hampden made the “Special Railway” and the “New Railway”.
The list goes on and on, but any of these watches are likely to last for hundreds of years with proper maintenance (I have a number of them which are already over 100 years old) and really represent the pinnacle of watchmaking technology.
Regards,
Barry
My Pocket Watch Collection
http://barrygoldberg.net/watches.htm
T-Keela,
Thanks for the hot tip, I will be contacting GT soon (he seems knowledgable), I bought 4 watches and I am having them appraised, but 1 of them seems to be “badge engineered” (it has an unfamiliar name on it) but it appears to be well built and it looks right for the period (“Hartford Watch Company”, in a nice hunter case, in excellent condition).
I have questions regarding clubs and such, I sure get a kick out of these old watches, the workmanship is incredible!.
I am still in Nowhere, California, I came out here January 2nd for a couple of weeks and I think I am going home late next month.
unclviny
no prob U/V…had enough of Califonia already?
Coming back home (to Texas IIRC)
Wouldn’t be riding a hog would ya?
How 'bout margaritas and shots, do ya like them too?
Where 'bouts in Texas? I may have to look ya up sometime.
For the novice collectors of pocket watches. Beware of reproduction antique pocket watches. There are some very convincing fakes out there. They can be VERY expensive too.
They’ll often (“unknowingly”) slip a convincing fake in with a few good antique watches and price it well below market value.
Lots of folks will hurriedly make the purchase thinking they “stole” the watch…mm-hmm.
You’ve been warned. 
unclviny Join the NAWCC as it is the biggest and best around. They have local chapter meetings and regional meetings. Most of the members will help you.
I wonder where you got your phrase “badge engineered” in describing your Hartford Watch Company watch?
My offhand guess is that it is a contemporary Swiss import. But I could certainly be wrong. I don’t have my books at home.
The price guide that everyone in the collecting/dealing end of the business gets every year is Shugart’s Price Guid to Watches http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/1574324020/ref=pd_sim_art_elt/104-0331217-8131954?v=glance .
The watches are priced in three grades–Average, Extremely Fine and Mint. It’s really quite simple. To be worth the “Mint” price a pocket watch must have been purchased and NEVER worn or used. It helps to have the original box or case in which it came. Even then, it’s rare for that mythical price to be realized except in the most extremely popular or rare models.
The “Extremely Fine” column represents, in my selling experience, a price that I can sell(retail) a pocket watch that is in its original case(important), and the case has very slight wear. The watch must be running, no cracks in the dial, nothing wrong. And it also helps if the model is popular.
The “Average” or low column represents what we as dealers have little trouble retailing a pocket watch for quickly if the case is still decent(NOT worn through in spots), running, no cracks in dial, and a size 16 or 18 model. 12 size models are not very popular and we sometimes sell a slight bit under book just to move them along.
Currently, railroad grade watches(19-23 jewels) are the rage. You can sell them day in and day out.
Less than 17 jewel models are slow sellers right now.
Models that are listed in the book with stars beside them(scarce beasties) are easy to sell for middle book price, sometimes more.
The prices, on average, are very realistic in the book. There are, of course, instances of models that sell for more than book, and some that sell well under book. But it is, overall, a rather good guide.
T-K,
No hogs for me, I am into British bikes. I live in Clear Lake city (just South of Houston).
SamClem,
Badge engineered is a term used to describe things (motorcycles) that are “rebadged” as someone elses brand (can you say Royal Enfield Indians, I knew you could).
My jeweler called today to tell me that my 2 appraisals are ready, when I get some time off I will head into “the big city” (Bakersfield, CA) and pick them up.
unclviny