Do-it-yourself oil change

Factual Questions
1

After getting taken at a Jiffy Lube for a $40 oil change and harassed for multiple add-ons (air filter, wipers, etc.) I’ve decided it’s about time I learn how to change the oil myself.
When I was single, living in an apartment and working odd hours it was easy if not necessary to go get a $9.99 deal on a Tuesday morning and not be in a hurry.
Times change and now that I have the location (own garage), 2 cars, and time is tight working 9-5 M-F, I want to do it myself.

So what do I need to know?
I can get oil and filters cheap everywhere. Besides a drain pan, funnel, and a place to dispose of my oil what else do I need to know?

2

That’s pretty much it if you know where the drain plug is and how to take the oil filter out. The one thing that I was taught is to put a coating of the new oil around the seal on the new oil filter with your finger…or someone elses finger. I don’t know if that’s a must do though.

I think any auto supply store is required to accept your used oil for free as long as it’s in a proper container.

good luck.

3

I have done this many times. I have also changed my own brakes, but that’s another post.

Ok, first you will need TIME, especially if you haven’t done this before. Figure about a good hour if it’s your virgin attempt.

Secure the following:
big-ass pan to catch oil
funnel
lots of newspapers
4 quarts or so of replacement oil, of the proper type (consult car manual or call dealership)
clothes you do not care about
a lot of paper towels
A filter remover/wrench
new oil filter
new air filter (if you’re under there, might as well go for the gold)
band-aids for scraped knuckles
cursing ability
Then go to http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/diy_kits/article/0,2019,DIY_13787_2277904,00.html for a step-by-step with pictures. I’m feeling too lazy to type it all. Basically, put pan under car, open valve, drain oil, replace filter, REPLACE VALVE TIGHTLY, fill with new oil, dispose of used oil, put crap away.

4

I used too do it myself but I’ve found that its not worth the effort…I’d rather take it to Jiffy Lube (or something like that). Its a dirty messy job, and they will even lub the undercarrage, check the other fluids and wipers and such…all of which adds expense and more mess if you are going to do it yourself.

Oil filters are sometimes hard to get too and you need a filter wrench (unless you plan on using the screw driver method…I don’t recommend it unless you REALLY like to get messy). When you remove the oil plug make damn sure you have the correct sized tool and you don’t strip it…or next time it will be a major bitch to remove. Find a good recycling center to take the old oil too and make sure you don’t spill any on the ground. Not only is the stuff messy, it hangs around forever and gets into your ground water. It takes about an hour to do yourself including clean up…if you are just changing the oil and not doing all the other stuff.

I’ll second the ‘good luck’. :stuck_out_tongue:

-XT

5

Make sure you have a good socket wrench that fits your drain plug well. It’s probably going to be torqued on pretty hard if you have been having it done at a shop, so you need a socket wrench with a long handle. Don’t even bother trying to loosen it with an adjustable wrench or a box wrench, you will only succeed in bunging the corners off.

Be sure to have the pan in place before you start removing the plug. Be careful if you have run the engine recently, as the oil will be very hot when the drain plug comes out.

Buy a good quality oil filter wrench that is sized for the filter on your car. They come in different sizes, and look like a handle with a metal strap that fits around the filter so you can loosen it easily. Some people just drive a screwdriver into the old filter and use that to twist it off, but I find that brutish.

Make sure you replace the filter before you add the oil. You would be surprised how many people forget, and have oil draining onto the floor from the open filter fitting.

Add a schmeer of oil to the rubber gasket of the new filter before you replace it, it will improve the seal. Be careful not to cross thread the filter. Hand tighten it, then give it just a nudge more with the filter wrench. Too much will crush the new filter.

Replace the drain plug, be careful not to cross thread it.

Add the oil in the quantity specified in your owners manual, which will usually specify one amount if you replaced the filter, and another if you didn’t (usually about a quart difference).

6

Heh. I have just the opposite experience; it’s easier, faster, and (would be[sup]*[/sup]) cheaper to do it myself than take it to the Oil Change Rocket Scientist Specialists, and I don’t have to worry that they haven’t actually torqued the drain plug back in properly or accidentially filled the pan with 40 weight oil. But then, I drive a Subaru, where the filter and drain plug are readily accessable without ramps. It’s literally about a five minute process and it’s the same on every Subaru.

Now, the Chevy Corsica I used to drive–that thing was a nightmare to change oil on. And the former girlfriend’s Saturn was no great pleasure, either.

Anyway, be aware of a few things in addition to what has already been stated:
[ul]
[li]When you are ready to replace the drain plug, clean the threads with a rag, get it started by hand to make sure it doesn’t crossthread, and torque it up properly.[/li][li]You can generally remove a correctly-installed filter without a wrench just by wrapping duct tape around the top. Some of the new Fram filters now come with a roughened strip just for this purpose.[/li][li]When installing the new filter, fill it with oil (if it sits upright), lube the base gasket with a skim of oil, and install it hand tight; don’t use the wrench unless you have really weak grip strength.[/li][li]Pour the remaining oil in the fill tube being careful not to overfill (I like to line the bottles up to keep count), screw on the cap, start the engine and let it run for about thirty seconds while looking for leaks. [/li][li]Wah-la. You’re an oil change genius.[/li][/ul]

Stranger

[sup]*[/sup]I use or make a synthetic blend and a premium (K&N) filter, so what I save in doing it myself I spend on better oil and filter.

7

You will need.

Jack(not the emergency jack you get with the car) + jackstands or Ramps.
Cardboard box.
Funnel
New Oil filter
Oil filter wrench.
New Oil pan crush washer.(the washer that goes between the drain bolt and the pan)
Oil pan (get the big one)
Fast orange hand cleaner.

jack up the car using the tow hook and then secure on jackstands, or run it up on ramps.

place oil pan under the drain pan with cardboard underneath that and around to catch splatter. Remember the fluid will initially flow and land about a half foot from the drain plug but will eventually slow to a trickle straight down. I like to let mine drain for a good 10ish minutes or so. Coat the new crush washer in new oil with your finger, then put it on the drain bolt plug which you’ve wipeed off with a paper towel and tighten. If you’re really anal like me I tighten it to spec(36 foot/lb on my car) with a torque wrench.

Move the oil pan + cardboard under the oil filter and screw it loose with your hand if you can. If not, use the filter wrench. I let mine drain for about 10 minutes or so.
Meanwhile take the new filter and fill it about 1/4 way with new oil and dip your finger and smear oil along the seal. Screw the new filter on as tight as you can with your hand then use the filter wrench to tighten it another 1/2 turn or so. You do NOT want to overtighten it.

Take the funnel and add oil into the engine. The specified amount and type should be somewhere in your engine compartment. Under the hood or on the fuse box are the usual places I believe.

Let the oil settle (5 minutes) and check the fluid by taking the dipstick and pulling it out, wiping it off, putting it back in, then pulling it out again. It should be between the two marks. Bottom mark being minimum top mark being full. It’s about 1L to go between the 2 marks.

If the fluids good then idle the engine for a little while to warm up the oil then take her for a spin.

8

Just use a bit of plain old sandpaper or one of those “jar lid remover” pads (it’s a sticky rubber pad). You’ve probably got one or the other sitting around already.

I used to change my own oil and it was a snap (1989 Toyota Celica). There wasn’t a lot of ground clearance but that was about the biggest problem. My local curbside recycling would also take used motor oil so disposal wasn’t a problem, just had to pour it into a plastic milk jug and leave it out.

It’s worth doing just to get comfortable with some basic car maintenance. I don’t do it myself any more because I can go a long time between oil changes (I drive very little) and having them check the other stuff (chassis lube and whatnot) is nice.

9

Just one point in addition to the advice already given.
After filling up with oil to the mark on the dipstick, run the engine - the oil warning light will glow for a few seconds for a minute, stop it, wait a few minutes and recheck/refill, the level will have dropped slightly/a lot, depending on your engine.

10

Just one point in addition to the advice already given.
After filling up with oil to the mark on the dipstick, run the engine - the oil warning light will glow for a few seconds - for a minute, stop it, wait a few minutes and recheck/refill, the level will have dropped slightly/a lot, depending on your engine.

11

Oops, sorry. Slow tonight.

12

One item I’d reccomend:
Wheel chocks to prevent it from rolling while you’re under there, sliding off the jack, and killing you.

Another item to consider, if you’re willing to trust your vehicle to low-skill technicians rather than DIYing:
Wal-Mart. Go on a day when you need to shop. Take the car to the tire and lube express. Say “I want your cheapest oil change.” Refuse the offer to upgrade from their house brand Supertech oil, and refuse to upgrade to the “15-point inspection” oil change. Do specify the viscosity of oil your manual recommends.
I was able to get out the door for under $15 with tax this way. Your local prices may vary, but it’s the cheapest oil change I’ve found in a while.
The big plus is that it wastes no time, assuming you need to go shopping for detergent, toilet paper, etc.
Their techs are sometimes little better than trained chimps, and do occasionally break things, but that is true of some locations of all oil change locations.
Personally, I take my car to a real garage and have a real mechanic who knows his business do my preventive maintenance. It costs more, but I have no faith in the ability of a quick-lube technician to find serious problems, especially when all he appears to be able to upsell me into is worthless crap. I’d rather have a guy who can actually overhaul the engine look at it and find problems early. I only have 3 or 4 oil changes per year with my 5,000 mile intervals, and the added cost isn’t too great.

13

Whether or not this is worthwhile depends on many things, including your type of car and your affinity (or aversion) to do-it-yourself tasks and dirt.

I once owned a Nissan Sentra. It had fairly good ground clearance, so I could easily get under the car without jacking it up. It also had a fairly simple engine, transmission, and suspension, so I could actually see the drain plug. Likewise, the oil filter was easy to see.

In addition, I’m an extreme do-it-yourself (DIY) person by nature. I repair my own bicycles and motorcycle, I sharpen my own skis, I build furniture, I’ve built my own computers…You get the picture.

If this describes your situation, then go for it. More comments:

You can get good oil for $2.50/quart; less if you shop around. Filters are cheap.

My Pep Boys carries a large oil can/drain pan. Standing on end, it looks like a big black plastic fuel can. Looking at it, you notice that one side is dished in, with a white plastic plug in the center. You lay the can on its side with the plug up, remove the plug, and voila! A drain pan that you can then plug up and store.

You can also find a funnel with a large end that accepts the rectangular quart oil cans, and has a flexible, extendable “snout”. This is really great for putting oil into a hard-to-reach inlet.

You may find you need some sort of “wrench” to remove a tight oil filter. Pep Boys has that too. They even have those little wheeled dollies you can lie on as you go under the car, and an oil-absorbing mat to catch spills.

You should consider getting a hex nut socket and ratcheting wrench to remove the oil drain plug. That’s what I do; saves a lot of grief.

Dispose of the oil properly! Depending on what state you’re in, you can take it to any garage that will accept it. In California, service centers are required by law to accept used oil. I take mine to Jiffy Lube (kinda ironical, isn’t it?)

Having said this, I don’t change the oil in my Durango myself, only my motorcycle. The Durango is a mess to get under and the engine is huge. Besides, I drive it only rarely, so I haven’t changed the oil that much. I whip into JL and have them fuss with it for me.

My motorcycle is a bitch to change. Removing the oil is pretty easy, but to remove the oil filter I have to first drain the oil and take off the filter cover, conveniently located at the very bottom of the motor. Inevitably I get warm oil all over my hands. Then I have to use a special oil filter wrench to pull the filter. I ride the bike a lot, so I change the oil every couple of months. :smack:

14

Put a filter on just one time without lubing the gasket with oil or grease. You WILL remember to lube the next one.

Also some service stations will accept used oil in closed/proper containers

15

I drive a VW diesel, which requires fully synthetic oil. This is rather more expensive to begin with, and the shop multiplies that and passes it on to the customer. Result: it is well worth my while to buy my own oil, even if I have a shop do the actual oil and filter change.

Since I’m already buying the oil myself, I’m partway there. I took the next step, and bought a Pela 6000 oil extractor (there are similar brands such as Topsider, Oilboy, etc) for $40. I insert a long tube into the dipstick hole, pump the Pela like a bicycle pump to create negative pressure, and watch the oil get sucked out of the engine.

In 10-15 minutes (if it’s hot), it’s sucked all the oil out of the tank. During that time, I unscrew my filter with a latex gloved hand (no tool needed) and put it in a ziplock bag. I then suck any oil remnants from the filter housing, and put a new filter in place. I disassemble the Pela tubing, draining most into the globe-shaped tank. Then I pour ~4 quarts into the engine, and I’m done. Total time: 20 minutes or so, and no need to crawl under the car.

At some point in the next several days, I put the translucent globe on the passenger floor, and bring it by a lube shop to pour into their used oil.

I think this is a great way to go, but most of the benefits evaporate if your filter is going to drip a lot when removed, or must be accessed from below. So your car model is critical.

16

When you remove the filter make sure the gasket comes with it. Having two gaskets in place makes for a leak. This is a mistake you only make once. Makes one big mess.

17

God damn fat fingers, I hit the wrong key and lost a great post. :smack:
Anyway just to clarify a few posts.
First off and most important, do no climb under your car while it is supported by a jack, any jack. I don’t care if you just bought a brand new jack and paid $300 for it, do not climb under a car supported only by a jack. This is an excellent way to win your very own Darwin Award. I don’t care if you have done it an 1,000 times, number 1001 might not be your lucky number.
Only climb under the car if it is on ramps, or jackstands. Once the car is on ramps or jackstands, before you climb under grab the front of the car, and shake, wiggle push, pull and do everything in your power to make it fall off the stands/ ramps. If it refuses to fall despite your best efforts then and only then is it safe to climb under. $40 bucks is not worth your life.
Next, you will need a filter wrench for almost every filter you will ever encounter (unless you have a grip like Migilla Gorilla) But a good filter wrench. go crazy and buy the $10 dollar one, because you will find that the $2 wrench either just slips and never grips, or just destroys the filter without removing it. The mear fact that you won’t go crazy and have a stroke trying to remove a filter with that cheap ass wrench is worth the $8.
when you do get the filter off it is very very important to make sure the old rubber gasket came off with the filter, and did not stick to the block. If this happens and you install the new filter over the top of the old gasket, it will blow out sooner or later, and you may then need a new engine. Also before installing the new filter wipe the block face down with a clean rag. Oil the filer gasket with clean engine oil. Hand tighten only.

and

:smack: :smack: NO! NO! NO!
DO NOT USE A WRENCH TO INSTALL A FILTER. I don’t care how weak your grip strength is, if you can screw a lid on a jar of peanut butter, you can install a filter. (and if you can’t screw on a peanut butter jar lid, pay the $40 bucks) If you use a filter wrench to screw the filter on 1/2 turn past hand tight, then all I can say is good luck when your next oil change rolls around. I have had lots of DIYers bring me their 2nd oil change when they could not remove the filter after using a wrench on the first one. Hand tight only.
Do not use a screwdriver to remove the filter unless A) there is no other choice or B) you want your driveway to look like the Exxon Valdez was parked there. Oil filters are a portal to some type of parallel universe. The look like they hold a pint or so of oil, but I swear they will drain 5 gallons on the floor.
Unless your filter is straight up and down, I do not suggest filling the filter. If you do and the filter mounts on the side of the engine, your arm will get all that nice fresh oil all over it. You arm will now look like the Exxon Valdez was parked on it. Once you start the engine, the oil pump will fill it up in a couple of seconds. If you are paranoid about the 2-3 seconds it take to fill the filter, disable the fuel pump (fuse or relay) and crank the car until the oil light goes out then start it.
You will need the correct tool to remove the drain plug, on some cars this might be a special service tool (really!) or a socket or wrench. A 6" cresent wrench is not the correct tool for any car. I would suggest that if you have to buy a tool for this get a 6 point socket, and box wrench will also work excellently. If you find the plug has rounded corners from prior removal attempts, buy a new one. Sometimes the seal around the plug will need to be changed.
A couple of words about oil, read your owners manual and get the oil weight and grade specified. If your car calls for 10W-30 SJ oil then do not use 20W-50 SF oil. You do not know more about the engine that the people that designed it. Read the top of the can Here is a handy guide. Contary to what Harmonix posted, I don’t think I have ever seen a car that had oil change quanties posted under the hood on any label. Read your owner’s manual, or get a shop manual.
Good luck!

18

Some small points:

The reason I prefer changing my own oil is that I know it gets done right. I don’t have a lot of trust in the recommendations of oil lube places for repairs they say I need… or even worst, I fear that one might actually damage a part deliberately so that I would need to have it repaired.

Always check the oil level dipstick on level ground, before running the car or after it has been sitting for a while.

If you plan to change it yourself from now on, invest in an oil filter wrench cap, a good one anyways. The metal ones with a piece of stamped metal attached to it can break. The once piece plastic ones are good. Assuming you use the same brand/type of oil filter, you will simply use the same oil filter cap to take it off everytime.

Use a towel to wipe oil off of any parts under the car before and after you start to prevent anything from dripping into your eyeball.

Use the time while the oil is draining out to check the other fluids, parts of your car.

Look for 5 gallon jugs at walmart/kmart/target/etc. They might come out to be cheaper than buying by the quart.

once you do it a couple of times, you can get the time down to 15-20 mins for a full change and cleanup. Plus if you have a basic manual, you can check other things on your car while you are at it for necessary repairs or to check things that are wearing down. It’s not something easy to see or feel at first, but after a couple of times, you can notice what “normal” feels for parts in the front suspension/axles/brakes.

19

Every once in a while Rick and I disagree about something, just to keep ourselves on our toes. :slight_smile:

I agree with all he said except this: DO NOT USE A WRENCH TO INSTALL A FILTER. I don’t care how weak your grip strength is, if you can screw a lid on a jar of peanut butter, you can install a filter.

Volvo may have been smart enough to design filter access such that the above would apply, but I have run into a number of different engines where it is essentially impossible to get a decent grip on the filter with your hand. There is no way to get the filter tight enough without using a tool. It’s important to use a type of filter wrench that will not damage the filter (e.g. a strap type or cap type).

In the matter of how tight to get the filter, virtually all oil filters I have seen have tightening instructions on the filter and/or the box. Typcially it’s spin on gently until the filter gasket contacts its mounting pad, then turn an additional amount, generally from 2/3 to 1 turn (it varies with the filter manufacturer). I use a crayon to mark the filter so I can accurately know how far I turn it. I figure it’s hard to go wrong if you actually follow official instructions.

20

This is what my haynes manual says, but I defer to your experience.

??? i’ve seen it on every car my family owns. Mines on my airbox.