Poor design there. It needs substantially more support at the base, a cone or cylinder that extends several inches up the post. I assume that’s a glass top held on with some kind of compression fitting that needs to have a large diameter. It can’t be too tight or rigid or the glass could break.
Do you care about the base and the pole? You could probably find or make a heavier replacement.
The pole could also be replaced with something more substantial. I don’t know how the pole is attached to the base, is there a set screw coming in from the side, or is the bottom threaded somehow to hold a bolt? If that’s a hollow tube you might be able to put a heavy threaded rod through to bolt under and over the base, with a substantial washer underneath. If the top is still a problem you may just need a substantial washer underneath it, just a circle cut from wood might do it.
All you can do with the present design is tighten the connections at the top - maybe replace a worn felt/rubber/? washer that is allowing wobble and tighten the rod to base.
Theoretical;y, the base and rod could be welded, but that would be more expense than replacing the entire table.
I’m guessing 30-36" (1m = 39.?? inches). If you value the ability to access the area under the top (bar table with stools?), forget this, but: find an old dining table using a glass top and swap bases.
You need more support then a 2" rod can give. Get about a 10" disc under the top and make sure the disc doesn’t wobble.
Actually the top part with the glass is relatively stable.
It’s the bottom part where the rod meets the base. There’s a bolt below which holds the rod to the base.mive tightened it as much but it’s still wobbling. I suspect it’s because there is some space between the rod and base.
What can I fill it with?
Welding is a good suggestion but that would take too much work and money.
If the pole isn’t snug in the base you might be able to find a metal tube that fits snugly over it (perhaps aided by some filler like epoxy or Bondo) and fits snug in the base. Get something the full length to strengthen the pole. I suspect that the bolt on the bottom isn’t heavy enough though and without stepping it up there it will eventually work loose. Try Metals Online or places like that to find a metal tube with just the right ID and OD.
But again, you are probably better off with a whole new pole and base.
If there’s space between the pole and the base, you may be able to drive some sort of shim in there. Maybe several. I’ve had luck fashioning things like that out of an old clear plastic ruler, since they have a nice little taper built in and you can cut it to the size you need with any kind of fine-toothed saw.
It would probably be a solid design if the pole was threaded on the bottom, and the base had a solid socket that the pole screwed into.
I’ve worked with metal electrical conduit of about this size, and they connect very securely. Threaded plumbing pipe seems equally secure.
So possibly you could modify this pole & base to use something like that?
Attach a threaded flange connector (like this) solidly to the base, and then take the matching male connector, fit it solidly to the bottom of the pole with glue & bolts, and screw it into the base.
Or maybe completely replace the pole & base completely with electrical conduit or metal plumbing pipe and an appropriately heavy base – you can probably get something that looks acceptable.
You could install tensioning wires from the outside of the base to the bolt , where t the nut goes to the base.
At least it has a few cm of purchase to put some tension onto the thing.
Or you could have the upright inserted into a more substantial base.
Another possible solution is to install a very heavy artwork (or bowl or something ) onto the top, so as to increase the inertia…the resistance to movement.
How about install an X of metal brackets up at the top,. and run tensioning wires down from the outside of each one down to the base… the outside of the circular base. Ruins the looks a bit but the wires don’t have to be suspension bridge cables.
Very good idea. If you can secure that flange to the base, maybe even underneath it, or just a new base, then 1" black or galvanized pipe should be plenty strong. A little paint or just a decorator tube over the pipe and you’re good to go.
If you want to go all out you can get stainless steel flanges and threaded pipe from industrial suppliers like McMaster-Carr, but you can get the much less expensive plumbing pipe and flange from Lowes or the Home Despot right off the shelf, or your local hardware store or plumbing supply.
though the uneven floor isn’t probably the cause of this particular case, if you rotate the base on the floor, many times the table will stabilize.
Here’s a geometric proof of the concept: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OuF-WB7mD6k
In your case though…it appears to be a different problem
Does the bolt never tighten or are you saying that it still wobbles when it is tight?
Was is ever stable?
I think the problem is that the small center area where the column is pulled down onto the base has distorted so that the joint can no longer be tight. You need to spread that load to a larger diameter. A BIG washer on the top and bottom of the base will help. Then make a cardboard washer with a large center hole so that the assembly is clamping at the edge of the washers.
So you have column - big washer(optional?) - base - cardboard ring washer - big washer - bolt. But this only works if the bolt still tightens…
Well Mr. Teddy Bound, I have to say what a fine table. So form my understanding just staring at your table I can give 4 bids to help you:
Duct tape, and some more duct tape. You can tie it around the perimeter of where the table infrastructure and the base conjoint. You can put the tape inside the base and then cement. You should do this before further repairs. But they aren’t the most reliable perhaps I should say.
Glue and some more glue. I would suggest using your over the counter glue. Perhaps home made ones would help. You can surely look up on the internet for some. So anyways, glue shouldn’t be the first option for the most part. You should stick with duct. Gluing would cause some difficulties if you don’t handle like you should. Like I said on No. 1, they aren’t guarantees.