Bulding a workbench, looking for input...

In My Humble Opinion
1

So sometime next week, I’ll be buying wood to build a workbench for my brand new work shop. I want to know what traits you folks value in a work bench.

I’ll be using it for wood working, house hold repair tasks, and the like. I’ll be welding in the same space, but probably not right on the workbench. The workshop is 9’ by 15’. Permanent residents will be a bench vise, mitre saw, drill press, and at some point a bench sander.

My current plan is an L shaped bench. 3/4" plywood top. Premium studs for legs. 28" deep down the shorter wall. 20" deep down the longer wall. Shelf halfway between the floor and surface. Legs at the front, stud screwed right into the wall at the back.

Things I’m not sure of…
Should the top wood be thicker than 3/4"?
What should I finish it with?
Do I need to put “joists” in across the top, or is framing the outside good enough?
What else haven’t I thought of?

2

It helps a lot in small shops if the bench height is the same as your table saw and other freestanding power tools; sooner or later you’re going to have to brace something across more than one platform and it helps if they’re the same height.

Don’t forget the rows of mason jars with the lids nailed to the ceiling that you keep all your odds and ends in.

Got power strips?

Oh, lights. Those are important, too. I hate having to use power tools in my own shadow.

3

The workshop book by Scott Landis should pretty much have everything you haven’t thought of.

3/4 inch plywood is pretty thin for a workbench, and studs don’t really supply as much support as you’d like for heavy duty activities such as planing or chiseling. Plywood also really doesn’t stand up to a pounding. Butcher block or hard maple would give you a surface that would last forever.

If you put 2 x 4 framing at the front of the table, it makes it harder to clamp things to it.

4

I agree that 3/4" plywood is too thin.

Here’s one way to solve that problem.
Another option would be to sandwich two pieces of 3/4" plywood.
That way, you could do your “L” with rectangular pieces: use a square + a rectangle for the bottom layer and then use a rectangle + a square for the top layer.

If you go for the two-layer plywood, make sure you have 2x4s at regular intervals to provide support. Make sure that the plywood top hangs over the edges of the support a few inches to allow clamping. You might wish to put some more attractive wood like oak around the edges (you can use oak strip flooring for this).

I also agree with the person who said to make sure your bench matches your table saw. It is a real help.

Make sure the bench is solid. If it’s attached to something this will help a lot. Mine isn’t, and any time I plane wood, the bench shakes.

Good luck!

5

Forgot something!

Put a thin layer of masonite on top. You can change it easily enough when it gets gruffy, and it looks much nicer than the plywood surface.

6

Yeah, I thought 3/4 inch is thin, but I am doing this on the cheap. I suppose I could dowel and glue two sheets together for extra strength. As for the pounding it needs to take, perhaps I’ll just have to resign myself to replacing it in a few years when there’s more money.

Would an epoxy finish help much with the pounding factor?

7

20" is too shallow. My husband’s bench is 24" (someone gave it to him. He didn’t design it) and he always wishes it was deeper. My bench is 30" deep which is better.

Also, why are you screwing it into the wall instead of giving it 4 legs? What would be the advantage there.

Instead of putting the shelf halfway up, put it about 12" from the ground. You’ll be wanting to prop your foot on it when standing, and use it as a footrest when sitting. Ergonomics are important.

Have you considered the height? Now’s your opportunity to get a workbench that’s high enough for you! Most of the time, workbenches are too low. (the standard kitchen countertop is 36") My bench is 36.75, and I’m only 5’3". That works for me, as I can do “power” stuff while standing, and more precision work while sitting on a stool. I would HIGHLY recommend thinking hard about the height. Before I made my bench, I “tested” higher and lower heights. I took a tape measure with me wherever I went, and when I came upon a likely looking countertop, I mimicked the movements I expected to use. That led me to the conclusion that a height of about 36.5, give or take .5 inch would be ideal.

3/4 inch plywood is insufficient for a woodworking bench top. My bench is NOT used for woodworking, and that’s what I have on mine. If I have to do woodworking, I use my husband’s bench. (That’s where the woodworking tools are, anyway.) Finagle is quite right that hard maple or butcher block is ideal. Problem is that it’s pricey. MDF is a good inexpensive solution, provided it is sufficiently supported. But you have to be so careful not to get it wet. You also should think about whether you are going to use a “sacrificial” bench top. (Where you put on a top layer of something like hardboard, and expect to have to replace it every now and again.)

Are you going to use bench dogs?

Also, what kind of joins are you going to use? Are you going to use those metal framing brackets?

What kind of dust collection system are you using?

Ethilrist’s question about power and lights are really important. The workbench only “works” in conjunction with power, lighting, storage, etc. Are you going to pegboard the walls? Will you use those little plastic drawer organizers?

8

Some other posts snuck in while I was typing my response. minorflat suggestion of the masonite top is the same as my “sacrificial” benchtop surface. Just different ways of saying it.

MrFantsyPants: Since cost is a big factor, I have two major suggestions:

  1. Do a hell of a lot more research before you start the project. Learn what you can and get it right. Based on your questions, I suspect that if you proceed at this point, you will end up with something you’re not going to be happy with.

  2. Make it smaller but sturdier. If you can’t afford to make a huge shop-size bench that is as sturdy as you need, then make a smaller bench specificially for your serious woodworking endeavors. You may even want to buy one. Then you can make do with lighter-duty (cheaper) stuff to use for light activities, storage, etc.

And no, epoxy won’t help with the pounding. The problem is not with marring the surface, but with the fact that the surface will flex. Bad.

Why don’t you go down to your local Mega-Lo-Bookstore. Check out both the books and the magazines. Building good work spaces with limited space and money is a HUGE topic. You’ll find tons of information and ideas. I promise you–if you spend $50 on good books and magazines, it will save you far more than that on this project.

9

One will be 28" deep, that will be the main bench, the other will be 20", secondary bench for long projects.

Mainly for stabilty. The walls are solid, and I don’t want the bench moving as I work on it.

Good point. will do.

Probably, yes. I’d like the option. In which case 3/4 is definitely too thin.

Probably #20x4 biscuits reinforced with framing brackets.

shopvac

Lots of light and power are already in there.

Some pegboards, also some pegboard-like spikes welded to washers and screwed to the wall. As for the little draw organisers, I don’t know. I loath thase things, but we’ll see.

10

I don’t like plywood at all for a work surface. A few cuts and spills and you’re going to start seeing delamination. I agree with the hardwood surface, or use a screwdown surface with softer woods so you can replace damaged portions. Also, make sure you have hurky legs on the thing; 4x4s work pretty well.

11

Okay, so if I use two sheets of MDF to keep costs down, dowel them from below and glue them together to keep metal out of the surface but to keep it rigid. Seal it with varathane? Will anything penetrate MDF to a significant degree?

12

Granted, I’m not woodworking, but 3/4" with joists was sufficient for my general workbench.

If you’re doing something very heavy, consider 2X4s on edge to make a top similar to a butcher block. I’ll also second the masonite cover, especially if you do anything with really tiny parts.

13

I went to a used lumber yard in our area and bought some new solid core doors that I used for my bench top. They were nice and solid and about 20 bucks each. You couldn’t use bench dogs with those. I had a power strip mounted on one of the legs. I also have 20 years of Fine Woodworking Magazines that I can sell ya. :wink:

14

Lots of good suggestions already. Just wanted to weigh in on a couple of points.

I like your thoughts on anchoring the rear supports directly into the wall for added stability. I did the same thing with mine - works great.

I also used 3/4" plywood for the surface - no problems there either. If it gets beat up too bad - it can be replaced. I would add the “joist” underneath for additional support and stabilty. I also recommend using dry wall screws instead of nails when you’re putting it all together.

As for the shelf(s) underneath, I framed one in at floor level which is the same depth as the workbench plus I made a 2nd shelf halfway up which only come out 1/2 of the workbench width. For the bottom shelf I used blandex (seeing as how it was supported completely by stud framework w/“joist”). For the intermediate shelf, I used 3/4" plywood and shelf brackets.

15

What is your location, regionally? Up here in CT, I had no problem getting 1.5" white oak for the top of my woodworking bench. (Been doing this for many years now) It wasn’t expensive, two initial coats cleat poly and I’ve not had a problem at all. I have the Mitre, press, table saw’s as well. Most are Delta on their own platforms…I have a lot of space, I’m in an old barn…

As for your dust collection system…you are going to use a shop vac? As in one of these systems or one of these simple tubes??? Please tell me the first!

16

I am in Ontario, Canada. About an hour north on Niagara falls. I’ve not been able to find anything like what you describe around here. At least not for any reasonable price.

Sorry, just the second. As I said, it’s a tiny workshop running on a tiny budget. At some point in the future I will have a proper workshop, but for now, compromise, compromise, compromise.

17

MFP - it’s late around these parts so excuse me if I’m a little punchy… but you do not have to have a costly system inplace to protect your lungs…A simple shop-vac with a used-PVC-Pipe duct system is not terribly expensive. Essentially, the system is held up with duct tape and a few pipe clamps :slight_smile:

It’s worth the extra work if you are going to be doing some extended work on the weekends… email me and I’ll give you a simple layout of what I have in place… Cost and everything. I just finished a wonderful Old Town 1945 wooden canoe…and it looks great! I’m gifting it to a dear friend… :slight_smile:

18

RE: 3/4" top.

I have built two work benches using two pieces of 1/2" plywood for the top.

Don’t bother. And don’t glue it either. Fix the bottom sheet of 1/2" firmly to your base. Then screw the top piece to the bottom. When the top piece gets too beat up, it is easy to replace. This is a very sturdy set up. Especially if you are doing an ‘L’.

Make sure it is high enough. Most people seem to make them too low.