A friend of mine has a Chevy Malibu-and the front LH lower balljoint is worn out.
Thre fix? Replace the entire lower control arm.
This seems like a waste to me-why not just press out the bad joint, and put a new one in? A balljoint is a $20.00 item-a new control arm is $250.00!
Why not just replace the worn out part?
Another thing-do any cars have grease fittings anymore? I can’t remember anybody having the fron end joints greased.
On some vehicles, ball joints are designed to be separably replaceable. On some, they’re integral with the control arm and are not separably replaceable. It’s not a matter of what the mechanic wants to do, it’s a matter of how the part is made and what can or cannot be done.
While there are still some vehicles with some grease fittings, they’re pretty much a thing of the past. With modern materials and greases, a factory sealed item is likely to outlast the equivalent greasable item. One factor in this is that grease fittings are an entry point for contaminants.
Unrelated to the ball joints, but have you ever tried to check the transmission fluid on that Malibu?
It’s simple. Just drill a 1" diameter hole in the top of the case and stick your finger in. The level should be between the first and second knuckles. Wedge a super ball into the hole to plug it shut.
:eek::D:eek:
No, folks, don’t really do that. If you must check the level, I suggest taking it to a dealer or transmission shop. But if it’s not leaking, there’s really no need to check it.
sooooo… how do you flush it and refill the fluid?
I once cut a hole in the firewall to pull a cam out of a 2.0L Pinto. Stupid thing came out the back and I didn’t want to pull the head off. Hey, I was 16. I also cut a hole in a Maverick A/C fan case to remove the heater core. Too cheap to buy freon and didn’t want to wait all day on a vacuum pump to draw the system down. Cars were so much more fun to work on when I was a kid.
Tell me about it. I adored my 79 Scout. We had this brown box with wires that if the electrical system was fubar, until we could diagnose and repair it you hook it up between the battery and the distributor, flip a switch and the car would start … it essentially replaced all the old school electrical bits to let the vehicle run in an emergency. Unfortunately it didnt work on vehicles newer than something like 1984 [or whichever year in the beginning of the 80s when electrical systems got amazingly advanced so that it became very difficult to shade tree repair them :(]
“It’s a conspiracy, man! The MAN’s gonna shake you down and squeeze you out, man! A cool cat can’t fix anything on his own wheels no how no more, man! But, try the organic fuel, man, it’s like…wow, man!” :VW Bus: (read like the VW bus in “Cars”) 
The idea is, you don’t (sort of). Transmission fluid is not mentioned at all in the normal service schedule – it’s meant to be a “lifetime” item. However, a fluid and filter change is listed at every 50,000 miles in the severe service schedule.
As it turns out, a flush, or alternatively a filter change w/ drain and refill, is done the same as on previous designs except for the procedure to fill and check the level. Filling is simple enough – there’s a fill hole with cap at the top of the case. Checking is the pain. From underneath, a threaded plug is removed from a hole, and the fluid level needs to be even with the bottom of said hole (under proper conditions). But hey, they probably saved $8.39 per car by eliminating the dipstick and its tube.
I knew a guy who pretty much did that in the early 80’s with a Chevette. The inspection plug was stripped or stuck. I forget which. Inside the car, he lifted up the carpet and used a hole saw to put a big hole through the body. He then very carefully drilled a hole into the top of the transmission. Checked the level and filled through that hole. Kept a rubber cork in the hole. Checked to see the cork was still there on a regular basis. Ran the car for years like that.
When cash is tight you can be pretty creative when you need to be.
How do you drill into the transmission without leaving shavings inside? Or is it that they just sink to the bottom and don’t do much damage?
my 2000 Ford Econoline van upper and lower ball joints rusted out after 40,000 miles.
I found out when I bought shocks, tires, and requested an alignment. They couldn’t align it because the ball joints were shot.
It was $750 to replace the ball joints last summer. Nasty little surprise.
My owners manual schedule lists transmission service (filter, fluid) at 35,000. I had it done last summer after getting tires.
I’m not surprised to hear that the cheap crap sold today isn’t serviceable.
My van still uses the standard $10 headlight. I’ve heard new cars require an entire headlight assembly that costs $100. :rolleyes: Worthless crap.
If you use a good sharp bit in soft metal like aluminum and turn very sloowwwly, you get nice big long metal curly cue like shavings that you can capture before they fall through the hole. He did that and flushed afterwards just to be safe.
I’ve drilled holes like that and gotten one big continous metal “noodle” rather than shavings when I’ve done it right.
What Gary said. Most vehicles we see where I work have ball joints that can be serviced. Some don’t, and you have to do the control arm. It’s getting the same way with wheel bearings: more and more vehicles don’t have press in bearings and you have to replace the whole hub assembly, which is much more expensive.
I see this as an effort by auto mfgs. to make more profits on the sale of parts. Also, it cuts their inventory cost-the control arm incorporates three parts (the arm, the balljoint, and the bushing). Chevrolet stocks only one part, and amkes out by selling you the whole thing-rather than a $20.00 joint, or $5.00 bushing.
Good for GM, good for the dealer, bad for the owner.
How do they justify switching from a $10 headlight to a $100 headlight assembly?
Is that what you have to replace when the bulb burns out? I ask because I’ve had similar vehicles (not Toyotas) where the bulb was removed through the back of that assembly, and the only reason the assembly itself would need to be replaced was if it were damaged somehow.
Yes. They do replace ball joints. I just had the front end ball joints on my 2001 Honda replaced.
Wrong.
Wrong.
Right.
Folks, in the 60’s a headlight was the same thing as a headlight bulb (sealed beam w/ lens). Nowadays it’s not. If you’re talking about replacing a burned out bulb, it’s about ten bucks (more if it’s high discharge, but that’s a special case). You don’t replace a headlight assembly (housing and lens) because the light burned out. You only replace it if it’s been broken or the lens has badly clouded.
Maybe. Maybe not. An integral control arm/ball joint assembly can be lighter and sleeker than a separable assembly. Sometimes the priority is actually improving the design rather than screwing the customer.