Bikes: theft, locks (esp Kryptonite), bike trailers, other access & maint

In My Humble Opinion
1

I have my awesome bike! I love it. I’m in heaven. (It’s this. It’s fantastic. Extraordinarily comfortable, especially with this seat.)

BIKE THEFT
This bike represents a major investment for me. I am committed to protecting it from everything, with theft at the top of the list.

I don’t know why I’m so incredibly paranoid about it, but I absolutely am. (It probably doesn’t help that a young male friend of mine had his bike stolen from inside a liquor store where he had brought it, parked it, and walked a few feet away from. Some incredibly bold thief just grabbed it right in front of him. So I’m afraid to take my hands off it without locking it, and what I’d really like to do is put about 100 pounds of locks on every single part of it.)

I know that bike theft is often a crime of opportunity and the first step is making sure your bike is locked and an uninviting target, obviously.

But all else being equal, what other things should I consider when locking my bike up and leaving it out of my sight, such as:

[ul]
[li]Safer to try and “hide” it out of tempting sight, or better to put it right where there are plenty of people and light and it can’t be missed? In other words, just how bold are bike thieves? My bike is pretty noticeable because it’s long and the seat is so ginormous, it attracts attention. It’s hard to know if its unusual lines and look make it less or more tempting to a bike thief.[/li]
[li]Do bike thieves usually steal to keep, steal to sell, or steal to break down? I’m referring to the sort of thieves that actually go out with the intention of stealing bikes, carrying the badass bolt cutters necessary to cut locks. Again, my bike is unusual (they aren’t even sold in Los Angeles at all, mine was brought down from Northern Cal.)[/li]
[li]What other considerations are there in locking up one’s bike in public and leaving it out of your sight for a long period of time?[/li]
[li]Also, would it be an added deterrent when I have the trailer attached?[/li][/ul]
LOCKS:
I already have this lock. But it’s not the highest rated so I’m getting another. I’d love to go for the Kryptonite New York top-of-the-line chains, but they run over $100. MSRP on one of them is over $200. Maybe later. So for the moment I’m looking to spend around $50-60 to get a Kryptonite lock that carries the anti-lock protection, which means a lock rated 8 or above. (Kryptonite will replace your bike up to various amounts if it is stolen while locked with their locks.) I need to measure the length I need, my bike with both wheels aligned is bulkier than many others - I assume I need something on the long end.

Have any Dopers used these locks? Have they failed? Stood up spectacularly? Did you have a bike stolen and collect on the anti-theft?

What’s the feeling about chain vs. U-Lock?

Also: any ideas on the point of the lock sets that include the thin cables? That lock has a high rating, too, and I can’t figure out how it is supposed to work.

This is an issue because I’m trying to figure out some way to protect my seat. (Even though it will only fit a Day 6 bike, but a thief won’t know that until it’s too late) It’s removable via quick-release, which I can replace with bolts and I shall, but even then if someone really wanted it taking out the bolts is not that big. So I’m trying to work out some way to lock it and all I can think of is a U-lock to a stationary object and I’m not sure I’ll be able to do that while locking the bike as a whole, so some clever way of using a good cable wrapped tightly around the stem so that even if it was removed from the bike it couldn’t be taken… I will probably have to experiment.

BIKE TRAILERS:

I am definitely getting one. The question is which? They are pricey and of course I’d like to keep that to a minimum. the purpose will be primarily to carry groceries and the like, but I also want it to be designed in such a way that I can carry my dog in it. There are trailers designed specifically for dogs, but that doesn’t seem to be entirely necessary, I’m sure I could employ a child trailer for the same purpose, depending on how it’s designed.

The only trailers I’ve seen in person were Schwinn, and I wasn’t impressed. I disliked the fact that the floor of the trailer wasn’t really solid and I can’t understand why it would be designed like that.

It’s very frustrating to shop for bike trailers because most of the information is limited to pictures of the outside, maybe from a couple of angles. I want to see the layout of the inside and here in LA I am having a real problem finding retailers that carry them so I can see for myself how they are made. Grr.

So what is your experience with child trailers, pet trailers, or other trailers that might be adapted to carry a dog? Do you know of any which are built with nice solid bottoms? Do you know of any place in LA where there is a selection on display?

OTHER BAGS, BASKETS and WAYS TO CARRY STUFF
The trailer is only for major shopping and cargo needs, obviously. I want to have “everyday” bags or baskets to carry stuff in. I dont’ care about looks, I’m all about utility, cost, and bulk. Any suggestions for racks & baskets?

MAINTENANCE & CARE
I want to learn basic maintenance, starting with flat-fixing, of course. What other things should I learn to make me a safe and self-sufficient cyclist? What tools are good to have?

Other accessories I plan to add for safety and utility:
Mirror
reflectors
headlight
rearlight
Alarm? (I fear this will be worse than a car alarm for going off inappropriately, though)

And…?
I WELCOME ANYTHING YOU WANT TO ADD
about equipment, use, exercise, saftey, anything. I’m totally into it and I want to be educated, safe, knowledgable.

2

I lost a bike once when I lost the key to the lock…I’d definitely suggest something with a combination instead, lol. Damn hacksaws may work great for thieves but didn’t for me. >.<

3

U-Locks are generally better than cable locks, though I find cable locks more convenient. (That cable is so you can secure your wheels and extra gear, instead of just the frame, or the frame+wheel, which is what a u-lock can do)

Seats can be secured to your bike lock via a seat lock cable, usually a 5mm dealy that counters the ease of the quick-release. (I’m thinking of getting one myself for my one bike with the suspension seat-post.)

For maintenance (and more recommendations), check out your local cycling community. The one near my house costs ~20$/year for the use of all the tools (along with people who know how to use them), and discounts on bike parts.

4

I use a lock similar to this. However, the main perps of bike theft here are the local tweakers, not pros. Plus, a handcycle sticks out like a sore thumb.
Use two locks, preferably two small u-locks that you can’t get a jack into.

For lights I use-
Headlight:: Cygolight 250 3 light levels+1 flashing mode, visible in direct sunlight.
The company recently brought out a 350 lumen model for the same price.
Taillights: 3 Radbot 1000-two on the bike, 1 on the helmet.

My trailer: Cargo Croozer.. Plastic bottom, fabric sides, it’s been holding up well to frequent overloading. When at or over weight limit there’s a slight surging with each pedal stoke though that might be blamed on the single power stroke per pedal revolution on the handcycle.
Not for pet use.

Mirror: Mirrycle flat bar-end
Some people prefer helmet/eyeglass mounted mirrors.

Do you have a pump, patch kit and tubes and do you know how to use them?

Also-hi-viz jersey, vest for night, pepper spray.

5

I use a U lock to attach the frame to something solid and the a cable lock to attach the wheels to the frame so someone can’t flick the quick releases and steal them. This means I have to carry a bit of weight in locks around with me but I don’t really have any other option.

Lock your bike up in the most public place you can. Theives love privacy and will (well not always) be put off by people being around so never try to hide your bike away. The best locks need powertools to break them and can’t be broken without creating attention.

And keep a spare key somewhere safe. :slight_smile:

6

For the trailer, watch Craig’s list and garage sales. Kids outgrow them and they go pretty cheap. Watch out for uv damage to fabric, indicating it was stored outside.

7

Has anybody pulled one of those small trailers behind their bike? How difficult is it? I’ve been eyeing some of them on ebay, because I want to start taking my dog with me on some longer* trips. There are some rails-to-trails trips I’d like to make here and some of the interesting stuff is just too far for my little dog to manage. The trailers sound like a great solution, but I was worried about the additional load on me (I’m not in a great hurry, but I’m not in great shape either). I’ve also been considering bringing a small tent, backpacking stove, etc. and making an overnight journey. Has anyone here ever done this?

*longer is a relative term of course. I’m only talking about 4 or 5 miles, but that’s way too much for a small dog.

8

I regularly pull a trailer with my handcycle. 25 lbs empty plus a 30-40 lb. load for eight miles. Slower but very doable.
Handling will depend on the type of hitch and connector. Mine uses a heavy spring as part of the hitch and I get a slight surging with heavy loads. Others use a sort of U-joint.

9

Figuring out the best way to lock you bike is a thorny problem, you need to triangulate a few factors. How much is your bike worth relative to the escalating cost of a more secure lock? Do you want to cycle your bike carrying a heavy lock? That sort of thing.

Nowadays, I’m of the opinion that all a lock does is stop children and drunk people from pedalling off on your bike. Even very good locks. Anyone vaguely committed to theft can break any lock with cheap tools - a modern angle grinder can be picked up at a hardware store for £30 that will run on a cheap battery. Add a cutting disk for 50p and it will take care of your typical bike lock in about 20 seconds. So clearly the most important way of looking after your bike is going to be where / if you choose to leave it in public.

I own several bikes and handle this issue by first of all having them all insured, away from home, on my house insurance policy. There is an insurer in the UK who offers this without it being a particularly inflated premium - maybe there is something like this in the US on your home policy?
Next, I commute to work on a decent, but nothing special, cross bike that I lock up in a bike shed with swipe card access. The shed adds most of the security; if it’s stolen I’m not going to be heart-broken and it is insured in any case. I’m still cautious about leaving it locked in public - I’d ride to the shops on it but would never leave it locked up for longer than 20 mins or so.

I own two good mountain bikes that have never seen a lock - wouldn’t consider ever leaving them locked in a public place.

10

I pull a re-purposed Burley kid trailer all the time. I use it for taking the pooch to the off-leash park and for fetching groceries. Also on rare occasions when I need to haul something heavy or bulky to or from work. (I normally commute on my bike)

It is pretty easy on the level and without a headwind. There is no getting around the added weight when climbing hills, and the aerodynamic drag is noticeable. But if you have decent gearing it just means the trip takes a few minutes longer. If you are using it to fetch groceries like I do, one tip is to choose a store uphill from where you live, that way you are only pulling an empty trailer up the hill…though not really required, as the trip home from Costco and Trader Joe’s are both uphill for me, and I regularly haul sizable loads from those places.

One issue is supporting the bike while attaching and loading the trailer. Kickstands really don’t provide enough stability. I have a big tree at home that works well for leaning the bike against, and I leave it locked to a post or rack at the store until after the trailer is all ready to go. Also make sure your bike has two good functional brakes before you even think about pulling a trailer.

If you google “bike forums”, there is a utility biking sub-forum where you can get lots of experienced opinions. The Kevbo there is the same one as here.

11

I hope this isn’t too much of a hijack but I was going to start a thread about riding in the winter. Specifically I want to know about clothing. I want something that will keep me warm but not too warm. I don’t want to be soaked with sweat and then freeze my ass off because I need to unzip my coat because I need to cool down.

12

I think this depends on what sort of cycling you are doing in winter. I commute in London so don’t wear hardened cycling gear for very sweaty workouts (such as thin tights) but I do need to guard against wet and cold without getting too sweaty. My standard gear is:

some kind of thinnish but warm top such as these
a hi-visibility cycling jacket which is actually very effective against wet and cold, likethis. In urban areas, a hi-viz jacket is very important in winter, IMO.
warm winter cycling trousers that provide some weater resistance, such as these
plus, most importantly, waterproof/windproofgloves.
I have been considering some kind of warm headband to go under my helmet to keep my ears warm.

13

Locks? Go with a good U-lock. Lock the frame + the rear wheel to something solid. I would not sweat locking the front wheel or seat personally.
Lights? Any good bike shop can set you up. I have 2 front lights one flashing on my handlebars the other on my helmet. For the rear I have one LED flasher and 2 in bar ends.

14

To add to SanVito’s post - Are you going to be wearing your normal every day clothes, with winter gear on top, or are you thinking of a full monty cycling outfit (lycra shorts / leg warmers / cycling layers etc).

The latter is more comfortable for riding (markedly so in winter), but obv has the requirement of a changing facility of some sort if you’re talking about a commute. Worth knowing that cycling is a tough sport to stay dry in bad weather full stop - any hard effort and you start to get wet from the inside. No fabric is truly breathable for cycling, but some are not bad and will work for light commuting style efforts.
Mudguards on the bike are also a massive help in keeping the road spray off you in wet weather.

A good garment for riding and regulating body temperature is a gilet - not sure if it is called that in the US - an armless outer shell. They’re very windproof and tend to be lightly waterproof. Can be lined with a thermal down layer. Keep your core warm and let you radiate out the arms. If it’s pishing down you’ll need a jacket, but if it’s just your typical cold, overcast winter day they work well.

15

The most important thing is to wear multiple layers of clothing, so you can adjust your clothing quickly - i.e. peeling off layers as you warm up, or adding layers when it gets colder. You’re not going to find one coat that will work all winter, no matter how high-tech it is. Try to come up with a combination of fleece jacket, thin coat, outer coat, etc. that you can mix and match as needed.

A balaclava is nice for very cold days.

16

I’ve read recently about the layers thing, which most of us are familiar with. But the question is…why? Interestingly, it’s not really the clothing itself that keeps your warm, it’s all about trapping and releasing the AIR around your body, which is what keeps you warm. Innersting.

I also just read something else that I did not know intellectually but which I follow instinctively: the biggest mistake people make is allowing themselves to get hot and sweaty under their clothes in the cold during exertion. They take off the layers and freeze quicker or their clothes get wet with sweat… the rule is to stay cool and dry. I do this anyway; being overweight I heat up very quickly and easily when I exert myself in the slightest way, and I hate that. So I automatically adjust my clothing to stay cool-to-cold, rather than toasty warm.

Not that it’s that big a deal, I live in Los Angeles- but in fact the last couple of weeks have seen some damn chilly evenings and that’s when I’ve done most of my cycling. When I am headed down, it’s freaking cold as hell and I quickly learned I needed to have something to wear during those parts of my ride, but any kind of grade I warm up almost instantly.

It just occurred to me, referring to my weight, that maybe that’s part of the reason people seem to pay an unusual amount of attention to me when I’m biking… I guess you don’t see that many 250 pound middle aged women cycling around town. I know I don’t… every single other person I have seen on a bike since I’ve been cycling has been skinny to mildly chubby. Hm.

Didn’t even cross my mind how unusual I actually am. Good for me, then…

17

Sorry I didn’t get back sooner. I’ll be commuting to to work in New England 45 minutes each way in street clothes. My mistake in the past was getting too warm and sweating a lot. I was bundling up too much and sometimes I would sweat all the way through my outer jacket.

Thanks for the advice.

18

I think V-necks with zippers are very helpful. Wearing two or three layers of them allows a nice range of on-the-fly adjustment. A fair amount of heat can be lost from the neck.

19

Oooh… my mofo chain arrived! And it is a mofo… so now I have that AND a cable and I also ordered a U-lock. Everything I’m reading says having different kinds helps because most thieves only carry one kind of tool.

Ain’t nobody gettin’ their hands on my bike unless they show up with power tools…

20

You might want to fold up a business card with your name and phone number on it and drop it down the seat tube and replace the seat. Also, register it with your local police department. Is there any way you could unobtrusively attach a chip to your bike, such as with pets?