Car Air Conditioning Question

Factual Questions
21

In the first case, it probably is just a switch. But it sounds like the AC just quit working. Not slowly got warmer until nothing.

While I don’t claim to be an expert. I have worked on AC systems quite a bit. I also chose to be less technical than some of the other experts here. The soap/water works great for large leaks (that’s what I’m looking for first). A whiffer is fine for some leaks but not all. If the AC quit working rapidly it is more than likely a large leak, electrical, or the clutch. That’s why we go to Autozone, to check the clutch. I’ve never had a compresser leak. Except for where the lines bolt on. Another reason to replace all seals.

The biggest problem with using 134 is pressure on the old o-rings. That’s why we change them. I would change the dryer because they are cheap. The filter is in the freon line (excuse me, refrigerant line, I didn’t mean to confuse you into thinking I was working on the radiator)

Why we put dye in the line? To build pressure w/out wasting refrigerant.

Don’t f#*ing patronize me, everything’s always a big deal w/ a mechanic. Need a special tool and shit to change a fuse. It’s not rocket science. If you want to spend $500-$1000 go ahead. I would at least check prices and then decide. So far, all I’ve seen from you is telling people how wrong they are.

Modules? Is that what they are?

sheesh…see if I ever try to help you again. :frowning:

quote: “Then there’s the matter of following EPA regulations about changing the service fittings to the R-134a type. And applying a label stating what type of refrigerant is in the system. And making sure it has a high-pressure cut-out switch, installing one if it doesn’t. Etc.”

In the kit…fittings, labels, etc. (take fitting, screw onto thread, take other fitting, screw onto other thread, take label, peel off back paper and apply label w/ sticky side down).

I NEVERsaid to dump a system full of freon into the atmosphere. Also, I recommended buying a gauge. Some AC shops would be glad to capture your freon, provided they keep it.

22

*Don’t f#ing patronize me, everything’s always a big deal w/ a mechanic. Need a special tool and shit to change a fuse. It’s not rocket science. If you want to spend $500-$1000 go ahead. I would at least check prices and then decide. So far, all I’ve seen from you is telling people how wrong they are…sheesh…see if I ever try to help you again.

I assume this is directed at me. Sorry you feel that way. I’m just trying to help also. Part of that is the not so pleasant task of pointing out when the info is, or might be, wrong.

We don’t seem to have been communicating effectively. Here’s some insight into what I was thinking:

That’s why we go to Autozone, to check the clutch.

I didn’t gather that from reading your post–“If there is NO freon in the system you definitely have a leak, at the very least. If there is no freon in the system you can pull the compressor and have it checked at a parts house.”–which seemed to suggest checking the compressor for a leak. I wasn’t thinking of pulling the compressor to check clutch operation, as that can almost always be done fairly easily with the compressor still on the car.

The filter is in the freon line (excuse me, refrigerant line, I didn’t mean to confuse you into thinking I was working on the radiator)

The filter is in the drier, actually. In the freon line–are you thinking of an orifice tube? It’s not a matter of confusing me. I was concerned about the OP getting confused.

Why we put dye in the line? To build pressure w/out wasting refrigerant.

I’ve seen dye in oil, that obviously won’t build pressure, and in a can mixed with refrigerant, which of course will have pressure. “Put the parts back on the system and fill w/ dye. (NO FREON 134 YET)” seemed to preclude the latter, so I wondered how there could be pressure.

Modules? Is that what they are?

I’m pretty sure he was looking at either “box” fuses or relays. Didn’t seem necessary or practical to pin it down, so I repeated the term the OP used.

In the kit…fittings, labels, etc. (take fitting, screw onto thread, take other fitting, screw onto other thread, take label, peel off back paper and apply label w/ sticky side down).

That’s reassuring. I’ve seen kits that just had refrigerant, o-rings, and a charging hose. And I’ve seen several “conversions” that did not have the proper fittings and labels installed. Colors my perspective.

I NEVERsaid to dump a system full of freon into the atmosphere.

True. I didn’t mean to suggest that you did. Some of my post was for the benefit of the OP rather than criticism of what you said.

I’m sorry we had a bit of a clash here. From my perspective, I was reading your post and thinking “whoo boy, a novice DIY–like someone who’d speak of modules in the fuse box–could really make some missteps trying to follow this.” It’s largely communication–what you meant is probably fine, but what I thought you meant from your post is something else again.

23

Won’t help you, probably, but I had the same problem a month ago.

Only it went in and out. I couldn’t figure the pattern, sometimes it would come on and sometimes not.

But then one time I had accidentally left the control ON after nothing happened. I’m tooling behind a grocery store and hit an unmarked speedbump. Car goes Whump and the A/C starts up - been working ever since.
So, I think that means it was a loose part, probably one of the heavier ones, but could have been a simple wire or ground connection knocked loose.
Sometimes wires will rub against some nearby metal part and wear off the plastic and short on the part. When shifted away, they work fine again, until the next time they settle against the metal part. If you can find a bare spot on the back side of a wire, tape it. Or, just shift all wires around and see if anything changes.

24

Actually the certification is to work on the systems, and purchase refrigerants.

I taught a ton of these certification classes (including one for the South Coast Air Quality Mangement District) back in 1991 in preperation for the rule being implemented.

25

Wow. Who shit in your cornflakes yesterday morning?

GaryT is a very helpful person in most auto related threads, and from all appearances a nice guy. On this board, if someone disagrees withwhat you say and knows what they’re talking about, you’re going to be called on it.

Get used to it.

26

Hey Gary I submitted a long detailed post yesterday in regards to this thread. Apparently the hamster’s shredded it for their cages.

Anyway, the jest of it was that I realize my advice could/should have been more detailed/specific. I was merely attempting to find out if the OP was serious about repairing the AC or just hoping to get lucky.
Yeah I guess I’m lazy, but I wasn’t going to type each step in detail or be too technical.

Man, I’ve been working 14 hour days, 6-7 days/week in this damned heat and the other day I lost a bunch of $$$$ and got a lotta pissed because I couldn’t get the materials I needed to wrap up a job.

So, long to short version= Sorry if I was a little overboard.

I’ll forget about it if you will. :slight_smile:
BTW, The conversion kit I buy comes with several fittings, O-rings, charge tap and hose, pressure caps, labels, “cheap” pressure gauge, detailed instructions w/diagrams…plus some stuff I can’t recall at present. You have to purchase the refrigerant extra.

All told about $50 plus tax. Takes less than an hour. Not quite as cold as freon but still cold enough.

See ya 'round

27

You bet. I have my days where I seem to be edgy, and sometimes I could be gentler in expressing myself. Sorry if I was harsh.