Actually just look at the tires and read the tire date code:
https://www.tirebuyer.com/education/how-to-determine-the-age-of-your-tires
DH meant we would add the bunks to the trailer, not that we would build the trailer. 
I have found Class A’s with bunkhouse.
I think have two HUGE reservations with trailers: I do all the driving and I hate trailers, and I am concerned about the quality/longevity.
I contrast that with the ability to get a lot more with a trailer for a lot less. I suppose that I will learn to drive a trailer.
It’s not the driving, it’s the backing up. There are lots of articles about hooking up and towing online. Things like tongue weight, sway bars and runaway chains are all important things. To learn how to back up a trailer, find videos online and then find an empty parking lot and practice until you get it right. Some campgrounds have tight spaces, and that’s not where you want to try to learn how to do it.
Adding bunks to the trailer adds weight. Most trailers easily turn into large bedrooms at night, as everything folds down or pops out, etc. An advantage to a trailer is that it is all living space. A 30’ RV includes eight feet or more of driver and engine space, while a 30’ trailer is all living space. Some trailers come with an exterior gas port, hanger bar and gas barbecue to hang on it.
Again, you want to do lots of research before buying any type of camping vehicle. There are lots of RV fora online including Good Sam and others, where people can point you toward what the better brand lines are. After ten years away from the business, I’d just be guessing at this point. Most RV sales people work on commission, so asking their advice is a crap shoot. New trailers, on average, run about $1,000 per foot. I wouldn’t buy a used trailer more than maybe two years old.
What sort of towing vehicle are you using?
Again, thank you (especially Chefguy). You have given me a LOT to think about!
Some trailers & fifth wheels even come with an actual 2nd bedroom, not just a set of bunk beds in hallway.
Yeah, there are endless floor plans out there, some of which are really ingenious. For someone with a low budget there are pop-up trailers, the largest of which can sleep four adults and probably four kids, all in a package about 10 feet long.
I love my popup, and I’ve considered replacing it except I always change my mind because of the fact that it fits into my garage. In my area, RV storage is about $150 per month, and in my township, we’re not allowed to park RV’s (or boats or trailers) for more than 24 hours outside of the home.
It’s long, probably 18 feet when folded, and is a hard-sided variety (the solid walls with glass windows fold in when storing). It will sleep four adults plus two children (when the dining table is made into a bed). Stove, sink, ice chest, heat, AC, water storage, it has everything a camper needs. And because I have to set it up when I arrive on site, it still feels a little bit like rustic, tent camping (which I still enjoy).
The only reason I’d consider anything larger is to have a grey water tank instead of a 5 gallon bucket sitting next to the trailer. By time you add a genny, TV, satdish, automatic hydraulic self leveling, and an Italian leather sofa, I’m not sure you’re really camping anymore.
Those Hi-Lo campers used to be really hard to find on the used market, as nobody ever sold them. Very popular. Used to be rare to see a pop-up pickup camper for sale for the same reason. That, and everybody quit making them. I see they’re now back in production, as a friend of mine has one.
This is very true. The last time I had anything to do with a motorhome, we had it checked out by the dealer before starting a trip. Made it 20 miles before the exhaust system fell off.
My rule of thumb when making a trip in a motor home is to multiply the length of the trip in miles by $5. That will be the cost of the repairs before you make it back home.
I’ve owned and driven motor homes for 20 years without those sorts of problems, although my cousin certainly had serious troubles with his. But then he kept buying RVs that were way past their prime.
I’ve known a few people who retired and lived out of RVs.
My biggest problem with this idea is buying something the price of a house with the depreciation of a car. Then too the cost of driving (at @ 5mpg) and the cost of parking anywhere that has decent hookups. Seems a lot of money to maintain the idea of mobility.
A motor home can technically be considered a second residence for tax purposes, apparently. Somehow people became convinced that putting $200K (or more) into a depreciating asset was a good idea. High end motor homes can saddle you with the equivalent of a 30 year mortgage, and you will never, ever get your money back out of it. As you mentioned, parking an RV in a campground is a minimum of 30-40 bucks a day, more in the privately owned parks. Plus you need a car to get around in. So you end up driving one money pit and towing another one behind you in order to live on the road. It’s not optimal, for sure.
We have a Suburban with a tow package added. I’d have to go pull the specs.
Oddly, I have thousands of miles of experience towing. Trucks and trailers. Backing is the issue as you say. Somewhere in Portland is a coffee stand and a parking hut that can attest to my “skill” at this maneuver - several years ago now. I am finally getting pretty good at it. (I just use a lot of swear words while I’m doing it. Cover your ears kids!)
My husband really likes the Airstreams, so I suspect that’s what we’re going to look at.
Your advice has been very helpful. Thank you!
A Suburban may pull it. Hopefully you have a big V-8 and auto tranny. You could just visit an Airstream dealer (or any RV dealer) and ask them what the maximum weight trailer you can tow would be. Don’t rely on what your owner’s manual says.
There are many people doing this very cheaply, spending only a minute fraction of the $200K mentioned above. Here is a useful forum if you are interested in this approach:
Kind of like Dundee’s take on goanna: “You can eat 'em, but they taste like shit.”