We live in an old (avocado green shag carpeting era) trailer. Today I confirmed what I had come to suspect, that one of our twin aluminum kitchen sinks has pinholes, causing dishwater to leak into the cat litter box below. (The placement of the litter box somewhat delayed the discovery.) I could use the other sink (where a flashlight test showed no pinholes), but it is of a size only suitable for doll dishes. Now, if we could afford another sink, we wouldn’t have avocado green shag carpeting, so a new replacement sink set is pretty much out of the question. I could try to find a used set from a junked trailer, but that option never pans out because every time I try to replace a worn-out trailer part, I find out everyone else’s also wore out. I checked online for instructions, but terms like welding and blow torch kept being used. There were also assorted epoxies, but I got confused rather quickly.
So, does anyone else have any experience in patching an aluminum sink? I would rather go the epoxy route, but I’m not sure what I would need, and if I could get something for such a small repair. (Evidently a lot of aluminum repair is on siding or boats.)
Much of the rest of the trailer is held together with gorilla tape, and I will try that as a temporary measure, but one of the pinholes puts out a pretty good stream, and that is sure to irritate the cat.
You might try two-part plumber’s epoxy putty; knead the two parts together thoroughly, make sure the surface is clean (sandpaper or scotchbrite pad), then stick a blob of it over the hole from underneath.
I’d use Silicone.
JB weld is strong, but it’s somewhat inflexible, so it might break if you dropped a pot on the patch. 100% Silicone calk is cheap, water-proof, easy to apply, and extremely flexible.
epoxies like JB Weld come in different strengths and setting times. You want one that sets thickly and dries fairly quicky. if it’s too runny it may run off the bottom of the sink. Plumbers putty is ultra thick by it’s nature. I’ve used it to plug a 1" x 8" hole in a cast iron sewer line. When I replaced the pipe 6 months later I was impressed how well it held. I beat the crap out of it and it held up better than the pipe.
If you don’t give a crap how it looks and you just want something easy and cheap that works.
Go to the hardware store. Get a small bolt, **fender **washers that fit it, and the right sized nuts. They may even have rubber washers that are the right size as well to fit under the fender washers. If they dont have rubber washers, use some silicon under the fender washers.
Drill the right sized hole where the pinhole is for the bolt to fit through. Install. Not as pretty as epoxies/glues/jbweld. But pretty much foolproof.
Epoxy isn’t that expensive and if it will hold up on a 250 degree engine block it will hold up in a sink. A pin hole means you only need a small amount of it and it’s going to adhere better than any other product.
Having used JB Weld and other epoxies on refrigerant lines that are under pressure, it is my experience that for a pinhole leak, epoxy is the perfect application.
That’s why I mentioned different versions of the product. The original version was kinda runny. If I still had a little bit of that left I would mix it and dob a little bit around the pin hole and waite for the rest to start setting and then apply it to the area.