I’m looking to get back into photography after a 15-year hiatus. Things have changed since my Nikon F3HP and my Olympus OM system.
I’d like to get some recommendations for sites that will provide me with info that I can use to jumpstart my knowledge of digital cameras and photography. I want to have lots of pixel density - I’m pretty sure about that. Also, I want full exposure control - manual, Ap-pri, shutter-pri, full auto, etc… Not sure if some of the higher-end units I’m reading about (like the new Sony F-828) have adequate optics for serious work, of if I’ll want to go with a multi-lens system. I’m intrigued by the new category of camera called “prosumer” that I’ve seen.
So far, the Sony F-828 that I mentioned above seems to offer a heckuva lot for $1000 (when it comes out). The higher-end, multi-lens digital SLRs I’ve seen are awfully pricey (Nikons, Canons), and I’m not sure if they’ll be obsoleted pretty quickly. The Sony offers 8 mega-pixels which seem like a whole lot.
Anyway, any info appreciated. I mostly need to read a lot, and listen to educated opinions. There are no stores that carry this kind of stuff near here.
As for what you’re looking for - it sounds like you might want to check out either the Nikon D100 ($1400-1700 street) or the Canon D10 ($1500-2100). Full featured DSLR’s plus the Nikon is compatible with all Nikkor lenses ever made (although some metering features are disabled with the older lenses)
The Canon is compatible with all modern Canon lenses.
I’ve used the D10’s on location, and they’re incredible. I’m actually going with the D100 b/c I’ve got a whole complement of Nikkor lenses already.
I like http://www.imaging-resource.com/ - it’s run by just one guy, and features his Comparometer, whereby you can view pictures from one camera right next to pictures from another.
IMHO, the Olympus C5050 is one of the better cameras on the market. I’m looking for something myself, but am kinda leaning for something a bit smaller. (Looks like I’ve got more links to check out now. :))
Not quite correct. I’m looking to step to a DSLR and have been investigating lens issues as I have manual focus Nikons(F3 and F2A) and Nikkor lenses. Pre-AI lenses (pre '77) will actually damage the camera if you attempt to mount them. AI and AI-S manual focus lenses will mount but there will be no in camera metering. Non-cpu autofocus lenses will work but not in some of the specialized metering modes. Nikon extension tubes and bellows are in the same boat as manual focus lenses, one reason I’m hesitant to get a D100. Only a third party, Kenko, makes an extensinon tube that will work with the D100 and provide metering.
There is a repair shop who will actually add a CPU and appropriate electrical contacts to manual focus lenses so they will give normal metering in the D100 at $80 per lens. He said he could convert an extension tube and I want to see if he can do the same with a bellows so I can at least get stop down metering and TTL flash when doing macro work and copying slides.
Another thing to consider is that most DSLRs have a sensor that is smaller than a 35mm film frame. This results in a “crop factor” which means any given lens has a narrower angle of view than it would with a film camera. Nikon’s factor is 1.5 and the Canon 10D’s is 1.6 That means a 50mm Nikkor has the angle of view of a 75mm lens. Terrific if you want telephoto becuse 300mm is now “450mm” with no loss in effective aperture like with a teleconverter but bad for wide angle. If you want the same angle of view as a 24mm lens you’ll need to get 16mm lens. Nikon has a 12-24mm digital only zoom that gives the equivalent view of 18-36mm but it’s well over a thousand dollars.
Other things fall into IMHO territory but don’t get seduced by high pixels counts. This is particualarly true of the Sony which uses a tiny 2/3" (8.8mmx6.6mm) sensor. Smaller sensors universally have more noise than large sensors. It’s not so bad at low ISO values but becomes severe at higher values. ISO 800 on a 2/3" CCD is virtually unusable but ISO 1600 on DSLRs make images with less noise than similar film.
I’m not saying not to get the Sony F282 but know it’s limitations before making the plunge. If that camera interests you look at the Minolta Dimage A1 which has similar specification but adds an anti shake device which allows slower shutter speeds with no loss in image quality. I’ve been shooting a Dimage 7 which has its quirks and good points and the A1 seems to have corrected the serious flaws the D7 had. If I wasn’t planning on getting a DSLR by the end of the year the A1 would probably be my next camera.
Watch for a bloodbath price war coming up to the holiday season as Canon has dropped a neutron bomb by introducing a DSLR body for $900, $1,000 with lens, the digital Rebel. It was just released a week or so ago and will be putting severe price pressure on prosumer cameras and possibly other DSLRs.
The camera does have instant preview and histogram display. You can take a sample shot and display the histogram to see how far off you were. Repeat this a couple of times and you can set the exposure more accurately than with a built-in meter. Not exactly convenient, but it might be practical for certain applications.
Right now, just get a 3 or 4 megapixel model from a major camera maker and enjoy it. You can make 8 x 10’s that are excellent and use it for computer images. The 35 mm bodies with full film size sensors are starting to come out and, in a year or two, will be reasonably priced and let us use 35mm lenses with no focal length change.
A minor correction: Canon’s new 6-megapixel digital SLR is the 10D, not the D10. Their earlier DSLRs were the D30 (3 megapixel) and the D60 (3 megapixel).
Also, it’s possible to get the 10D for well under $1,500. I paid $1,329 from Electric Sam in Louisiana a couple of months ago, and prices continue to fall. In contrast, I paid $2,700 for the D30 in early 2001! (All prices are body only, with no lens.)
Both of these cameras are great, but the 10D corrects a few minor glitches in the D30 (as well as doubling the pixel count).
If you don’t care to spend $1,000+, you should seriously consider buying a used D30 or D60. There are some great buys on eBay. After getting the 10D, I sold my D30 and a flash for only $740, and prices were dropping fast as many D30 owners upgraded to 10Ds.
One thing that comes to mind immediately is the issue of interchangeable lenses. My older systems always were multi-lens systems, and although I’m not sure yet, it’s looking to me like my new system will probably be the same. My assumption is that the best results and flexibility require it. True?
And, that Canon 10D does look nice.
I’m off to assimiliate knowledge and marketing info.
I’ve made this transition as well. If you’re a serious shooter, look into the Fuji S2 body. Pricey, yes, but accepts your Nikon D series lenses, and doesn’t require Nikon’s proprietary digicam software, which, speaking from experience (I am the Master, now), sux.