Let me throw in my two cents. If you can get a good grip on the filter you should be
able to tighten it adequately w/ your hand, if you have small hands or a large filter and
can get a good two handed grip that should also be sufficient. If you do have to use
the filter wrench you don’t want to go more than a quarter to a third of a turn past the
point where you have snugged it up by hand. After you have replaced the drain plug,
changed the filter and CHECKED THE DIPSTICK, you should start the engine,
make sure the light or gauge indicates sufficient oil press. (couple of seconds) and
then, with the engine idling, get out and look under the vehicle to make sure you have
no leaks. If you buy those portable steel ramps, don’t skimp. I have a friend who was
under a car when one of them collapsed, he wasn’t hurt but it was several hours
before someone discovered him and jacked the car up so he could free himself. This
is also a good time to check all your fluid levels and the operation of all lights, most
people never think about the lights on the rear and I often see cars w/ no taillights or
brake lights
Please take your used oil to a recycling center, rather than dump it down a drain. Used motor oil isn’t good for the environment.
Another way to handle this is to learn how to check you air filter, wipers, etc. to see if they need changing and if they don’t simply learn how to say no when the shop presses you to have them changed.
::: Laughing::: Naw our engineers are just as access imparied as anybody elses. I have just had a few too many cases where the filter was installed too tight and removing it was a cast iron bitch. I agree completly with your assessment that you should follow the filter makers directions to the letter. With a filter tighter is not better as the filter will tighten up as the car is driven.
:smack: Damn I must have been tired last night. yes, yes, yes this is a must. If you look under the car there will not be a leak, if you don’t there will. Its that damn Murphy guy again. The last time I did my own oil change (my daughter’s 240) I went down to a buddy’s shop after work, did the oil change said goodby and dropped it in reverse. I didn’t look under the car. :smack: (It was late I forgot) I got about a block away and my cell rang. My buddy suggested that I return to find out what was causing the trail of oil my car was leaving. 
Turned out I had gotten a defective filter that was leaking from the swedge.
Moral, always look, also always check that drain plug for tighteness a second time.
I like to change the oil myself because I know I’ll do a decent job and use decent oil. Also, it takes quite a time to drain the last few drops* of old oil out of the sump, and most garages haven’t got the time to drain the system completely (even with suction devices), and so you’ll be left with a bit of the old oil mixed with the new. I also like to change my oil when it’s hot - usually immediately after I’ve driven around long enough for the thermostat to open. This mixes up the sludge and crap into a suspension in the oil, and the trick is to drain this out before the sludge settles back down to the bottom of the sump. If the old oil is really gacky, then adding some flushing compound, or even an intermediate oil change of flushing oil, will loosen up the sticky crud.
It’s always best to use a new sealing washer on the sump plug, and this plug only needs to be tightened to a low torque; IIRC, about 1/3 the torque of a wheel nut, and only slightly more than a spark plug.
- I consider my sump fully drained when the stream of oil from the sump reduces to slow drips. This takes longer than you’d think.
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- As far as recycling the used oil–you may want to verify first that there is somewhere around that will do this cheaply or for free. When all the little oil-change speed shops came to my town some years ago they all would take used oil for free. Now most have signs saying that they won’t accept it at all; the reason being that too many people would end up using paint cans and contaminating the oil with paint thinners and whatnot.
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…More than likely there is someplace that you can PAY to take your old oil, but if your total costs even approach the price of having it changed at the speedy shop anyway, it’s tough to argue that you gain much by doing it yourself.
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Also, about pre-filling the filter… you might as well fill the filter THROUGH the filtering element, rather than through the big hole in the middle. That way you will be sticking filtered oil in. Sometimes even new oil has enough particulate matter that the filter will capture some of it.
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- The reason that you do this is that doing so helps prevent the new gasket from sticking to the engine block and filter–which can make removal a real bitch next time you need to do it. You can apply some oil to both sides of the gasket, becuase the filter has two circular metal ridges that stick up and traps the gasket in place anyway–oiling the gasket won’t cause it to “slip out” in any way.
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…Unless, that is, you try to use two gaskets. Often when you take the old filter off, the gasket will stick to the engine block, and you spin the new filter on thinking everything’s okay–but the metal ridge on the filter isn’t tall enough to hold in TWO gaskets–so (as someone else has said) when you start the car and rev the engine a bit, the “top” gasket will blow out, oil sprays everywhere and then foul language, soiled pavement and lateness-for-important-matters ensues.
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I recommend getting ramps & a real filter wrench, and avoiding the screwdriver method.
My first car was a new 1979 Mercury Capri Turbo. My previous car was a 1968 Ford Torino wagon which was so easy to work on it is funny. I would reach in from the top to change the filter. So I figure this should be easy.
I decided to do my own oil change, though I didn’t have ramps. On the Capri, there was so much crap jammed into the engine compartment that there was very little room to work the filter. I made the mistake of draining the oil first, then tackling the filter. I could not get the filter off with the wrench, when a friend suggested the screwdriver method (SM). For the unitiated, the SM involves poking a long screwdriver all the way through the filter and then using it as a handle to turn it. Well, without the car on ramps, I still didn’t have enough space to get any leverage. So here I am with a car with no oil and holes in the filter. I had to have it towed to a garage, where the mechanic put it on the lift and twisted the filter off using a wrench with next to no effort.
I bought ramps and thereafter had no problem.
[household hint]For the pavement buy a bag of quality catbox litter. Pour some on the spot and scrub with a broom or stiff brush. Works like a charm.[/household hint]
Aye, kitty litter is too good for my cats. They have to use the neighbours’ gardens, while a bag of perfectly good catlitter sits just inside my garage door, ready to be rushed to an oil spill. Oil + asphalt drive = dissolved asphalt drive.
Pumping out your old engine oil??? Maybe your engine is unique or maybe there’s an OCD issue at hand 
, but I can’t believe that pumping out your engine is going to extract much oil from the average car, certainly not to justify the expenditure on a $40 pump. Unless you’re talking about getting the oil out **faster.[/b[ If so, my dumb.
Consumer Reports, maybe 15 years ago tested various oil brands and found significant differences in their properties. They stopped because the cost of these tests were prohibitive, they claimed. I’m not sure going with the cheapest possible brand is the smartest play. Do you have information we don’t?
A tube goes down the dipstick hole and reaches to the bottom of the pan. I would say 95+% of the oil can be removed this way. I don’t understand why you think you can’t get much oil out by this method.
As it turns out, it’s slower than draining from the drain plug, as the extractor tube has to be thin enough to fit easily inside the dipstick tube. It’s smallish diameter limits its flow rate. The advantages to this method are the convenience of not having to get under the car (or raise it) and staying a lot cleaner.
I believe by the “cheapest oil change**” he’s referring to the basic no-frills service, not to cheap oil.
Agree. But I always drain the oil by removing the drain plug. The reason is that the oil drain plugs on our vehicles contain a magnet, and the amount of fine, steel powder clinging to the magnet gives me an indication of wear.
And another thing: I clean the powder off the magnet at each oil change. If I pumped out the oil via the dipstick tube, wouldn’t the powder accumulate on the magnet, thus making it less effective at removing steel powder?
Actually, he said:
"Say “I want your cheapest oil change.” Refuse the offer to upgrade from their house brand Supertech oil…"
Re: your earlier objection, I meant to say, “I can’t believe that using a suctioning device is going to suction out much additional oil from your car.” As in: much above and beyond the conventional drain-the-oil-pan technique, unless this is a speed issue, which seems unlikely.
But you still have to get under the car to change the filter. Aside from a Subaru that I used to have that put the filter in a place where you might be able to reach down from above and change it, they’re usually under the engine.
Correct. It’s a bit slower to pump the oil out than to let it drain, for the reason that Gary T explained. However, it’s still pretty quick, and less messy. And, you actually get slightly more of the oil out of the engine: those on another board who have fastidiously measured this extracted some fraction of a quart more using a topside pump rather than a drain. Again, this may vary from one vehicle to another.
I don’t use ramps.
I just ride one side of my car up on the curb: this lets me have enough room to scoot under the car.
Also, on transversely mounted engines, this leans the car to the oilpan side, thus allowing me to get that much more oil out.
As an aside, if your filter screws up from the bottom instead of down from the top or is on an angle, you can fill the filter with oil and not spill it when you screw it in.
This will circulate oil through your engine faster at start-up than if the filter was dry.
People say I’m anal for doing that. I also jump the starter solinoid and crank the engine 'till I get oil pressure…that way it doesn’t have to support combustion loads without oil.
About one time of the rocket scientists stripping the plug because they can’t/won’t replace a crush washer and DIY suddenly becomes “worth it” Also I get to avoid fram garbage filters this way.
At a technical conference a while backt they showed us a presentation on oil quality.
The test consisted of two indentical engines. They filled one with the correct weight SJ grade oil (what the car maker called for). They filled the other engine with the correct weight SA grade oil (SA is still available).
They then ran the engine for 210 hours. Or I should say they tried to run the engines for 210 hours. The engine with SA blew up at 168 hours, due to the inferior oil. The pictures of the engine parts side by side from both engines was enlightening to say the least.
As I said in my first post in this thread, use the weight and grade of oil recomonded by your car maker. You do not know more about the engine than the people that designed it.
Oh and
Have you got a cite that supports this? I would love to see what oil company sells an oil product that has particulate matter in it.