Cloning a hard drive is preferred, if there are no hardware changes to the computer. Use an identical external HD to that what is installed in the computer. Assuming everything else being equal, a cloned hard drive can be swapped with the original in the machine and everything should work as intended.
Backing up a hard drive means copying only those files you believe are essential, i.e., data files. Possibly some configuration and settings files as well. Assuming you already have the operating system files, drivers and software applications existing on CDs, DVDs or other drives, any “restoration” really is a rebuilding of the drive by re-installing everything.
FWIW, I recently purchased new laptops, and after setting up each machine (operating system, drivers, applications), but before using the machines or installing saved data, I cloned the machines using Paragon HD Pro. It performs backups as well. I’ve also used Acronis True Image, and BounceBack.
Have you run the RAM through memtest86? That would be the first things to do if you haven’t already, it isn’t 100% certain the RAM is ok if it passes but it’s not far off.
Secondly, have you tried running a stress application such as Prime95? If the fault is being caused by overheating or some other issue caused by high load then this should bring it to the forefront quickly.
Question: when you boot up with the stripped down version, is it stable? In other words, is it only unstable when you boot up with everything attached?
My guess here would be an issue with the USB driver:
Check BIOS to make sure that all USB settings are correct.
Make sure that BIOS knows that it shouldn’t boot from USB drives.
Update USB drivers from your motherboard manufacturer’s website.
If any of your hardware has jumpers or switches, you may need to check for IRQ conflicts (although I’ve never heard of this for USB devices.)
My guess here is that your computer is trying to boot from your backup drive, or, when everything is plugged in, the disk assignments are incorrect. Your main boot harddrive must be C: at all times. Everything else usually will fluctuate their letter assignment. Also, note that there’s all kinds of memory chips all over the place that the computer thinks is another harddrive (e.g. in your camera, in your phone, etc.)
Besides this, be careful when seating the video card. You usually have to push them in all the way until you hear a “click.”
The minimum interval for crashes is two weeks, and I can’t run without a mouse for two weeks. (If I plug in the mouse, keyboard, monitor, and network cable, it gives me a second beep on startup.)
Can’t be the backup drive. Problem existed before I purchased it.
This is a PC purchased from a reputable online custom PC maker - if their configuration didn’t detect that the RAM isn’t compatible with the motherboard, there’s a deeper issue.
You are wasting far more money and time fiddling with this than the shipping is worth. Chances are 90%+ it’s a motherboard issue. Suck it up, ship it , get it fixed and move on.
Yeah, just ship it back. But assuming that you first reported the issue within the initial 60-day window, be firm that they’re to pay for shipping, because this is just a continuation of that issue. If people tell you “no,” just keep moving up the chain until you reach someone with the power to say “yes.”
Trying that. I think, though, that if I get turned down for shipping cost coverage a third time, I’m going to go ahead and pay for it, and register a complaint via the BBB.
Just an update for the curious : Shipped the PC in last week without the hard drive, after getting inconsistent answers from tech support. finally got hold of a supervisor.
She apologized for the confusion, and offered me a free 1 TB hard drive instead of having me pay for the 500GB model.
Computer was diagnosed and the motherboard replaced, and it’ll be back Monday.
High five–if you’re anything like me, your fingers won’t stop itching 'til you have the box back. And good on the supervisor for going the extra mile to fix what other people screwed up.