Best type of marker to write on optical media?

Factual Questions
1

I don’t remember exactly what sort of markers I used to write on my old blank CDs/DVDs, but on some of them it’s fading to the point of being barely readable, and on others, I accidentally spilled some water on some CDs and a lot of ink washed off.

So I want to get a new marker that will ideally remain dark and clear for a long time, and not rub/wash/whatever off. Is there a particular type of marker I should use?

Edit: “Permanent” seems the obvious answer, but I thought I’d used one in the past. Are there different kinds?

2

I always use the ones sold specifically in stationery stores as ‘cd markers’ and they seem fine - they dry really quickly and they’re permanent. I got reckless and used one on a DVD once, and it was OK.

3

I’ve tried “CD markers,” but other than a too-broad point, I see nothing to distinguish them from garden-variety marker.

I use the Sharpie series permanent marker. The Extra Fine Point is just right for detailed text on a CD/DVD. The Fine Point is much bolder.

I also use rubber stamps on CD/DVDs. You must use alcohol-based stamp pad inks, not water based. A stamp expert told me the ink in the alcohol stamp pads and the sharpie markers is chemically identical. The stamps take a long time to dry (hours, sometimes), but they do work.

In marking over 2000 CDs/DVDs for 8 years, I have yet to have a read or physical failure that I could attribute to the pens or ink. Stamps – too soon to compare, as I have used them only for a few months.

Beware some colors as some fade quickly. Black seems to be the most permanent. Some purple has faded to near-invisible in just 2 years.

4

I just use ordinary Sharpie blacks as well. They are found anywhere from Wal-Mart to drug stores to supermarkets.

5

Don’t laugh, but everyone knows which side of a disc to write on, right? Writing on the wrong surface won’t be good for your data.

If there’s printing on the surface already, that’s the side to write on. If you have a double-sided disk, don’t write on it at all.

Drying time for Sharpie pens: instant.

6

Sharpies have the added advantage of being alcohol soluble. Marks come right off with a little rubbing alcohol, or whatever other concentrated alcohol you happen to have on hand…

So they’re pretty permanent, until you don’t want them to be.

7

Specifically, use “archival” markers - they’re specially made for CD/DVD with no solvents.

[QUOTE=SenorBeef]
I don’t remember exactly what sort of markers I used to write on my old blank CDs/DVDs, but on some of them it’s fading to the point of being barely readable, and on others, I accidentally spilled some water on some CDs and a lot of ink washed off.

So I want to get a new marker that will ideally remain dark and clear for a long time, and not rub/wash/whatever off. Is there a particular type of marker I should use?

Edit: “Permanent” seems the obvious answer, but I thought I’d used one in the past. Are there different kinds?
[/QUOTE]

8

[QUOTE=Daylon]
Specifically, use “archival” markers - they’re specially made for CD/DVD with no solvents.
[/QUOTE]
NO solvents? What is the carrier for the pigment then? And what do you base your claim upon? Is there any difference between “archival” markers (whatever they are) and the Sharpies?

9

I just bought some new Memorex CD’s that are black on both sides. Nice looking, but how do I mark them? They provide little stickers, but I am afraid to put stickers on the CD. I just put them on the plastic box and hope I don’t get the CD’s mixed up. Any ideas about how to mark the CD?

10

[QUOTE=robcaro]
I just bought some new Memorex CD’s that are black on both sides. Nice looking, but how do I mark them? They provide little stickers, but I am afraid to put stickers on the CD. I just put them on the plastic box and hope I don’t get the CD’s mixed up. Any ideas about how to mark the CD?
[/QUOTE]

Silver Sharpies

11

Or white.

12

Yes, there is a difference.

http://www.delkin.com/shop/product.php?productid=155&cat=61&page=1

Sharpies can eventually eat into the surface of the cd/dvd, causing damage if stored long term. I’m a photographer, so when I backup a customer’s images to DVD, I need to be certain that I if need be I can retrieve those images years later.

[QUOTE=Musicat]
NO solvents? What is the carrier for the pigment then? And what do you base your claim upon? Is there any difference between “archival” markers (whatever they are) and the Sharpies?
[/QUOTE]

13

[QUOTE=Daylon]
Sharpies can eventually eat into the surface of the cd/dvd, causing damage if stored long term.
[/QUOTE]

I find that very difficult to believe. The solvents used in standard Sharpie markers are all highly volatile (see the Sharpie marker MSDS). I can see CDs possibly being affected, since the optical layer is only protected by a thin lacquer coating on the label side, but DVDs have the optical layer sandwiched between two half-thickness polycarbonate discs. No way is the residue from a sharpie going to eat through that enough to cause any damage, even if what you say is true.

14

Are Avery labels OK?

15

If you really want permanent markings on your media, and have a lot of time on your hands, switch to a Lightscribe burner which uses friggin’ lasers to burn your label on to the disc. Honest!

It just takes a long time to complete the burn.

16

[QUOTE=Daylon]
Yes, there is a difference.

http://www.delkin.com/shop/product.php?productid=155&cat=61&page=1

Sharpies can eventually eat into the surface of the cd/dvd, causing damage if stored long term. I’m a photographer, so when I backup a customer’s images to DVD, I need to be certain that I if need be I can retrieve those images years later.
[/QUOTE]
Me too. How long do you expect it to take for that chemical reaction? I have CDs marked with Sharpies about 9 years ago and under a magnifying glass, they don’t look etched at all. Wiping off the pigment with a solvent reveals no discernable etching. So when can I expect that to start? 50 years? I can wait.

Besides, there is a protective polycarbonate layer between the outside and the data layer. Any damage would have to make it all the way thru this layer before the data reading would be affected. My limited knowledge of chemistry suggests that any chemical reaction would decelerate as it went deeper.

I note that the cite/site you gave is trying to sell a particular pen, much higher-priced than ordinary Sharpies. Could it be they are using scare tactics?

Key Lime Guy, I would advise against sticky labels because the stickum may not last long, the label may peel off when spun, and your reader may become a mess that’s hard to clean. If you can get some archival stickum, that might OK. And full-size disc labels, if carefully applied, would be less prone to peeling off than a small, address-sized label.

If you must use sticky labels, I have noticed (on paper products) that if you “seal” all the edges with adequate pressure, preventing air from getting to the adhesive, they tend to adhere better. If you slap a label on loosely, after a few days or weeks, the exposed adhesive dries up and nothing you can do will make it stick again.

There are printers designed to print directly on the disc, and this may be the best of all if you can justify the cost or need quantity. I believe there are two kinds of printing processes used (thermal and inkjet), but each requires a specific top coating on the CD, which may increase your per-unit cost.

17

[QUOTE=Musicat]
Besides, there is a protective polycarbonate layer between the outside and the data layer.
[/QUOTE]

Not on most CDs, as I noted above. The CD’s data layer is only protected by a thin layer of lacquer, which is relatively easy to damage–hence the advice not to write on them with ballpoint pen. Some CD’s may also have additional layers for scratch-resistance, printability, etc.

18

[QUOTE=Musicat]
Key Lime Guy, I would advise against sticky labels because the stickum may not last long, the label may peel off when spun, and your reader may become a mess that’s hard to clean. If you can get some archival stickum, that might OK. And full-size disc labels, if carefully applied, would be less prone to peeling off than a small, address-sized label.
[/QUOTE]
I applied full-sized paper labels to CDs eight or nine years ago (brand name materials, burnished them down very well, no air bubbles) and now the adhesive is starting to fail on some of them. Of course, it’s only failing on parts of the surface so I can’t peel them off completely. I’ve even tried using Bestine (rubber cement solvent) but it’s a laborious process and I finally gave up. So if you think you might still want to watch or listen to those discs a few years from now, I’d advise against adhesive labels.

19

[QUOTE=randwill]
I’ve even tried using Bestine (rubber cement solvent) but it’s a laborious process and I finally gave up.
[/QUOTE]

Try WD-40. Spray it on liberally and let it soak in for an hour or so. After that, it should be easy to scrape the label off with a fingernail or something. It won’t damage the protective lacquer layer, but it might remove or smudge any printing underneath the label. When you’re done done, clean up the disk with rubbing alcohol–70% isopropyl is fine, 90% is better.

20

[QUOTE=Q.E.D.]
Not on most CDs, as I noted above. The CD’s data layer is only protected by a thin layer of lacquer…
[/quote]
I stand corrected, at least for CDs. But your post mentioned the construction of DVDs as different.

I have been unable to find an online reference as to the thickness of the lacquer protective layer on CDs except this one, which says

…which isn’t much help. Other sources say “lacquer” rather than plastic.

I wonder if there might be a difference between commercially pressed discs and home-burned ones. I think the commercial ones are pressed with the polycarbinate layer first, then the reflective layer (which would be deposited on the back side of the data-reading area), then the protective layer, then a label or label layer. But blanks for burning could be made differently – I don’t know, but this could affect the thickness or composition of some layers.