Daughter’s car radio doesn’t work. 1999 Toyota Corolla. Radio does turn on but puts out static only regardless of AM/FM or what channel it’s on. Also the volume is stuck on a loud level, not sure if that’s a clue or not. If you change channels the digital readout does change but static continues. No faint voices or music or anything discernible as “radio sounds,” just loud static. It’s the factory radio, not after market. It’s been this way since she got the car a few years ago. Any ideas as to whether this is a straightforward issue? Some of you had useful input about a previous car issue we had (different car) so hoping someone can solve the radio mystery.
Sounds like a busted head unit. Replace it: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1998-1999-2000-2001-2002-Toyota-Corolla-Radio-Cd-Player-Oem-1170-86120-04090-/221982445990?hash=item33af2f51a6:g:b1YAAOSwK7FWhXvz&vxp=mtr
First of all, is it just a radio? No CD/Cassette/Aux? If it has more sources, posting about whether they work or not would be helpful.
The two most common causes of simple static only on radio are disconnected antenna or fried component at the antenna input. The first is caused by the antenna connector coming lose or a break in the antenna wire. The second is usually caused by static spark to the antenna. E.g., someone slides of the car and brushes against the antenna.
The first can be diagnosed by pulling the radio and swapping in a temp. antenna wire. (Just about any conductor.) If you get a signal now, then it’s a matter of checking if it’s the connector or farther up the line. Replacing an antenna in this is doable but you might find yourself remembering old curses.
If it’s the second, new radio time.
Another possibility is that it’s a “locked” radio, you don’t have the unlock code and it’s another replacement scenario.
If it’s a multi-source unit and it’s all static, then it’s probably something fried from overheating and IARS.
I’ve replaced radios in Corollas of that vintage and it’s no big deal. Look at some videos, order a new one from Amazon or Crutchfield (they’ll tell you if it will fit), also get a wiring harness. If you go for a mech-less unit (no CD, etc.), they are some good name brand ones for very little dough.
I like to solder the harness and slide shrink tubing over the connectors. Just follow the color codes, etc.
It has a cassette player and she’s getting her hands on a cassette tape in order to test it. This seems like useful information, thank you. Regarding installing, I know it may be a very simple process to someone with basic knowledge of such things but for instance I (nor she) know absolutely nothing about soldering or what shrink tubing is. I’ve used youtube videos successfully for some things and so has she, for instance fixing her own broken door handle and a window. Maybe a new radio install if it comes to that would also be doable. I’m passing along this info and we’ll hopefully be able to narrow it down and get the thing functional. Thank you again!
the antenna cable is usually composed of 2 or 3 segments connected together. One is usually inside the dashboard; if the antenna is on the right fender it might be behind the glove box. for a long time the industry used the old Motorola antenna plug/jack, which doesn’t have any kind of firm “latching” system. Antenna cable back-outs and disconnects are/were pretty common.
I have a similar problem, but only regarding the AM band. It’s a radio on a 2006 Chevy HHR, and gets great reception on the FM band. However, AM brings in only static. I’ve had it into “Car Toys” and the Chevy dealer. Car Toys only advice is replace the radio (at many hundreds of dollars). The Chevy place gave me a complete song and dance about “Oh the AM reception is bad around here”, which is complete BS.
Any ideas would be much appreciated.
If your FM is good but you don’t receive AM the cause is often either a disconnected/broken antenna, or a poor ground connection. Either one should be child’s play to fix, although if the bad ground connection is at the rear of the unit, it can be a royal pain to access it to check.
To check whether it’s a bad antenna, just drive a long way from the FM stations. If reception dies quickly after you get out of town, it’s probably the antenna.
Radios with missing or broken antennas still receive some signals. No “radio sounds” and volume not adjustable indicates a problem in the radio guts (or amplifier, if it has a separate one). No way would an antenna problem cause those symptoms.
…with something a lot better than an OEM.
Who knows? Maybe they are trying to keep it vintage.
aftermarket radios have more features, but I’d dispute that they’re “better” (unless you consider “better”=“has more features” )
Even discounting features, they might have more wattage and a non-terrible EQ.
Also, “vintage Corolla”? :dubious:
getting OT, but the vast majority of aftermarket units are no more powerful than the OEM radio. For a long time now everything (OE and aftermarket) has used 4-channel bridge-tied-load (BTL) power amplifier ICs, of which there are dozens on the market from ST, NXP, Toshiba, etc. on a 12 volt DC supply they’re all capable of ~ 8V RMS (16 watts continuous) into a 4 ohm load. You can’t get more out unless you use lower impedance speakers (dangerous because the radio may not be able to dissipate the heat) or if it has an internal boosted power supply. Alpine tried doing that about 10 years ago and dropped it in short order because of heat management problems.
Don’t pour any money into a 99 Corolla. Tell her to live without it, or buy a cheap separate radio and plug it in through the cigarette lighter.
Um, this is a car that be easily maintained and could run for another 10 years. You can get a Pioneer unit w/CD player for ~$50 on Amazon plus another $5 for the wiring harness. And you could go cheaper if you want. No CD player, buy on sale or w/rebate, etc.
The OP seems to suggest not being willing or able to install one. Installation will cost more than buying the item.
You can get a new AM/FM radio that plays MP3 from a usb thumb drive for under $60 including shipping from Crutchfield for that Toyota.
If it won’t play the cassette, just buy something cheap that fits in it.
The peak wattage on non-OEM stereos is certainly better, but you may be right abou RMS, I can’t test. I still maintain that the equalizer settings on many stock stereos is crap, including the E110 Corolla.
BTW OP: I drive a 1999 Corolla as well. I might have a spare stereo if you want, non-OEM with CD. I’d have to find it and test it first, but it worked last I checked.