Is the “brain” for the one-touch window control in the switch, the motor, or a separate controller somewhere?
I’d say a combo. On my Toyota when you push the window switch down, there’s kind of a second stage or detent that you have to hit for auto roll down. Same with auto up. But there must be some kind of controller as well to detect the difference.
It depends on the car. I have seen them in the switch controller (What you might call a switch, but actually is a small computer on the car’s network) call a driver’s door module, or a passenger door module. I have seen this small computer also located on the motor itself, and I have seen them as a separate control unit.
Why do you ask?
I didn’t know they made auto ups. Wouldn’t this be a safety hazard?
Not really, it has a sensing circuit that it contacts an obstruction, it reverses.
The sensing circuit on my 2006 Civic is garbage though. From what I can tell from playing with it, it only works once and then has to be reset by rolling the window all the way up and then holding the button for a certain lenght of time. But since there’s no confirmation whatsoever that it’s set you really don’t know if it’s on or off (off becuase you didn’t set it right, or it just doesn’t work properly or whatever), so you try it, well now it’s off again and you’re back to square one.
I’m probably doing something wrong, or there’s something wrong with the one in my car, either way, I can tell you in my car, it doesn’t work.
::: shrug:::
What can I tell you? This circuit works great on Volvos.
If you want an accurate answer, provide the year, make, model, and engine size*.
*Engine size is probably irrelevant to this specific question, but it’s a data point that needs to be entered into the info system before any info can be accessed.
Rick and Gary T,
The purpose of my query is that I’d like to retrofit auto-up on a US model of a car available elsewhere in the world where cars have it on all windows. I figure it’d be relatively easy to pick up the appropriate parts while outside the country then carry 'em with me to the US. I don’t yet have a manufacturer/model picked out, but I’m guessing it’ll be either a Volkswagen or Audi. Maybe Nissan.
Thanks for the suggestions. I now have an idea of which I speak when I start talking to the parts guys.
::: waves arms wildly:::
Danger Will Robinson, Danger, Danger.
It may not be a difference in parts, it may be a difference in software. You can’t buy software for your car on a CD and bring it home. Software for your car doesn’t work that way.
In short, it may not be possible.
I can vouch for this. It worked too well for me on my V50, because I bought one of those sun shade things for the back window (to try to keep direct sun off a whiny toddler) and it was the kind that has a couple of suction cups to keep the bottom down, but the top just hooks over the top of the window glass. I couldn’t use it, because I couldn’t roll the window up all the way with the little hooks over the top of the glass. And they were probably only about 1 mm thick.
And if there’s a difference in wiring, it won’t work and won’t be easy to make it work.
I think you’ll only get a reliable answer on this from someone who has actually done it on the specific model in question. Otherwise you’ll be experimenting.
Sorry to not be of much help, but there’s a world of difference between diagnosing and repairing factory systems (what Rick and I do) and re-engineering those systems.
Thanks everyone for the input. I wasn’t sure if this would be an easy process, but now I know that I must know the specific model before I even try. Ignorance fought and won. I hope. I may end up with my lance in a windmill anyways.