Better yet turn the bike over and find and copy the serial number down. The serial number will be on the bottom of the bottom bracket (that is where the pedals go through the frame)
If the cops find a bike they suspect is stolen they are not going to take it apart looking for a business card. They will however enter the serial number in the database to see if has been reported stolen.
Is it true that weight-of-bike + weight-of-lock-and-chain equals a constant? 
Does it all equal out when you have to get a bigger lock for the more expensive (lighter) bike?
Seriously, I think I’m going to get one of those for my generator (in the back of my truck). Thanks for the link.
For maintenance tips, google “sheldon brown” + problem you are trying to solve. The man was prolific and spot-on with his writing. The world is a sadder place for his passing. Reading his stuff taught me the error of some of my ways, and there is now nothing I won’t tackle. I’m even getting ready to break out the torch and modify the frame on one of my bikes.
Most of your regular maintenance items are a year or more off, with a couple of exceptions: First off, new cables stretch a bit, so the shifting might get wonky after you ride a few weeks. This is normal, and just a half turn or so on the adjuster sleeves will put it right. (see Sheldon) You might need to do the same with your brakes, also the pads seat in to the rims, and that might need a little adjusting. Look and be sure that the brake pads are completely on the rims when you squeeze the levers. Finally, the one thing that is no fun at all:
The one thing that is a real PITA on most American bikes is the chain. Americans eschew chain cases and fenders, so the chain picks up lots of grit. You need to clean and lube your chain regularly and check it for wear (usually mis-called “stretch”). If you let the wear progress too far it causes wear on the sprockets, and they get a bit pricy to replace. You can check for chain wear with a good eye and a ruler, (see sheldon) or they make a special gauge that is a bit simpler.
They make gizmos to do it on the bike, but they make a mess on the rear rim, which is your braking surface. Much better to remove the chain from the bike for immersion in solvent, sling around (outdoors) then hang up to dry, (or bake in just-warm oven) put into zip-lock bag and knead with lube. What chain lube…weeeeel now that is a can of worms that,second to porn of course, probably accounts for a fair amount internet bandwidth. The things that do the best job of lubricating (various oils) also do an excellent job of collecting grit. The things that don’t collect much if any grit don’t lubricate very well (various waxes mostly). There are things that use various polymers, and mixtures of oils and waxes… pick your poison and see how it works out for you. Monitor for chain wear, and buy a new chain at the wear limit (see Sheldon)Don’t run the chain without SOME sort of lube, and if you hear it making squeaking noises, the lube isn’t doing you any good.
To remove the chain the first time you will need a chain-breaker tool, a basic one costs maybe $3, and the top-of-the line one maybe $20-30. Install a SRAM power link when you put the chain back on, and you won’t use the chain breaker again. Power links come in several sizes depending on how many gears are on the rear wheel. (now called the cassette). For a start, get the Park Tool toothbrush looking thing to clean the cassette. You will eventually want the special wrench to remove the cassette from the rear wheel for cleaning, replacement, etc…but that can wait.
My previous replys were typed on my phone…this one needed a real keyboard, sorry for the delay.
I used to do that, but I don’t think it’s worth the trouble. Nowadays I just lubricate the chain liberally, wipe it with a rag, and repeat a couple of times. This is easy enough to do once a week, and gets the chain pretty clean.
Also, chain manufacturers recommend against using a degreaser to clean the chain. (Probably because it’s very difficult to clean it off completely.) A solvent like kerosene may be OK, but it’s harmful to the environment.