Bulb burned out? Buy a new fixture!

A guy junks his nearly-new Rolls-Royce and buys another one. When asked why, he says ‘The ashtray was full!’

The kitchen light was a dome ceiling fixture, similar (in concept) to this one. Note that there is no ‘tit’ on the bottom, which can be unscrewed so that the dome can be removed. Instead, like the one in the link, one turns the dome. Basically, the dome has ‘ears’ that engage protrusions on the bezel. I’m sure you can think of any number of things that have similar methods of attachment.
(What follows is long and terribly mundane.)

But there was a problem: The glass dome would not turn. It was as if it had been glued to the bezel. (And it probably was, being in the kitchen.) I’ve tried many times over the years to remove it, to no avail. But hey, as long as it lights up when I flip the switch there’s no problem. Yesterday, it didn’t come on. I tried once again to remove it, spraying the circumference with WD40 and tapping it with a mallet. The tapping actually made it work – for a little while. With no way to remove the dome (the lubricant didn’t work) we were left with no alternative. We would have to break the dome.

I was out running errands when the SO called to tell me the light was no longer coming on. We’d already decided to take the drastic action, and I was going to look at fixtures. I went to Home Depot, and their selection of similar fixtures was disappointing. I’d purchased dome lights there years ago, which had the knob on the bottom instead of the turn-the-dome system. I just didn’t care much for their current offerings. I called the SO, and she said I should look at Lowe’s. (I’m still a little miffed that Lowe’s caved to Christian zealots who pressured them to pull their support of a television show about Muslim-Americans.) Lowe’s had the style we wanted, but something looked fishy. Why do they come with bulbs? Nobody includes bulbs. Because the bulbs were not screw-base. They were CFLs with a couple of pins on the bottom. I do not want to have to buy special bulbs! We have plenty of screw-base CFLs, and we even have a bunch of leftover incandescent bulbs in case of emergency. Lowe’s did not have any dome fixtures that did not use those bulbs, unless I wanted to get something in a more rustic style – which I didn’t. Back to Home Depot. (My running around included passing by the exit for Lowe’s, and at least I finally found out where the Panda Express is.)

I selected a fixture from Home Depot. In our earlier conversation, the SO said she would never buy a lighting fixture unless she opened it and inspected it first. Taking her advice, I did. The fixture I selected used a fluorescent ring. :rolleyes: It’s 25 miles to town, and I don’t want to make a 50-mile trip when it fails when we have all of those screw-base CFLs in the house. I selected a different fixture. It’s not exactly what I was looking for, but it did have the knob and it was pretty close in style to the old fixture.

You all know how to change a ceiling fixture, right? It’s easy. Five minute’s work. We’ve put up two new ceiling fixtures just in the last year. It started well. I got to the point where you put in the two screws that fit into the key slots on the fixture. I could not get the heads through the holes! I tried removing the screws and inserting them through the holes with the intention of screwing them in. Nope. Didn’t work. I’d noticed that the old fixture had nuts where the screw heads were supposed to be. So I took everything apart and tried inserting the screws upside-down, and using the nuts from the old screws to hold the fixture up. That didn’t work. I’ve mentioned that this house is old, and things are not exactly standard. In the kitchen, there’s a half-inch of drywall on top of (or rather, the bottom) of the original ceiling. The fixture box was level with the original ceiling. The makers of the new fixture did not take into account non-standard installations, and the screws were simply too short. So I took the fixture off again (I lost count of how many times I’d put on and taken off the mount and connected and disconnected the wiring) and did not screw the mounting plate in all the way so that it was level with the drywall ceiling. Of course it was too floppy to get the screws through the keyholes.

I was exasperated. I was ready to just call the handyman and pay him twenty bucks to put it up for me. This is supposed to be a five-minute job, and the non-standard ceiling and the lack of foresight by the fixture manufacturer confounded me. The SO wouldn’t let me do that. We went to the small hardware store a few miles away and selected a pair of longer screws that seemed to be the same size as the one we brought with us. After a quick shopping stop elsewhere, it was home again to finish the job. The new screws didn’t screw in. :smack: I went back to the hardware store. This time I removed the mounting plate from the electrical box and took it with me. The new screws were 8-32, I think. They were too big. The kid at the hardware store tried 6-32. Too small. He tried metric screws. No joy. The mounting plate was apparently threaded for some bizarre size only used in China. The only screws that would remotely fit (and were long enough) were the ones that came with drywall toggles. They’re loose, but they won’t pull out. I bought a universal mounting plate just to be on the safe side.

Home again, I put in the new screws (less the toggle bits) and wired everything up again. The SO had to get on the stool to maneuver them into the keyholes, since her hands are smaller than mine. Together, we were almost done! Only when I tried to tighten the screws, they went through the slots. (As I said, they were a little loose; so they were too unstable to simply put the fixture on and twist.) Now this five-minute job is making me angry. The SO came off the stool and she was able to finesse the screws such that they held the fixture. Eventually I’ll need to get some washers so that the heads will not go through the slots.

This was nuts. I’ve changed fixtures before, and it takes no time at all. Having so much trouble with a simple job like this really made me feel like an idiot. And tossing a perfectly good fixture simply because the dome wouldn’t turn no matter how or what we tried is irksome.

Well, it’s up. The old fixture had two sockets, of which only one was occupied. The SO complained there was not enough light in the kitchen. The new fixture has three sockets, and they are filled with 60w compact fluorescent bulbs. It’s so bright in the kitchen that the SO said we should install a dimmer switch. That ain’t gonna happen. I don’t want to have to buy special dimmable CFL bulbs; and we only have the overhead light on when we’re cooking, which is when we want lots of light. All is well, except that I want to get those washers for the screws. But damn! that was a long ‘five-minute job’!

Connect the wires and glue it to the ceiling with Liquid Nails. Then it’ll be the next person’s problem when he tries to change the fixture and tears the drywall down while he’s hanging from it going “WTF did that guy do to this thing?” :smiley:

I had that experience when pulling the carpet from the middle bedroom. It was nailed down, with the nails about every two inches in rows set about six inches apart. Demolishing the closet in that bedroom was interesting as well.

Hey, at least you found out where the Panda Express is :smiley:

I had to replace, one by one, every ceiling fixture in our business. The contractor had used the ones with the ring flourescent bulbs. You cannot change the particular bulbs for these fixtures without breaking them! There is a plastic sleeve with four prongs which cannot take even the slightest tortion. That wouldn’t be a problem except that it takes a remarkable amount of force to get the prongs into their holes. I gave up after ruining five bulbs in a row.

Now they are all two or three-bulb screw in fixtures, and I have a huge stack of unuseable old fixtures in the new fixture boxes because She-who-must-not-be-named can’t throw anything out. Anybody want them?

I’ve been here nine years, and haven’t been to a Panda Express since I left L.A. I wanted to go to the one in town once, a few years ago, but couldn’t find it. (I just saw the sign on the freeway saying there was one.) Who knows when the next urge will hit?

life can be a pain in the butt. just to add to that:

there are things called extender rings that go on fixture boxes, you will find in the electrical section. they are used when you add material (ceiling or wall) so that the mounting distance is the same distance. there are also required for fire/electrical safety and needed by code.

The electricians best friend.

Great story, and I know that project exactly. I upgraded my porch light to one that comes on after dusk but the switch would not turn the light on. Finally… it came on at dusk.

I have lost track of how many times I’ve been annoyed when changing fixtures. If the screws aren’t too short, they’re spaced wrong or the screws packed with the fixture are #6 but the holes in the box are #8, or the box was mounted the wrong direction. (That’s more a problem with “bar” fixtures such as for over bathroom sinks.)

More than once, my new best friend was a universal fixture strap with a multitude of holes and curved slots to cure all sorts of ills.

[Crusty the Clown] My house is dirty. Buy me a new one! [/Crusty the Clown]

Amen and amen! Preach it brother!

We have a rule in our family. You never EVER say “it’ll only take a few minutes”. :smiley:

To play devils advocate, assuming the potential fixture has real ballasts instead of that GU24 socket that’s just to make sure you don’t use regular bulbs instead of self-ballasted CFLs, there are a lot of advantages to that setup.

  1. The ballasts can be a lot higher quality since they’re not designed for one-time use in a bulb that retails for a dollar or two, so the lights will likely last a long time.
  2. The fixture is designed for those bulbs, and vise versa. It may give more light and look better because the fixture was deesigned for the shape and light dispersion of those bulbs, and the bulbs and ballasts are designed to take whatever heat builds up in the fixture.

But yeah, I hear you about stocking lots of bulbs. I got rid of a kitchen fixture because it was ugly (exposed tubes) and I got tired of bying two different types of circuline flourescents. When I ordered it they promised it could use the 40 watt T12 lamps I have a lifetime supply of, but when I got it the sticker said it could only use the 34 watt T8 lamps so I’m still stuck buying special bulbs unless I want to replace the ballast. Just for kicks I decided to make a list of all the bulbs I use:
300 watt halogen
75 watt flood
70 watt high pressure sodium
65 watt flood
60 watt halogen
53 watt halogen
43 watt halogen
40 watt candelabra (small base)
40 watt candelabra (large base)
40 watt appliance
40 watt T12 fluorescent
40 watt mini-flood
34 watt T8 fluorescent
28 watt halogen
24 watt T8 fluorescent
20 watt halogen MR16
18 watt landscape
15 watt mini-flood
10 watt appliance
7 watt nightlight

This after I’ve made an effort over the years to reduce the number of bulb types I use, and before counting all sorts of bulbs for holiday decorations. In practice I’ve found mixing brands for mini christmas lights doesn’t work, so I have one bulb for each color of each brand of lights.

We’ve found that every project takes twice as long as expected (sometimes 10x as long) and costs twice what we expected.
We didall of the remodeling ourselves. Now, we hire a guy. Maybe my time isn’t worth much, but, my sanity is.

I think I brought the incandescent bulbs up from L.A. with me. IIRC I bought an ‘economy size’ box or two because they were cheap. Back then, CFLs were somewhat expensive and they didn’t last very long. Nowadays CLFs are cheap ($5 for four), last longer, and illuminate immediately. Now I’m stuck with the incandescents.

A funny thing: The SO has a little bedside lamp whose bulb burned out. She asked if I had any mini-base bulbs. I did have a couple of flame-shaped, clear mini-base bulbs in an open pack. Why? I don’t know. The last lamp I can remember having that kind of bulb was dad’s chandelier-style fixture. I’ve no idea why I had these bulbs. Previously, the bulb in the new oven lasted one month. It ticked me off. But I discovered I had a couple of oven lamps in the drawer. After finding the mini-base bulbs, the SO laughed at me that anything she asked for, I probably had.

My sanity was definitely taking damage. As I said, replacing a fixture is something a moron can do in minutes, like changing an outlet or a light switch. I don’t consider myself a moron, so the 1/2" inset resulting in too-short screws had me very frustrated. I have little enough time as it is, and I hate delays. Sometimes it’s better to part with a few bucks and not have to worry about whatever it is that wants doing.

I have some 40 watt tubular bulbs that fit an oven we got rid of 30 years ago. They work so why throw them away?..

Some of the photoeye sensor lights have a special switch, you can force it on by a rapid ON-OFF-ON cycle.

to clarify this wouldn’t be a physical switch on the light but turning the lamp on, into its manual mode (the lamp stays on regardless of its timer or photo switch), by turning the wall switch controlling the light ON-OFF-ON in a second or two.

Donate them to Habitat for Humanity or other such organization (there is a HfH Re-Store near here that takes stuff like that).

Or don’t - but tell your wife you did but “dang, lost the donation receipt!”.

Actually, replacing a light fixture because it’s become unusable / unchangeable is quite reasonable. We’re debating replacing the light on our family room ceiling fan for this very reason. The light fixture has a dome that you have to align with the housing, press upward, and rotate clockwise to lock in place. So I did that - and it immediately got stuck. Typo Knig try and managed to get it to rotate somewhat - but we don’t know what we’ll do when / if we need to change the bulbs again! I like the dome’s diffusing effect, but it’s a huge pain to change!!